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About Augoose

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    South Carolina
  1. Good luck!
  2. The "must do" mod I'm familiar with is the loctite fix for the Allen head screws located behind the stator cover. Not a bad job at all and possibly it has already been done on the one you are looking at. Other mods include the installation of case covers and filing down some sharp points on the shift and brake levers to prevent damage in the event of dropping the bike on its side. $2,000 is a touch high in my market - not unrealistic however. Erik Marquez has a list of mods here -
  3. Why are you getting a new carb? Unless something structural is wrong with yours, ie cracked or broken housing, there is no reason it can't be rebuilt. As for your stator cover plug, I would try lightly tapping a channel with a sharp chisel extending from the top of the rounded out allen wrench hole and working its way to the 12 oclock position on the plug. Once you have that channel, take the widest flat blade screw driver you can find and at an angle, try tapping the plug loose. New ones can be purchased online for about $15. As for the rounded out screws, I'd replace them all. Try filing or grinding down two sides to make them flat so you can clamp a vice clamp on them or a good pair of locking pliers. What's happening with your spark plug? Can you shine a light down the hole and see if it has broken off and is stuck inside the cylinder head? When mine comes loose from the head I use a pair of long handled hemostats to reach down in there and gently pull the loose plug out.
  4. Good luck and I feel for you. I recently got my '01 DRZ400e running after having similar symptoms - no start due to compression loss. You have lots of options short of an engine swap, just keep with it and follow the steps Erik and other suggest- they will guide you in the right direction!
  5. I put about 50 reasonably hard trail miles on the bike over the past weekend and then drained the oil. No metal shavings in the oil or in the filter! I ran across a 2007 DRZ400s on the trail and compared engine sounds. His idled quite a bit higher and didn't seem to have as pronounced knocking sound, but the comparisons are not necessarily apples to apples of course. I'm going to just relax and ride the bike. As advised, I'll check the valve clearances down the road. Thanks all!
  6. Thanks all- I'll check out the screw!
  7. Can you guys please recommend to me a good fuel mixture screw for the DRZ400e? The one that came with the all-balls carb repair kit doesn't seem to work. The thumb screw portion contacts the base of the carb prior to the point where the mixture screw would be all the way in, making it difficult to find a starting position for 2 turns out. Thanks!
  8. Thanks all - feeling much more confident. I put 93 octane fuel in tonight and to my ears it sounds quieter too. ohiodrz400sm - I did check the crank and did not find any play. I do need to turn up the idle just a bit! cocre - thanks very much and I would like to take you up on that sometime if it is not a bother. I'll PM you.
  9. Thanks Yanka. Here's a video. I can definitely hear the knocking I'm concerned about in the video. If you guys hear nothing abnormal I'm good!
  10. Good afternoon all, Question regarding my newly rebuilt 2001 DRZ400e. I'm using my stock but rebuilt head and original undamaged cylinder with new Weisco piston and rings. The bike seems to run well other than being just a bit on the lean side. I still need to fine tune the carb a bit. I bought this bike non-running and the only other DRZ's I've listened to have been on youtube so its hard to tell what a normal DRZ engine sounds like. I've been doing a lot of reading and many posters seem concerned about engine knocking or possible piston slap, especially due to the short skits on the piston. Most of the responses summarize the DRZ as "Loud" and its nothing to worry about. My son's TTR125 and my wife's TTR225 are darn near silent and have no knock whatsoever. I can't even hear their bikes when idling next to the DRZ. Being overly paranoid about this bike and all the trials I've had with it, my question deals with an engine knock sound. Listening to the bike idle, there is a knock that is paced with the rpms. The higher the rpms the knock increases in tempo but doesn't increase in sound. Kneeling next to the bike, the best way to describe it would be taking two hickory 3/4" dowels and knocking them together lightly but really quickly. Using the screwdriver to the ear trick against the cylinder, I can definitely hear a knock but this way sounds much lighter and almost tinny. Hard to describe sounds over the internet of course. Using a laser thermometer, I took temp readings at idle around the head and around the cylinder after running around for about 30 minutes. It read about 160 degrees (F) on the left side of the cylinder and head, about 660 degrees at the start of the exhaust pipe, about 220 on the right side of the cylinder, and about 180 on the right side of the head. Of course the closer to the exhaust sides of the cylinder and head, the higher the readings- the intake ends were about 20 degrees lower on average across all test sites. So, I'm guessing that if the knock sound was due to the piston grinding itself into the side of the cylinder walls I'd have some really high temps, wouldn't you think? I plan on draining the oil and changing the filter this weekend. Was going to cut into the filter and look for metal fragments. Please tell me I'm just paranoid and can quit worrying. Thanks Augoose
  11. Just to follow up with this thread, Fastheads did a great job with the head. I ended up replacing the piston and rings as the old rings were stuck to the piston. After reassembly, I started the bike and tuned the carb. All is well! Thanks to everyone who helped me. This is a great forum and I really appreciate the education and assistance! Augoose
  12. Thanks all for the help - it is greatly appreciated. In reading the above and thinking about it more, I'm hoping that it was indeed fuel mixed with oil that I saw drain out into the pan. I drained all the oil out and it was chocolate but not frothy. Who knows when the PO last changed the oil too. Before I replaced the piston which had stuck rings, I tried to start it alot - used starting fluid, etc. Thinking about the above, all that stuff likely drained right down into the engine and mixed with the oil. Additionally, when I was draining the radiator, I spilled new green coolant into the oil accidentally. Later on this evening when I poured it out, the green coolant bubbles were still separate from the oil, again pointing to fuel and not coolant that was mixed. I also pulled the valve cover and inspected the welch plugs - best I could tell they looked intact and all the oil in and around the top of the head looked nice and clean. No froth at all. Lastly, I refilled the oil and the coolant and let the bike idle. I checked the coolant again and it took about a cup, I assume air worked its way out and additional passageways were filled. I then rode the bike for about 30 minutes. Nothing hard. Bike did not seem to over heat. I stopped and let the bike cool and checked the radiator - the coolant was down a bit, maybe two capfulls. No oil bubbles and no air bubbles - but I did wait to let it cool. The frothy hose ends worried me initially but you all addressed that above - plus there is no froth under the valve cover, no froth draining into the pan, and no froth on the dipstick. Thanks again!
  13. All, Another question about my 2001 DRZ400e. As detailed in another thread, I recently got my head back from Fastheads for a valve job. I also installed a new piston and rings while keeping my existing cylinder. The bike finally starts and runs! Initially I noticed a frothy white oily mixture dripping from the end of the valve cover vent hose. I pulled the valve cover and didn't see any issues so I was hoping it was something leftover in the hose prior to the rebuild. I went to drain the oil and it was very thin and almost watery- grey in color. I could not see green coolant in the oil and it wasn't milky white, but it was definitely thin. When I ran it between my fingers you could tell it was watery. I drained the coolant and it had white bubbles in it - no evidence of oil. I also removed the hose off the water pump and again, green coolant with no evidence of oil. No white smoke out of exhaust. Runs clean. The head gasket I used was new as was the base gasket. Before I tear it down again I was hoping for some suggestions. thanks
  14. This is the same bike in the other thread about the head that went to fast heads. I think the compression issue is solved. Bike runs and compression was at 100 psi prior to seating the rings in- just had to open the throttle like mlatour suggested. Now having issues with bubbles in coolant. Starting new thread. Thanks
  15. Thanks for the response. I just went out and tried it again with throttle wide open - 100 psi! So, the remainder of the low compression due to rings not seating and the autodecompression?