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Samuel Theriault

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About Samuel Theriault

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    TT Member

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    Male
  • Location
    Quebec

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  1. Samuel Theriault

    Clutch Help

    Wow my bad for some reason I thought you said to pull the shaft out of the cover.
  2. Samuel Theriault

    Clutch Help

    There is a seal and bearing that prevents the shaft from being pulled out or in. Taking that out would just be a needless pain for him. I get how that would make it easy though. You just need to make sure the pushrods points towards rear wheel and put cover on making sure the pushrod slides in the hole in the cover. The teeths on the pushrod need to engage with the ones on the shaft passing through the hole in cover. While putting cover on look inside and make sure the pushrod goes in the hole and is facing backwards. Try rotating the shaft clockwise when doing so to help by hooking the teeths together and pulling themselves in.
  3. Samuel Theriault

    Clutch Help

    Because it's when it locks that it starts to disengage the clutch. In fact, it does not lock, it just gets super hard to pull because only then you start pulling against the clutch springs that hold the clutch pack together. That is why it is necessary to line up the arm between the alignment marks while in the "locked" position. Because if you are not pulling against the clutch pressure plates then you are not doing anything at all except move the floppy pushrod about. The pushrod needs to not be floppy. How to do that? Constantly keep it flat againts the inside of the pressure plate. And how to do that? Make sure the arm's neutral position is the "locked" position. The cable makes sure the arm stays in this position by not allowing the arm to rotate backwards. Hence the importance of having the cable snug tight. Not to tight or you'll have the neutral position be slightly too much and the clutch will constantly be lightly disengaged (pulled apart). Just thought about it, the locked position should be a clear instant lock, not a slow progressive lock. The reason why I am saying this is because maybe the push rod is not engaged and the only resistance you are getting is from the small spring wraped around the arm. Check and report back.
  4. Samuel Theriault

    Clutch Help

    I think the word you are looking for here is "resistance" instead of "compression". If there is still no resistance when pulling the clutch lever even after you aligned it correctly when pushed forward then the issue must be with the cable. When pulling the lever does the actuator arm move? If the actuator arm moves but there is no resistance (lever don't snap back in place when dropped) then I believe the problem is either in the alignment of the arm, the actuating mechanism or the whole clutch but if you did not mess with it then it shouldn't be the case. If the cable does not pull the arm then you just need to tighten the cable at the lever and make sure everything is hooked in place good. Don't panic, this is a simple fix and it is ok to be confused. Without insulting you, I'd highly suggest that you ask a friend that does not have much difficulty reading and understanding so he could read the older posts and explain it to you as best he can. Or just ask any knowledgeable person in the subject, like a mechanic for example. You need to understand, if the little arm locks in between the alignment marks when rotating clock wise then the actuating mechanism is good and there SHOULD be resistance. So, if this is the case, the solution is simple and is in the cable.
  5. Samuel Theriault

    Clutch Help

    The pushrod does not "engage" the clutch, in fact the clutch is always engaged when put together. When you pull on the handle bar lever you DISENGAGE the clutch (break the link between engine and transmission). Here is how that happens SIMPLY: Pulling on your handlebar lever shortens the clutch cable, which rotates the vertical clutch actuator shaft. That shaft has gears that are engaged with the rack of the horizontal floppy pushrod (here is the importance of pointing the rack backwards, it needs to link with the actuator shaft). SO, the rotational movement from the actuator shaft is changed into lateral movement on the floppy pushrod. Now, even though it's called a pushrod, it's purpose here is to pull the clutch pack apart. The reason why you align your clutch shaft in the case adjustment marks by rotating it fully forward is because you want the neutral pushrod position to be flat against the main clutch pressure plate so when you pull your lever you instantly pull the pack apart and the pushrod isn't floppy inside. This means that you could disengage your clutch by pulling real hard on the small lever where the cable hooks on but that would require tons of force which the leverage from your handlebar lever provides. Now here is an optional oversimplified lesson on how the clutch works beyond the actuating mechanism. The clutch pack is consisted of a bunch of plates that are stuck together via heavy duty springs. Pulling on the lever forces againts those springs (here's why your heavy yamaha clutch pull comes from) to separate these plates. Half of the plates are linked to the engine and the other half to the transmission (or the rear wheel), thus disengaging eachother. Now here you can understand why clutch slipping wears the plates but there is now way on earth I am getting into any of this because I went way overboard with this and probably lost your interest about halfway through. Hope I am rambling sense, don't be afraid to ask for clarifications though make sure you read through my whole thing.
  6. Samuel Theriault

    Clutch Help

    The pushrod is the floppy thing sticking out of the clutch pack, it is normal for it to be floppy and it is also normla for it to spin round. The clutch actuator shaft is the vertical shaft that has a lever connected to it that then has the cable hooked on. Now, read my previous post knowing this: floppy horizontal thing with a rack that needs to point backwards=pushrod vertical rod that spins and actuates the clutch=actuator shaft little bit that needs to be in between the alignment marks on the case and has the cable hooked on=lever
  7. Samuel Theriault

    Clutch Help

    Alright so if you still need help, first of all, make sure the actuator shaft (rod that spins in the cover) gear teeths are engaged with the floppy pushrod sticking out of the clutch pack. This may require some fiddling, to help with that, try spinning the shaft clockwise when putting the cover on so it pulls itself in if you get what I mean. When putting the cover on, try peeping inside so the floppy pushrod really goes where it should. The when the cover is on and bolted (not too tight btw) make sure the actuator shaft is in place by rotating it, if it locks somewhere, it is good. Then you should have removed the lever off the shaft to make life a whole lot easier for you. To remove the lever, it is just a simple clip holding it. After the clip is gone, you can remove the plain washer and slide the lever off of the splines on the shaft (here is a good place to learn what splines are. After that, you just need to go through the tedious process of finding the correct spline. To do that hellish and terribly difficult job all you need to do is put the lever on any spline, rotate it as much as you can forward, and see if it aligns in between the adjustment marks on the case as seen in the manual. Knowing it must be rotated forward to read the adjustment you should realize that the correct splines will be somewhere a little back from the alignment marks. Then you put the washer and the clip on, the cable and ride! It is a good idea to adjust you clutch on the clutch perch before hand just so you are sure everything is good. Btw all this is found in the manual, you can find them online. Good luck!
  8. Samuel Theriault

    1999 KX125 Rebuild

    Do you have hydraulic brakes on your MTB? That seems over the top I thaught they were cable actuated only. Nice project!
  9. Samuel Theriault

    2001 yz125 kick start axle issue

    Here is a picture taken straight from the owner's manual of a 2004, the kick axle assembly is the same. Bottom of pic is where you interest should be. Make sure the part is installed properly. The fact that the kicker was already like that when bought leads me to believe it was just installed wrong rather than worn out but always do check what yz doc says. If you follow the assembly instructions (2 goes in B and A goes in C) then you should be able to pull the other end of the spring in the small hole you have it into. It should be quite difficult to do but not require any tools. Be careful not to scratch the gasket surface of the casing when pulling the spring in its destination like I've seen heavy handed people do. Then it should work as intended. Also be careful not to test it too hard when the casing is off because it might pop out, I've also seen a heavy handed person do that but I will no give out his identity away because I don't want to look like an idiot .
  10. Samuel Theriault

    Lower shock collars

    I had the exact same question a while ago and made a thread about it. Been told to put it reverse, it was reverse when I took it out and I put it back in reverse. To me that's what made the most sense because if put like the manual then the collar touches both the inner and outside race of the bearing. Made no sense I tought it would just be scraping along the bearing. Anyway I put it in reverse and don't yet have issues, suspension works and feels good. So confused about this. Oh and btw I ordered an all balls kit and the fitment on that was pretty bad. Even with the bearing frozen and the shock heated it was a pain to put in, mostly upper bearing. OEM from now on.
  11. Samuel Theriault

    Govenor gear not lining up??

    I heard of people having this issue on a brand new 2015 yz250 that had never been apart with 40hrs max on it and also on a 09 yz250 that only had 10hrs in. Mine is a 04 yz125 so the issue might not be there after the final major change in the engine compartment done in 06 if I am correct for 125, not sure when or if something similar is the case for 250s but we know it happended on a 09 and 15 so anything with the same engine is at risk I would assume. My guess is that this issue is still present to this day for both 125 and 250 but I wouldn't really call myself a good reference. I had to get a new oem clutch inner casing for 250$, a clutch cover for 350$ and all that + shipping. It blows me away that the cover costs more than the casing but I guess that's the way it is for bikes that have the clutch acuator assembly inside of the cover. Luckily I did not need to change the engine cases and I do not think this particular failure could cause the need of changing them. Again, sorry I am off topic.
  12. Samuel Theriault

    Govenor gear not lining up??

    I deserve that, stupid me went off topic again. Alright don't mind me I am an idiot.
  13. Samuel Theriault

    Govenor gear not lining up??

    Sorry I don't think you understand what happened to me. The bolt backed out and tore the casing apart and warped the cover round. The bike acted as it was seized because the bolt was pushing hard on the casing preventing the crank to spin. Here are pics of the mess, one of them is with the casing off to see just how much it backed out. This is an issue that happens quite a bit, sometimes with brand new bikes. Mine is a 04 yz125. Hope I make sense.
  14. Samuel Theriault

    Govenor gear not lining up??

    Yes I saw that, thanks for pointing it out! I just wanted op to know this bolt can cause issues if to backs out. Would not want anyone else have to experience this whole 700$ pit just because a couple cents weren't put into loctite.
  15. Samuel Theriault

    Govenor gear not lining up??

    That gear you are not sure of the name is called the primary drive gear. If you are still in there, make sure the bolt on there is locked in with threadlocker and well torqued to spec because I had to pay for a whole clutch inner casing AND overpriced clutch cover + a whole month of not riding waiting for parts JUST because previous owner had rebuild bottom end and had not threadlocked it. Seriously though, it only takes a couple minutes and I will always check on that bolt from this bike on. If you're having trouble torquing it, consider jamming a rag in between the gears so it won't spin. I Wish you and your friend happy riding!
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