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      HOW TO: 4-STROKE PISTON REPLACEMENT DONE RIGHT!

Mavric_Bass

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About Mavric_Bass

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  1. Cheers plugeye yeah mine is not a cush drive so was hopeful for a smaller rear sprocket seeing as I am running a 17” rear. Hopefully I can source one in NZ What brand is yours? Might look online if I can’t one
  2. Excellent thanks for that what it your top speed?
  3. Anyone know the standard tooth count of DR350se front and rear sprocket? I bought a DiD standard sprocket and chain kit but the ratio is way too close at a 110kph the engine is nearing valve float. I expected it to be closer as I put 17” sumo rim on the back and 110/90-17 tyre Currently the sprockets are 14 front and 42 rear Any info on sprocket combinations that others are using would be appreciated Cheers
  4. Update: I took the DR350 for a ride last night! Whoohoo so I connected the green/red wire to the black/white and there was no issue with the CDI It shifted perfectly thanks Plugeye for pointing me in the right direction!
  5. Ok so I checked out the DR650 wiring diagram and sure enough plugeye is right the diode is on there! Yay! However the wire color is still different but geez it’s close enough so I am going to assume it is the Side stand switch wire and by the looks of it you just have to connect it to the black with white trace to complete its circuit. So fingers crossed it works as I am not looking forward to popping a CDI!
  6. I will check the DR650 wiring diagram out might have a clue to what the wire is cheers for the lead plugeye I never thought to check out other models!
  7. Hi guy I bought this 1999 DR350 not “S” or “SE” just a DR350 for $700. It is a standard road going model not a dirt to road conversion. I am from New Zealand and here we import JDM ( Japanese Domestic Model) vehicles which is what this DR350 is. My problem is the wiring has been hacked and chopped as it was a road bike originally that was registered and plated but was converted to dirt (idiot who I bought it off) So I am putting it back to stock I have undone the stupidity but cannot figure out the last wire which is a green wire with red trace which goes to the CDI and to a diode and it has a three way joiner but the wire had been snipped and taped. I have searched through all the wiring diagrams but can’t find it as they are all US/Canada and UK diagrams and for the S and SE which all have a battery circuit and tachometer where my one doesn’t. I suspect it is a kick stand switch but I would like the Gurus here to confirm this and if it is which is the best way bypass it. The blue wires on the end of the Diode go to the neutral switch which brings me to my last problem the bike cuts out when moved out of neutral with clutch in. Again leading me to believe that the mystery wire is for a kick stand switch. Any knowledge that can be shared on this matter would be truly appreciated! Thank you.