RedmistNZ

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About RedmistNZ

  • Rank
    TT Member

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  • Gender
    Male
  • Location
    New Zealand
  • Interests
    Mud
  1. The AAAhole who filmed me on a GoPro, helping a small kid who smashed/wasted his knee on some rocks then seeing UTube clip with "Grow some balls" graphics added. I know who this POS is, I'm looking forward to see him on the ground under my front wheel.
  2. Nice stable man That front tyre should be date stamped. If original, it might not last long Early 2017 I bought a "99.9% New, Dunlop medium compound rear tyre" that was hanging up in a shed after being removed from a new bike . Tyre was perfect to look at, however it lasted 2hrs on a snotty ride before the knobs started to get ripped off + a flatty!!! Riding buddy suggested looking for a date stamp (news to me), tyre was made 2002 and was useless. Only new shop bought tyres for me now. Enjoy your new weapon
  3. small modifications like what you have done can add up to the end result. That edge could have been cleaned up at the factory, good spotting!! I am still using the stock reed cage with Boyesen power reeds on my '06 250 and have been looking at the Rad Valve or V-force conversion. Still undecided on which way to go. Any suggestions +/- on either one? Have made major bottom end gains with cylinder/head mods , will be installing FWW soon , bike is trail ridden only, Vet rider. Thanks for the info
  4. wrong post sorry. pics meant for cr5 forum. But I gotta ask how come the v force block needs work?
  5. riding buddies '96 CR5 /'98 frame. Built 15+ yrs ago. fast !!! EATS 450s.
  6. The manual has the correct depth the bearings have to pressed into the linkage. The seal (good or bad quality) will protude if bearing sit out too far. You will get water ingress no matter what, this measurement can be done using a vernier caliper . Presure washers
  7. Cumminsblake How many hrs on this bike and what sort of riding do you do? Was there excessive smoke when riding? Engine seals can dry out when bikes are left sitting for long periods. What carb, jets and needle are you using? Check breather hoses for blockages or kinks , make sure float level is correct. Your power valve seemed ok in vid (might be sticking when hot???) open at higher revs, closed with no delay, same as my '06. Get a manual and check air screw setting , then idle screw setting. You might find these are way off !!! With worn rings and rich factory jetting I had a lot of problems with fouling plugs / engine loading / splooge out of pipe for trail/woods riding. I rejetted carb (JD kit- #jdh005) with very good results and a new top end. Bike ran really well until........ after 10hrs on new top end I started getting an erratic idle, down on power a bit through the range, bit of smoke, and surging when slowing down after WOT Gearbox oil level down , turns out main seal leaking. Will be changing asap. Good luck
  8. Nice machine FBL, These bikes don't like the blended gas too much . The head mod others talked about sorted my '06 . Easily done by any good machinist, and it allows you to run a broader range of fuel types. All the specific info needed is posted on TT . I have run 98 octane (BP ultimate) with motul 800 40-50:1 on many different bikes ( I don't use castor based oil because of the higher maintenence required) TMX with JD jetting and the bike rips with no detonation. Also, check rc valve operation with bike running and cover off at WOT Hope this is helpful
  9. Easter Sunday- Wellington New Zealand
  10. Have you also checked all the breather hoses on carb? I had the same symptoms on my '06 with new top end. After doing a jet change the float bowl breather hose bent 90 degrees, forming a kink in plastic hose !! Bike ran fine up to 3/4 throttle then would bog a bit in the powerband and then take off again. I thought jetting was too lean so changed back to previous settings - same symptoms.........wtf?? The float level was inconsistent due to carb not breathing properly, new breather hose fixed that. Hope this is helpful and good luck.
  11. New Injected ktm/Huskys 2 strokes run 80:1. Time will tell ................
  12. JD kit worked well for my '06. The smaller pilot (32.5) made it crisp from 0 to 3/4 + 400 main as jd reccomends 0-3000 ft. Don't foul plugs/loves the slow tech stuff and still pulls hard into top end. They can be good carbs when jetted right as said above . Honda jets are big $$$ over here in NZ. eg: $37 for ONE needle, .........LOL, hence the JD kit for me. i r
  13. A bit of splooge is ok. Fouling plugs is not (IMO) Check the heat range of what plug you are running, not always what is reccomended in the manual . I run a hotter plug than the manual suggests (for trail riding), still get splooge but plug stays good even in the slow terrain . I have run 50:1 motul 800 (98pump gas) for years in many different bikes. It it what motul reccomends , most times a bit of splooge . Never any issues with excessive ring /pistons wear . Hope this is helpful.
  14. These bikes are very good trail/woods machines when set up for that style of riding. If you are a lighter rider I would reccomend lighter oil in forks or lighter springs. They tend to run rich with factory jetting so a rejet and new boyesen reeds sorted that easily. (see JD jet kit 'JDH005') I have done mods to cylinder/head to lower comp for pump gas and run a slightly hotter sparkplug with good results . There is a lot of info on TT on these bikes, spend some time looking and you will get some good advice/specs. Can give you more detailed info if needed, Hope this is helpful.
  15. Thanks heaps for the link zr7cat. Will check it out.