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Mavric_Bass

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About Mavric_Bass

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  1. All good the only reason I know is I also kicked and twisted the throttle and after many flooding’s and getting suck out on trails and getting frustrated I finally got shown the process from the local Honda dealer and I too was very red faced and embarrassed when the service tech taught me ........ as they say you are never to old or to proud too learn!! :-)
  2. Firstly the OP’s bike and your bike being newer that 09 should both be fuel injected (EFI) so twisting the throttle (priming) does absolutely nothing. On fuel injected crf250r’s the starting procedure is this: 1. Make sure there is sufficient fuel in the the tank 2. If the bike is dead cold (first start after a long while) you need to use the cold start(choke but not really a choke bc of EFI but anyway) it is a yellow pull knob, it will be located on the left side under the main part of the frame inline with your inner thigh when seated. 3. You will need at least three good kicks to prime the fuel pump and get enough power/electric charge for all the electronics your kill switch light should give a brief flicker when the system is ready 4. The forth and fifth kicks and all subsequent kicks should be done lining up just past TDC as they are your starting kicks. 5. At this point DO NOT TOUCH THE THROTTLE!!EFI is preset and will regulate the air/fuel mixture. If you twist the throttle at this point it will muck up the sequence and likely flood. 6. After three or so kicks (6 total now with prime kicks) if all is good bike should be running and the kill switch lights should be glowing bright and constant. The bike will be idling high at this point and if there are no faults in the EFI computer the kill switch light will go out. 7. Let bike idle for 2mins or so. 8. If bike is warm enough push cold start knob back in and proceed to having a great ride! Your welcome.
  3. Cheers plugeye yeah mine is not a cush drive so was hopeful for a smaller rear sprocket seeing as I am running a 17” rear. Hopefully I can source one in NZ What brand is yours? Might look online if I can’t one
  4. Excellent thanks for that what it your top speed?
  5. Anyone know the standard tooth count of DR350se front and rear sprocket? I bought a DiD standard sprocket and chain kit but the ratio is way too close at a 110kph the engine is nearing valve float. I expected it to be closer as I put 17” sumo rim on the back and 110/90-17 tyre Currently the sprockets are 14 front and 42 rear Any info on sprocket combinations that others are using would be appreciated Cheers
  6. Update: I took the DR350 for a ride last night! Whoohoo so I connected the green/red wire to the black/white and there was no issue with the CDI It shifted perfectly thanks Plugeye for pointing me in the right direction!
  7. Ok so I checked out the DR650 wiring diagram and sure enough plugeye is right the diode is on there! Yay! However the wire color is still different but geez it’s close enough so I am going to assume it is the Side stand switch wire and by the looks of it you just have to connect it to the black with white trace to complete its circuit. So fingers crossed it works as I am not looking forward to popping a CDI!
  8. I will check the DR650 wiring diagram out might have a clue to what the wire is cheers for the lead plugeye I never thought to check out other models!
  9. Hi guy I bought this 1999 DR350 not “S” or “SE” just a DR350 for $700. It is a standard road going model not a dirt to road conversion. I am from New Zealand and here we import JDM ( Japanese Domestic Model) vehicles which is what this DR350 is. My problem is the wiring has been hacked and chopped as it was a road bike originally that was registered and plated but was converted to dirt (idiot who I bought it off) So I am putting it back to stock I have undone the stupidity but cannot figure out the last wire which is a green wire with red trace which goes to the CDI and to a diode and it has a three way joiner but the wire had been snipped and taped. I have searched through all the wiring diagrams but can’t find it as they are all US/Canada and UK diagrams and for the S and SE which all have a battery circuit and tachometer where my one doesn’t. I suspect it is a kick stand switch but I would like the Gurus here to confirm this and if it is which is the best way bypass it. The blue wires on the end of the Diode go to the neutral switch which brings me to my last problem the bike cuts out when moved out of neutral with clutch in. Again leading me to believe that the mystery wire is for a kick stand switch. Any knowledge that can be shared on this matter would be truly appreciated! Thank you.