firebreathinCR

Members
  • Content count

    70
  • Joined

  • Last visited

Community Reputation

65 Excellent

About firebreathinCR

  • Rank
    TT Member

Profile Information

  • Location
    USA
  1. Its a comin, lol i had some other mom and pop shop tell me itd be 400 plus labor for the crankshaft but he did take the engine apart for me, says everything else looks good so i told him ill be getting the crank seperate and bringing it to him to put in, so im currently trying to find one (86-88 are compatible) for it
  2. Also, should i attempt to free this crank up with some brake parts cleaner/kerosene before anything?
  3. Question, i got the engine back, he pulled the clutch side off no problem, curious if i can split the crank case with your method without a flywheel puller? Looks like the flywheel needs to come off before i split it down the middle. Edit: if im gon a bust it open that way, can you share with me everything you disassembled before doing so? All cables, oil caps, etc
  4. I feel it, my dumbass didnt know the swingarm had to be supported when i was taking it off and i flipped when i saw what was going on, i ended up doing it with the bike laying down, super sketchy. What can i use to support the swingarm when i put it back together after I hammer the pin out?
  5. Much much appreciated. Learning this stuff 1 step at a time here lol.
  6. Thanks. Quick "single cylinder crankshaft" google search showed me exactly what i was wondering. So yeah, its gotta atleast be the main bearing, cause the rod moves just fine just wont cycle. These old geezers got me worrying too much.
  7. Anyone got a picture of the difference between the rod bearing and main bearing? Rod bearing is obvious but ive never seen inside a crank so i dont know what allows it to cycle. Just doing some thinking and if it was JUST the rod bearing, wouldnt it still turn over?
  8. Gotcha. If they come at me with some crazy "its jacked" bs ill be like ALRIGHTY coming to pick it up and tear it down myself now that i have the $ for the tools. Impatience is my biggest enemy. Im dreading waiting for tools in the mail but if its what i gotta do, i will.
  9. UPDATE: I was about an hour away from ordering a new crank setup for it. Then my grampa calls me saying dont order anything yet let me open the case and make sure of whats going on with it. Ill be there within the hour to get it. I said sure it cant hurt. So i gave the engine to my grandpa who is an expert on anything with a motor and he and his brother are going to split the case tomorrow and try to diagnose it. My uncle used to fix Triumphs and shit and my grandpa retired from GM so before i go ordering parts theyre going to try to unfreeze the thing. They told me they looked at it briefly today and see a lot of rust on everything, and think it was ran without oil. There is hardly any play on the con rod, hardly any at all. They are afraid due to the rust and the lack of play and how OK everything looks that it couldve ran without oil and everything just swoll up and froze. Tomorrow they will be opening up the cases and checking all the bearings and what not as well as closely inspecting all the parts of the crank. Best case scenario, he calls me saying they got it to turn over and it was rusted out or jammed up real good. Second best, they say yeah your crank bearings shot its gonna need rebuilt or need a new one. Third/worst, they tell me the thing is rusted out from the inside or completely jacked from running without oil and everything is sort of destroyed. One last note, there is some mild chipping around the edges of the top of the piston, i thought that could be due to the rod bearing failing resulting in enough vertical play for my piston to smack the cylinder head. They said noo it doesnt have near enough play for that. Theres also a bit of light vertical scoring in the cylinder, just enough to be able to see it when you shine a light directly into it. I am stumped about this. I took it to a shop and they shined a light into it through the top and said yeah we gotta rebuild this crank, $450 dollars please, so i said hmm that was sort of a quick diagnosis without taking the case apart so i took it home and thought long and hard about what to do next. I am afraid they just wanted money because of how quick they diagnosed it and they probably thought i was naive and inexperienced enough to just throw money at them. But now i am considering that they were correct as well (however i could get it done much cheaper). I need some real tips on what to look for here guys. I guess we wont know until they take that case apart right? Im bummed because i was ready to just order a splitter, puller, and a whole new 87 crank and go to town but Im glad someone slowed me down. At least i hope, cause who knows if I had it right or not. Im going to give my gramp and uncle a couple days with it and if they dont figure it out i'll grab it back from them and go rent the tools from home depot and do it myself because i seem to have good luck getting to the bottom of mechanical problems and it seems like everyone else i trust just gives me anxiety about it lol. I feel the best doing things on my own and always seem to make it work. So right now im in limbo, because I havent had the tools to open it up myself and im just waiting for a call back from my grandpa and uncle to see what they find. Edit: the counterweights dont look that rusty to me, just the rod, flywheel, sprocket etc. I bet this thing just got some water in it after whichever dummy before my tried to check it out and gave up. Probably left it out and got wet. Thats wishful thinking i know. We will see.
  10. I gave the engine to my grandpa who is an expert on anything with a motor and he and his brother are going to split the case tomorrow and try to diagnose it. My uncle used to fix Triumphs and shit and my grandpa retired from GM so before i go ordering parts theyre going to try to unfreeze the thing. They told me they looked at it briefly today and see a lot of rust on everything, and think it was ran without oil. There is hardly any play on the con rod, hardly any at all. They are afraid due to the rust and the lack of play and how OK everything looks that it couldve ran without oil and everything just swoll up and froze. Tomorrow they will be opening up the cases and checking all the bearings and what not as well as closely inspecting all the parts of the crank. Best case scenario, he calls me saying they got it to turn over and it was rusted out or jammed up real good. Second best, they say yeah your crank bearings shot its gonna need rebuilt or need a new one. Third/worst, they tell me the thing is rusted out from the inside or completely jacked from running without oil and everything is sort of destroyed. One last note, there is some mild chipping around the edges of the top of the piston, i thought that could be due to the rod bearing failing resulting in enough vertical play for my piston to smack the cylinder head. They said noo it doesnt have near enough play for that. Theres also a bit of light vertical scoring in the cylinder, just enough to be able to see it when you shine a light directly into it. I am stumped about this. I took it to a shop and they shined a light into it through the top and said yeah we gotta rebuild this crank, $450 dollars please, so i said hmm that was sort of a quick diagnosis without taking the case apart so i took it home and thought long and hard about what to do next. I am afraid they just wanted money because of how quick they diagnosed it and they probably thought i was naive and inexperienced enough to just throw money at them. But now i am considering that they were correct as well (however i could get it done much cheaper). I need some real tips on what to look for here guys. I guess we wont know until they take that case apart right? Im bummed because i was ready to just order a splitter, puller, and a whole new 87 crank and go to town but Im glad someone slowed me down. At least i hope, cause who knows if I had it right or not. Im going to give my gramp and uncle a couple days with it and if they dont figure it out i'll grab it back from them and go rent the tools from home depot and do it myself because i seem to have good luck getting to the bottom of mechanical problems and it seems like everyone else i trust just gives me anxiety about it lol. I feel the best doing things on my own and always seem to make it work. So right now im in limbo, because I havent had the tools to open it up myself and im just waiting for a call back from my grandpa and uncle to see what they find. Edit: the counterweights dont look that rusty to me, just the rod, flywheel, sprocket etc. I bet this thing just got some water in it after whichever dummy before my tried to check it out and gave up. Probably left it out and got wet. Thats wishful thinking i know. We will see.
  11. Thanks a lot. Does the con rod come with the bearings? Ill need? Check it out
  12. Hey all, I have been waiting for this day for quite a while. I am finally able to fix my bike, i've been in debt for some time but the day has come Now i have a question, when I got my bike checked out at the shop, i was told i could rebuild my crank with any rod and bearings from 1986-2000. I am going to purchase an entire new hot rods crank instead. Am i able to order any crank from 1986-2000 for my bike? Mine is a 1987. I just want to make sure I am getting the correct part before I spend the money! Appreciate any replies or help. Thanks!!
  13. Indeed i thought 450 was pretty ridiculous. Ill probably just get the parts myself, the con rod, lower bearing, and main bearings / seals, and have them rebuild it for me. Alright i see. I will accumulate the parts on my own and see what theyll charge me to rebuild it and put it in.
  14. WOW. Just got back from my bike shop. Told me yeah, it looks like the bearing(s) in the crank for sure. I was like so its gonna need rebuilt right? Hes like yup no other way to do it, then he goes and starts gettin me an estimate, ill attach a picture, and it reads like this: New Con Rod, $111, New crank bearings & seals, $54, and a gasket set, for $58. Now lets talk labor, 2 hrs for bottom end: $150. 1hr for Crank Rebuild: $75. And before you ask, yes he did write down the wrong year on the estimate! Total: $458.73. My thoughts: While it would be great and nice to throw a guy some cash and have it rebuilt for me and be riding in no time, I am pretty certain that I can find those parts for a good deal cheaper, i've seen all of this on ebay in the past month, and it was all about 20-40% cheaper, and good brands as well. Secondly, which gaskets is he including? 1 MS MTR GAS/SL YZ125 86'-88'. Doesnt really matter either way. My conclusion is that I believe with a $10 dollar flywheel puller, a bearing press and a case splitter if i need one (doubt it), I could most likely rebuild my crank for a hell of a lot cheaper and do it all myself, and spend like you said, $200.