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About Keebler750

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    Figuring out how to get my darn 2016 ****** *** to work in the mountains!

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  1. Keebler750

    Trail Tip #1...Don't Forget Your Brain

    Imagine how easy the fix would have been if manufacturers didn't make such vulnerable components in the first place!
  2. Keebler750

    Magura slave cylinder failure

    I have a 2018 FE501 as well. Bought it new less than 2 months ago. 56hrs on bike, 1600kms. Slave seal blew out on a trail and I had to ride home through two towns with stop signs, no clutch. It was ..... a good challenge? I'm getting a warranty part (the entire slave) but I think I'll get the aftermarket Oberon (CLU-1000) as well.
  3. Yep. That's how I did it, due to a broken fender that got caught by the knobbies on a jump landing. I did rewire the little LED Sicass license light sticky pad to fit under the tailpiece lip though.
  4. I did a full Carnivore diet for three weeks....meat ONLY, salt, fat and water. Went from 164lbs to 153lbs in one week. and stayed there. I'm 6ft tall. Was using this to test for suspected food allergies and planned to reintroduce various foods for testing. I felt fine and had good energy and strength didn't drop, but honestly it was boring to eat a salted and peppered plain steak and I love food too much to stick with such an extreme change. I have discovered I LOVE to eat a bowl of regular ground hamburger as a snack though..... pretty weird! LOL
  5. Factory Husky CD Repair Manual. It's.....less than perfect....
  6. I may have just discovered the explanation for the .400V TPS setting in the manual (haven't tested this yet) :
  7. I have a 2018 US 501 with a AUS map, FC boot and FMF can. Air injection on exhaust port plugged, and TB hole blocked. TPS tool (harness connection and my VOM) showed .567V and it smelled a little rich and ran a bit fuzzy, so I fiddled with settings. Went .547, .527, .507 and then went for what 'seems' to be factory setting in the manual (though it doesn't show proceedure or connections) of .400V. (I use the tool for TPS voltage set with key on, engine off?) Holy heck that last one backfired like crazy on decel. How/what is the stock proceedure for TPS setting? I left it at .510V for now and it seems to go like stink through the revs! I like the TPS tool 'cause I can always mod it. Oh...I'm at 4500ft ASL in the mountains, temp is 10C (50F) while doing this...
  8. Title pretty much says it. Does this stuff withstand those thin element under-grip heaters? I can't find any product info on the TB1501C Griplock adhesive.
  9. Keebler750

    Getting WOT easier?

    It seems he's saying that he has to turn his arm/wrist too far to get full throttle and still have decent arm position to control the bike. The 'standard' throttle tubes give great intitial throttle control at the expense of how far you have to turn it for full throttle. As I said, that's what quick turn throttles were designed for.
  10. I'm posting this to do a little brainstorming. Four or five times yesterday on loose rock/dirt or dusty hardpack I had some pretty wild moments on my '18 FE501 with the front locking up right in the initial weight transfer phase from On or Neutral Throttle. It seemed to lock as soon as I went to the brake, in pretty gnarly terrain and I was by myself, so.... :s Last night I had my nastiest 'almost crash' of my riding career of 36 years...I overcooked a corner entry and locked the front while headed for the trees on rolling/bumpy dusty hardpack. It crossed up and I was already falling over, at an angle. Apparently, I managed to let go of the brake and it stood back up and kept going. While it was fun....I'd rather not do that again. Any ideas for how to either fix it mechanically, or retrain my brain or index finger would be REALLY appreciated. Brakes are stock, including the sintered pads. The engagement is REALLY touchy. I've noticed what I think is a low, loose spoke resonance sometimes while braking, but I don't think that's affecting this particular issue. Tires are good condition Scorpion Pro's on TuBliss at 9psi front, 6 rear. Now, I've upped the pace recently to the point I may be getting ahead of myself skill-wise offroad, and I'm aware that snapping the brakes on before the weight transfers can overwhelm the system and the contact patch. And I'd say it's possible that's what I'm doing. So, assuming that's something I should look at, what else could be addressed to make a difference in that transition phase? What can I look at to reduce grabby brakes? What technique changes can help me transition from pavement (and roadracing) to offroad? Do you all plant the front end before braking hard? What about brake lever adjustment and where the finger has the best sensitivity/least chance of brake-overuse? What about lever angle to the bars for sitting and standing? Can low speed damping (comp front and rebound rear) affect weight transfer enough to affect braking? I spend a fair bit of time "reading" terrain for traction, as I'm sure we all do. Is there a way to think this through? Etc, etc. What can I do to NOT end up in the trees or rocks at the side of the trail?
  11. Keebler750

    Getting WOT easier?

    This is funny and I can't tell if it's a troll. You could mount the throttle upside down and it would still start opening from where your initial hand position was...! This problem that we all have is why they invented quick turn throttle cams.
  12. That's a gearing issue.
  13. Yeah, I was going over low roots (1 - 3") and the video from the side view show the front wheel up under the fender with nothing but air under the tire! I was a little shocked!
  14. That's kind of the ideas I'm thinking about, but I'm NOT saying it's something to aim for yet, I'm just wondering about it. Also, many people may talk about suspension and comfort, but the reason suspension exists in any motorsports context is TRACTION - keeping the wheels connected to the ground more. It can be measured or imagine as the weight on the contact patch and it comes down to a percentage of travel time that the contact patch has optimum conditions....raise the percentage, and you'll go faster. The 'spikes' you're talking about on compression can actually break traction. Yeah, I suppose being bucked off the bike is a lack of traction issue too...while you're airborne...
  15. ? Not really sure what you're trying to say, Mog...? Compression damping controls how the chassis settles onto the unsprung mass in a g-out or jump landing, and how far the unsprung mass travels UP against the chassis after a sharp hit that accelerates that mass. Too much compression damping will both lift the chassis and overload the contact patch (less traction), as well as deflect and feel harsh. Too little compression damping will allow the wheel to accelerate upward and over-travel due to inertia, causing the contact patch to unload as you get air under the tire. I have a video I took over roots in which 3" bumps where causing 9" of suspension travel. It was clear that the wheel was over-traveling upward. Compression is also very much an adjustable travel limiter and can dial in total suspension travel for a given hit. I tend to lean as much toward stiffer springs in this case, but that can cause other issues. Also, interestingly, spring rates affect compression damping since stiffer springs effectively slow down the S=D/t equation for a given bump, and a too soft spring forces us to use travel more quickly and can show up as harsh C Damping! ...So, I've been musing about whether bleeding off the bump energy with compression could mean less spring force for the rebound to have to deal with, and what that might do when looking at the overall balance of compromises we deal with. Hence the weird muse....