DesertBraap

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About DesertBraap

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    Idaho
  1. It might be, but I'm not going to bother. I think I'll list the case on Ebay and let someone else have a go at it, if they want. I spent a few hours watching videos and reading TT threads which compelled me to try it myself. I've done a handful of crank bearings before so I have experience with it. For some reason these transmission bearings weren't even close to falling into place, and that's with dry ice and a case that was reading 250*. Definitely screwed up trying to "press" them into place, obviously. Maybe by the time I went to set the bearing I rubbed all the oil off. Can't figure out why else it wouldn't work. 3 of the six were in fine shape, the other 3 definitely weren't rolling as smooth as I'd like. Figured while I was in there it was worth replacing. The lesson I continually learn is that preventative maintenance almost always causes more problems and maintenance than just leaving well enough alone!
  2. Yeah, and all of the old threads I've read seem to suggest that as well. At this point I'll wait for someone to give me a reason why I shouldn't or couldn't go with just one side. I think I'm good. Yeah, no joke. I'm not incompetent with a wrench, but I do suffer from some exploration of stubbornness and stupidity from time to time.
  3. Severe moron alert!!! I'll ask my question first, since it's most important, then I'll rant below, in case anyone needs some laughter tonight. I cracked my right side engine case trying to press a transmission bearing in. I've attached pictures below. Bike is a 2015 YZ 250. Question: can I get away with purchasing just the right side engine case from any OEM distributor (Part No. 5NX-15121-00-00), or do I need to buy both sides as a matching set? I'm not finding a right side case on Ebay, but I am finding it for about $465 elsewhere. Sucks, but whatever. I am finding both sides for about $899 on Ebay. That hurts. I'm obviously hoping I can get away with just buying the right side. The crank assembly is still inside the right side case. I will have to remove it, but I'm also having a debate with myself whether I need to also replace the crank assembly, or if I can get away with just replacing the crank bearings and using the used crank. The motor wasn't blown up or otherwise evidencing any other signs I need to replace the crank, but I am replacing the top end, and I've been jostling and banging the case (with crank still attached) a bit trying to get bearings in an out. Peace of mind might be worth another $350 (ughhhh). Okay, so story and rant: I made a thread a few months ago about whether I should keep and update my 2005 YZ 250 (which was running great, by the way), or buy what seemed to me to be a pretty cherry 2015 YZ 295 for under $4k. I chose to buy the 2015, and got it for a good price. The kid who owned it was a beginning and hardly rode it, but the person before rode it hard but also took care of it. The bike was in excellent shape everywhere I could inspect. So I picked it up and rode it a few times. The clutch was really hard to pull, and the action was not smooth. I took the clutch apart to inspect and found some metal debris in the motor. I posted a thread on here earlier about it. The consensus was I needed to split the cases and clean up and remove what looked to be a blown shift stopper lever. Sure enough, the bearing on the shift stopper lever was toast. I split the cases and found some random debris in the motor, so that was a good idea. While I was in there I decided I would replace the shift stopper lever, the shift shaft (also bent), the push lever, some other odds and ends, and all of the transmission bearings, just in case. I also decided to install a new top end for the Eric Gorr 295. Disassembly went well. The problems started when I needed to install the transmission bearings. I tried sweating them in using dry ice and a heat gun, and the first two on the left side did not go in very smoothly, but I got them in. All day today I debated just paying a shop to press the other side in, but decided to try it myself again. Bad idea. Tonight I tried letting the right side bearings set in dry ice longer, and I tried to heat the case to a hotter temperature (using a temp gun to monitor). As it goes with me, the first bearing I tried to install went in about half way before stopping, crooked. Because the right side case still has the crank in it I didn't want to try and hammer the bearing in (not sure if that's a good idea anyway), so I building a homemade drift and tried pressing it in. Obviously I cracked the case because the bearing was crooked and never righted itself, and there was too much pressure. Live and learn, but the lesson is, ultimately: f$%# installing bearings at home, by yourself, no matter what method you use. Always just pay a shop to do it. Damn it. So, score card for this "new" bike that supposedly was 10 years more fresh than my 2005: $150 for a new top end kit, $229 for a new clutch basket, $145 for new clutch parts, $235 for other miscellaneous motor parts I wanted to freshen up, and now another $500 bucks for a right side case and bearings, and possibly another $350 for a crank assembly and crank bearings. What a day.
  4. I haven't. I wonder if the loose basket bolt may have introduced some play that may have caused that rubbing. On the other hand, the inside of the cover isn't marred at all. I'm going to replace the push rod and the actuator arm (along with some of the other clutch components). We'll see if that doesn't help.
  5. I would suggest keeping both the frame and suspension, and put your money and effort into the following: 1. Tuning the existing suspension to your weight and riding style / situation 2. Getting the jetting in order 3. Getting your ergonomics in order (bar height / bend, offset, fork height, sag, seat height, footpeg height, add a stabilizer) 4. Regrease or replace bearings, linkage, steering stem, and pivot bolts 5. Set your squish; set your timing 6. Figure out your preferred gearing 7. If woods riding, maybe get a 18" wheel with a trials tire. To answer your question, though... I would definitely look into the restyle kit. I think it's money well worth it.
  6. Beautiful bike! I just acquired a EG 295. I'm not entirely sold on it over the stock 250. Mostly I worry about the reliability and stress on the parts that the 295 demands, and I'm considering swapping back a more reliable and trustworthy stock setup. What were your experiences going from a 250 to 295 and then back?
  7. Thanks guys. I think I agree with everyone here now that I look closer. Not a big deal to tear down, as I've done it before. It just turns this Saturday from a riding day to a mechanic day. Hopefully I caught it before it caused a mess inside and it will be a relatively painless fix.
  8. So that's as far as I got. I wanted to post the pictures here and ask a few questions / advice of the group. First, I'm going to replace, at the very least, z new nut and lock washer, clutch springs, clutch bolts, and push rod. I think the friction plates and clutch plates are fine, and despite the marring on the clutch basket, I think I can get away with using it for a little while longer. The marring isn't in play and the grooving on the basket itself is just barely noticeable. More important, though: -Does anyone have any idea what those metal pieces may be, or where they came from? -What is that ring on the stopper lever, and is that something I should take apart, inspect, and replace? The manual does not show any ring in those parts - the washer that goes on the stopper lever bolt is there. - I would like not to have to split the case - any thoughts on that? The bike seems to shift well, so I'm not sure something is grenading from the transmission or elsewhere in the case. There was some very light metal flakes in the transmission oil both times I've changed it thus far, but no chunks or larger pieces. I wonder if the metal pieces I found are something that was left behind somehow? - On the other hand, the chunk that looks like it comes from a ring (with a groove on the inside) gives me concern - any ideas what that might be from? Thank you all for any thoughts or advice you might have. Ultimately I'd like to get this done right and have a smoother, easier clutch pull.
  9. So after I removed the clutch from the bike, I found two pieces of metal inside the engine - the first piece was sitting in the oil at the bottom of the case. It's a very small chunk of a ring or spacer. The outside is smooth and the inside has a groove. See the pics below: I have no idea what this is or where it might come from. The other piece of metal I found was a bit more of a chore to locate. I noticed it inside the engine case through one of the holes in the case. It was just sitting there inside the hole about 2" in. The only reason I noticed it was because I really looked over every inch of the engine and noticed something inside one of the holes. I pulled it out and it's a very light aluminum ring that has also been damaged. More importantly, I don't know what it is or where it's from. Notice that hole next to the metal piece? That's where I found it - about 2" inside. This is what the metal piece looks like:
  10. I should first mention that the nut that holds the clutch boss and clutch plate on was loose. As in, I could move the nut with my fingers. The lock washer was broke on one side, and the other side was bent out just enough to let the nut rotate past it. But despite being loose, it wasn't close to coming off. But it certainly wasn't set at 54 ft-lbs of torque, either. So that might be one possible culprit for the poor clutch performance. So, the clutch basket itself also had some slight scoring on the back side. Nothing much, but a little chip and scratching. See here: The clutch basket also showed just a little bit of grooving from the friction plates - not bad, but very slightly. In the next post I'll show the metal pieces I found, and ask some questions for the group.
  11. So last month I was debating the purchase of a very clean 2015 YZ 295 (Eric Gorr) to replace my trusty 2005 YZ 250. I did make the purchase. The 2015 was extremely clean, well-cared for, and wasn't ridden much in the past year because the person I bought it from was going through a divorce and didn't have much free time. The bike started first kick, shifted well, and seemed to be in order. The only issue I noticed was the clutch pull was extremely hard, despite having a fancy Sunline / One Industries clutch perch and lever. When I took possession of the bike I did a tear down and regreased everything, cleaned the carb and rejetted the bike, installed a new clutch cable, greased the arm, changed the oil, etc. This past weekend was the first I was actually able to ride the bike, and I spent 5 hours at the track. The bike ran great - started the first kick, and for the first hour I had to chase the jetting a bit, but otherwise seemed to run great. But still, the clutch pull issue lingered, and beyond being hard to pull, it just didn't seem right. I felt a bit of grinding when I would engage the clutch. However, there was no noticeable noise, no lurching or stalling, so the clutch itself seemed to work fine. The bike was advertised as having "new, stiff clutch springs." Tonight I was able to tear into the clutch to take a look at things. This is what I found. The first thing I noticed was there was one odd clutch spring bolt. Same bolt size and thread, but the bolt face was only a bolt (no phillips screw like the others). But, likely no big deal. Second, there was a lot of scoring on the pressure plate. See here: The pressure plate looks fine otherwise. Next, I checked the springs, friction plates and clutch plates, and they looked fresh and within spec. I am still going to replace the clutch springs and bolts (OEM, stock stiffness). The pushrod did look to have some slight mushrooming on the end, so I'll just replace that as well. Next, I decided to take off the clutch boss and clutch basket. When I pulled them off, this is what I found. Notice the toasted aluminum ring on the stopper lever. I don't know what that is or how it got there. There was some slight scoring on the inside of the case next to the water pump, just below the gears. See below: To be continued in the next post...
  12. I picked up the 2015. Paid just under $4k. It's super clean. Now I have to sell the 2005 and wait for the snow to melt! I'm going to spend the weekend tearing into it to see if I need to do anything more than an oil change and rejet. I'll check in more detail the cylinder, piston, squish, timing, pressure, etc. Question: is the Eric Gorr 295 cylinder a "bolt-on" mod? Or, more specifically, could I swap my 2015 295cc cylinder head with my 2005 250cc cylinder head? Obviously I would replace the piston, rings, pin, gaskets, etc. But from the top up, it should be swappable, yes?
  13. Good discussion. I think most of you hit the nail on the head. Here are my thoughts: 1. Urbanization. The US is increasingly becoming more urban (or suburban). Fewer and fewer of us live in rural areas and small towns. It's simply much more difficult (or impossible) to ride any typical two stroke or four stroke dirt bike where most of us live. So we have to drive to riding places... 2. Cost. It's correct that the price of new bikes is far too high for most people, but I actually think there is a fairly robust used bike market in most places. But the bike cost is only one part of the equation. You need a place to store the bike. You need a way to transport the bike (trailer or truck). You need gear (boots, helmet, gloves, goggles, pants, braces, etc.). You need parts and tools to maintain the bike. It's just an expensive sport to participate in. Fact: I found that I saved almost $2k per year the past few years I wasn't riding (on a paid off bike - I'm talking parts, bike gas, truck gas, gear, etc.). 3. Disposable income. This might be the most influential. I just think that most of us have less disposable income than 15 or 20+ years ago. Housing costs have skyrocketed, especially in those areas that have great dirt biking access. College costs / student loans. Insurance costs. Food costs. Auto costs. Taxes. Beyond that, many of us are trying to maximize our savings, investments, and retirement. Factor in some of the other things that we see more and more of in modern society - cell phones and cell phone bills, electronics, expensive home remodels, RVs or camp trailers, vacations... It just makes it really hard to find the money (and time, frankly) to put toward a dirt bike hobby. My wife and I make good money, have a low mortgage, no kids, and no significant debt. We max out our retirement and savings. We have little disposable income (maybe $500-$700 per month) that gets taken down fast on vacation saving, home projects, other entertainment and hobbies. It is hard for me to justify much more than $50 bucks a month toward dirt biking. That's not even enough to cover gas, premix, oil, and spark plugs riding twice a month. Makes it tough for normal maintenance beyond that. 4. Other hobbies. I'm not so sure that kids are too lazy or stuck behind screens... at least not where I live. But there are just so many things for us to do now. BMX, mountain bikes, backpacking, hiking, snowmobiles, SxS, ATVs, jetskis, rafting, kayaking, skateboarding, ball-sports, music, gaming, car mods, surfing, skiing/snowboarding... the list goes on and on and on. We kayak, mountain bike, camp, and hike. Wife doesn't dirt bike so it's hard to find the full day to spend dirt biking with the fellas, especially if we're spending our (warm weather) weekends doing other stuff. It's also interesting to point out that many of these other hobbies also have decreasing levels of participation. 5. Access / overpopulation. I don't think its much of a problem in Idaho and a lot of the west, but is definitely more of an issue the closer you get to the major urban areas, near Seattle, Portland, and much of California, etc. Certainly an issue the more east you go, where you're limited to tracks and private land. Housing is just eating that land up. Makes it all the more important to KEEP PUBLIC LANDS PUBLIC. 6. Increasingly difficult MX tracks. I love riding MX. What I don't love is supercross style 75' doubles that you either make or you severely hurt yourself. Friend of mine used to race every weekend, was an intermediate racer with 20+ years experience. Crashed and is now paralyzed. Hard for most of us weekend warriors with families and responsibilities to justify that risk. I won't go to the tracks much anymore because the jumps are just too big and risky, and the track designs just aren't interesting enough beyond the jumps.
  14. Thanks guys. I knew it was kind of a tricky decision, which is why I posted it here. I got an unsolicited offer on my 2005, so if that actually goes through, it is setting up nicely to grab that 2015.
  15. Hey all, I used to post here many moons ago but lost my contact info when the site changed around. So new name and account. Anyway... Question to ponder: I've owned a 2005 YZ250 for the last 10 years. Spent most of that time updating and upgrading the bike - squish set, many top ends, new bottom end, several suspension revalves (Enzo and Smart), tore down and serviced all the bearings, etc., as well as many of the common mods you frequently read about on here. It runs great and is trustworthy, but most of all I have 10 years of knowledge invested into the maintenance of this bike. However, it's about at the point where the bike is starting to get a bit tired and in need of some major love. It still runs great, but I am noticing some things that need attention. I have about $2k to play with, with which I can either update the 2005, or sell it and purchase a pretty cherry 2015 YZ250 (with a 300 Eric Gorr top end) I found locally for a steal, that has itself been updated (new tires, levers, plastic, braces, top end, etc.), original owner claims less than 30 hours. The difference between what I could sell the 2005 and buy the 2015 is probably about $1,500, leaving me $500 for a likely suspension revalve and/or steering damper for the new bike. If I keep the 2005, the biggest update is to upgrade to 2007+ SSS forks and 2010+ triple clamps setup (as a taller rider I need the adjustable bar clamp location). I'm getting annoyed tuning the 2005 AOSS suspension, and would just rather go in on a newer front fork and clamp setup (with revalve). Figure about $1k all in for this, less $300 or so selling the 2005 setup. I also want to put on a full Scotts Steering Damper setup ($600), and then I'll need to do a top end ($120), new front and rear tire ($200), new plastics ($200), service and grease all bearing and linkage, some carb mods (#8 slide, Suzuki needle, new range of brass, power jet, etc.), silencer repack, and a few other items. Generally the motor is sound on my 2005 and otherwise everything else is good. From a money perspective it's about a wash either way. So I could go with the 2005 for piece of mind knowing the full history and maintenance of the bike, or update all around with the 2015 and have less familiarity with the bike's history. I realize that aside from the suspension, and a few other minor details, the 2005 and 2015 are virtually the same machine. What's the better play here? Thanks!