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About ToolmanJohn

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    2017 Beta Xtrainer 300 FIRST ever dirt bike

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  1. ToolmanJohn

    All Ball Bearings installation

    Right about the bearing. Never pound the inner race when installing the bearing into a press fit bore, don't grease it either, until it's installed (use motor oil). Freezing the bearing first is good advice. It will get microscopically smaller (shrink) in diameter. And heating the bore might cause it to grow in diameter, making installation easier.
  2. 1066 miles, 102 hrs (yeah a bit of road in there....), OI still works, no issues to report. Not removing it, or even thinking it. Much too convenient. I will say though it is a bit of a pain to have to remove the oil line from the barb fitting each time I remove the carb for cleaning or other service. I worry about the strength of the barb. Next time I have the carb off, I'll remove the rubber boot in front of the reed assembly, and see if it's a threaded brass component and buy a spare. On the Xtrainer parts catalog it is shown as the "Inlet Duct" and the brass nozzle is part of it as a unit.
  3. ToolmanJohn

    beta xtrainer 300 power

    Nice. For myself, the bike choice was all about seat height, power, and street legal.
  4. ToolmanJohn

    beta xtrainer 300 power

    Did WEX ever get his XT? Happy with it? Curious.
  5. ToolmanJohn

    Xtrainer -idling, stalls pointed downhill DRIVEWAY!!

    Float height is too low, meaning not enough fuel in the carb bowl, and the float needle valve is killing fuel supply? My driveway isn't crazy steep either. About 12 inches rise over 20 feet. So it was a surprise it did it a few times as I tried to figure out what the heck was going on.
  6. So something funny strange. When I had the Xtrainer pointed slightly up-grade on my drvieway (it's about 5 degrees uphill from street to garage door) it is idling fine when warmed up. But as soon as I roll it back and turn to face down the driveway, it stalls. Boink. Did it twice to verify. Drove onto street, turned back into driveway rode up to garage door, no prpblem idling. Roll backwards ad turn around. Boink, stalled. It also tried to stll when pointed uphill and leaning the bike onto the stand while the engine was running. Ok I'm thinking float? Is there anything else it possibly could be? Elevation 400 feet-ish, temps near 70 degrees F. Also I was noticing a high hanging idle after warmed up, and RPM's would only drop down if I let out the clutch a bit at standstill, but I didn't play with the air screw, I was thinking it odd as hell that it would stall like that. pj-38 mj-160 needle N1EI clip position 2 These are the BEta chart settings.
  7. ToolmanJohn

    Anyone lowered their beta dual sport?

    I don't know which is best, stock suspension tuned, or BYOB upgrades. BUT you could ask the suspension tuner which is best, for a start. As far as I can tell, almost nobody rides there off road bike with a stock setup. Seems like the overwhelming majority of guys get the forks and shock tuned for their weight and riding conditions/skills. Is a fully tuned and prepped OE suspension BETTER than the top tier Beta factory BYOB upgrade? I don't know if anyone can answer that. But if your wallet is fat, get top of the line, and then a pro tune! Best of both! But then you can never complain or blame the suspension while riding badly so be careful!! LOL!!! It might be best to keep it stock and have something to blame...yeah I like that idea....Good luck. I am no help...
  8. ToolmanJohn

    Anyone lowered their beta dual sport?

    I recommend if you are marginally close to the seat height you want, but would like it lowered, buy the lowered seat concepts seat FIRST. Try it out. If just an inch lower works, then great. If you do want to lower the suspension, I recommend a suspension drop done on the STOCK suspension by a tuner who will properly spring and revalve it. It won't cost much more than buying the Beta suspension lowering kit, and it WILL work better then the Beta stock lowering kit. The Beta kits cost a lot for what you get.
  9. You won't win this one. The are those who have had NO ISSUES (yet), INCLUDING myself, we just fill the oil tank, fill gas tank, and ride. I don't worry about oil ratios. Or carrying oil. And I can fill at a station. And not premix in my 5 gallon fuel can either (just PRI-G in the fuel). For those who passionately believe that removing the OI is the only smart thing to do, they cannot be convinced anyway, they believe (probably rightly) that the OI system will EVENTUALLY fail at some time. Maybe 200 hours, 500 hours, 1000 hours? What's the expected life cycle of the OI pump? What does Beta say about it? I dunno. Maybe there is an OI pump replacement interval? Is it designed to last "life of the engine". What is the life of an engine? I dunno. As long as it works I'm happy. If when it fails, so be it, it should oil at max rate if it does fail and cause a warning light, maybe. So no need to try and convince people that the OI is great, and no need to try and convince others that OI is not great. Choose how to proceed. Use it, or remove it. Whichever. Ride!!
  10. A good visual to see how it fills, is to remove the right side plastic cover. This exposes the oil tank, and you can see how it fills. Even when the bike is on the side stand if you slowly fill it to nearly the top of the fill tube (1/2 inch away from lip) the tank gets full. There is an air vent tube snaked behind the tank under the rear fender, just behind the two visible screws when the seat is removed. This allows the tank to fill completely. Only a small air pocket is left in the very top of the tank. You are in luck. I am in almost done installing a bunch of new stuff. The side panel is off. And it's raining outside,and I have time on my hands. Her's some pictures.
  11. Inspect the TPS (Throttle Position Sensor). There is a paint stripe on both the throttle body and the sensor, they should line up. The only other things I can think off are partially blocked oil line (debris in line, somehow dirt entered in the tank) or a solenoid pump that is not behaving correctly. The pump may need to be disassembled and cleaned (carb cleaner). See the 4:15 time stamp for info about the pump on Barrys vid. My XT also smokes, but only on a cold start, and also wide open throttle (rare for me to do it except on road sections). I don't know precisely how much oil I use. I just top off the oil tank after every ride and call it a good ride. I good test would be to siphon the oil injection tank empty to see if the low lever tank warning illuminates correctly, or just disconnect the tank sensor electrical connector (it's a pain to access if the connector is buried under other stuff).
  12. ToolmanJohn

    Xtrainer Kill Switch Question

    My 2017 has the push button ON-OFF. Pushed in it's off and stays off, no power for starting. Push the button and it releases out, and it remains ON. I've been playing with an idea for replacing it with mil-spec version that's durable, water proof, and more compact. What you're describing on the 2018 is called a Momentary OFF-ON switch ( MOM OFF-ON or ON-MOM OFF).
  13. ToolmanJohn

    What size OEM sprockets came on '17 Xtrainer?

    Head over to the support page on Beta USA website and download all the different manuals, owners manual, fork manual, engine manual. There is a blown up parts diagram for every component of the motorcycle in one of them too.
  14. ToolmanJohn

    Graphics - Why so expensive for Decals?

    Low demand?
  15. Looking online at the wares of several different graphics companies, including the OE stuff and also some custom stuff. Really, why do these decals cost so much? I'm seeing a general pricing range near $250, for decals... It's not the decal material or the printing. Is it the machine that cuts them? I thought all this stuff was easy to produce.