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NC230F

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About NC230F

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  1. Go to 1.75 turns out on the fuel screw. My guess is that'll solve your idle issue. I've got the same mods as you and the same jet combo. Mine is set at 1 & 3/4 turns out and runs and idles flawlessly.
  2. I've got the 03'-05' needle and mine is set on the 4th clip position and runs flawlessly. If you have the power up needle I think the taper is a little different but I'd still guess that moving the clip down one position would solve your problem. It'll certainly richen up your mid throttle air/fuel ratio.
  3. You might want to check the needle position too. Someone with more experience can confirm but if it's lean on decel I think that's probably going to be the needle circuit only. The 132 main is only going to affect full throttle operation. Once you're off the throttle (decel) then the main jet isn't doing anything. Move that needle clip down a slot and that might solve your problem. But still, check your float level. It's sooooo easy and it affects all three circuits, idle, mid throttle and full throttle.
  4. Check the float level. My guess is it's low.
  5. A bog indicates a rich condition and a 132 main is almost certainly your problem. I ride near the coast (about 50 to 100 feet above sea level) and I have a 120 main and it's perfect.
  6. Thanks! If I hadn't have gotten it figured out today I was ready to surrender and take it to a shop. Sooo glad I didn't have to walk in there and tell the tech I messed up the carb. lol. Oh and I immediately rechecked the float level once I got the carb back on the bike this afternoon. It's so easy now since I put a clear drain tube on it and the drain screw is so easily accessible on these carbs. Thanks again for the help man!
  7. PROBLEM SOLVED! First of all thanks to all the guys that made suggestions and helped me figure this out! I took the entire carb apart this morning and went through EVERYTHING. The culprit was the needle retainer. When I initially removed the needle retainer I just re-attached it to the slide with the connector arm facing in the same direction as the link arm. This just seemed logical so that the brass link slides on as shown in the first photo. However, installing it that way covered the 3rd hole in the slide as seen in the second photo. As you can see by the third photo, there's a slot cut in the needle retainer to prevent the retainer from blocking that hole but to install it properly, the arm on the needle retainer is turned the opposite direction of the link arm which makes installing the brass link impossible without removing the locking screw from the link arm. Anyway I had it installed backwards and the 3rd hole in the slide was blocked and was causing my problem. I don't know when Honda started putting that 3rd hole in the slide but it's there on my 2017. If they had designed it with both the link arm and retainer arm pointed in the same direction this wouldn't have happened. Of course if I had been paying attention during re-assembly this wouldn't have happened. lol. Anyway I learned a bunch by taking that carb apart so many times and maybe this info will help out the next guy. Thanks again for the help guys. This forum rocks! Oh, and I'm settled on 120 main, needle in 4th clip from the top, 45 pilot with fuel screw turned 1 & 3/4 turns out. Bike immediately fired up at half choke and idled with choke off after about ten seconds. Airbox cap is off and exhaust plug is out. Roughly 100 feet above sea level and it was mid 70's today. Bike runs flawlessly from idle to max rpm. No popping, no bog, crisp throttle response and definitely stronger than before the uncorking. My plan is to never go back into that carb until it needs a rebuild. If I ride in cold temps I'm planning to reinstall the airbox cap and exhaust plug to richen it up a tad. Regardless, SHE LIVES! Going riding Saturday! Wooot!
  8. Ok I know this is a long shot but anybody know why there's a third hole in the bottom of the slide and what it's purpose is? The holes at 1 o'clock and 7 o'clock are the screw holes that hold the needle retainer to the slide. The hole at 9 o'clock is a mystery to me. I went and looked at Rick Ramsey's carb notes and notice there appears to be no third hole in that slide. Maybe this is something only on the newer bikes? There's a notch in my needle retainer that appears to be for this hole. And guess what, it was installed backwards covering that same hole. Perhaps this is my gremlin and the cause of my rich idle?
  9. By the way, is there any way to test the fuel screw while I have the carb off the bike? Is there a hole somewhere accessible that I can squirt some carb cleaner into while the fuel screw is turned all the way in to make sure it's seated properly and not leaking?
  10. Ok so I've got pics for you guys. First is the carb held vertical to the ground with the float valve partially open. Second is the carb tilted to the left relative to the ground at the point where the float closes the valve. Initially I had the bottom of the float set parallel to the carb body but leaned it out a tad to what it is set at now due to my rich idle condition. Third pic is the factory 2017 fuel screw on the left, 03/05 replacement on the right. Last pic is all my fuel screw parts, showing that they are accounted for so if there's an extra O ring or washer in the fuel screw passage some a-hole other than me put it there. lol. I have inspected the fuel screw chamber with a magnifying glass and can see no trash, extra parts. ect in the hole. When either fuel screw is installed and turned all the way in I can see the tip of the brass in the carb tube but it is not sticking out to the point where I can feel it with my finger. I would have taken a picture of that but it's so microscopic that my crappy phone camera can't get a clear picture of it.
  11. I've got a stocker 03/05 fuel screw in it right now. I still have the 2017 screw with the D shaped head. Yesterday when I pulled the fuel screw out to check the washer and O ring I compared the two fuel screws side by side to see if anything was different, bent, warped, missing, ect and they look identical. I thoroughly cleaned the fuel screw passage with carb cleaner prior to reassembly. I placed the spring on the fuel screw first then the metal washer, then the black O ring. I can always go back and swap in the 2017 fuel screw and see if that changes things although I feel the one that's in there now is fine. But, it's something else to check so I'll try that if the air cutoff bypass doesn't fix it. I determined to ride this weekend so keep the suggestions coming. lol. I'll be back on this afternoon with (hopefully) good news that one of these suggestions fixed it. Again, thanks so much for the help!
  12. Yea it's in the the 4th slot from the top. My previous comment was a typo. Yes the float level in my photo is with the bike sitting level to the ground (not leaned over on the kick stand) and the drain screw open. I've checked the vent tube at the top of the carb and it's fine. I even checked the fuel coming from the tank and it flows fine. I'm dumbfounded that I can't figure this out. If the bike didn't run perfect from 1/4 to full throttle I'd think something wasn't set right (needle, main jet ect) but the bike is literally perfect after 1/4 throttle all the way to redline. I've installed the 48, 45 and 42 pilot jet starting with the fuel screw 1 and 1/2 turns out, waited until warm up with idle as low as I can set it and then did the "hunt for highest idle" procedure with the fuel screw and I can turn that thing all the way in or all the way out and it does nothing. Your right, something major is wrong and I just can't figure it out. I'm going to go pull the carb off again this afternoon and try bypassing the air cutoff. Common sense would say that fuel is bypassing the idle circuit but who knows. Let me see if that has an affect and I'll report back. In the meantime if you guys have any other suggestions let me know. I definitely appreciate the help!
  13. I'll try it. I've got nothing to lose at this point.
  14. Yea mine was extremely lean from the factory. I bought the bike new back in April of last year, ran fine all summer then this past fall I tried cranking it one morning in 60 degree temps and it wouldn't even start on choke. Greyish/white plug, ect. Do you think I might have gone too far rich? I'm close to sea level, 120 main, needle in the 4th position from the bottom on a 03/05 needle. 45 pilot. I just went out there and backed the idle adjustment screw all the way down to the point that it was off the plate, 45 pilot 2 turns out and it's about 75 degrees here today. I can't get it to run unless I twist the throttle while engaging the starter and once it fires up it won't idle. I took it for a short ride and mid to full throttle is responsive, pulls hard and no bog or lean pop from exhaust. Idle to 1/4 throttle is terrible. Uuuugh
  15. I agree. So I just tried trouble shooting it again. I pulled the fuel screw, thoroughly cleaned the passage and installed a new spring, washer and O ring. I also checked the air cutoff diaphragm and it's fine. Still having the same issue. 45 pilot, fuel screw 2 turns out and once I got the bike warmed up I turned the fuel screw all the way in and it still idles and it's pig rich. Is it possible the float level is still too high? I'm running out of things to try.
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