• Announcements

    • Bryan Bosch

      Buy/Sell/Trade/Wanted   01/18/2018

      Checkout our robust classifieds for amazing deals on bikes, parts, accessories, gear & apparel 

Dave Haehn

Members
  • Content count

    16
  • Joined

  • Last visited

Community Reputation

10 Good

About Dave Haehn

  • Rank
    TT Newbie

Profile Information

  • Gender
    Male
  • Location
    Colorado
  • Interests
    Old enduros and dual sport. Also restore classic road bikes.

Recent Profile Visitors

127 profile views
  1. Spark is only one element, You need compression, fuel and timing. Is the gas on? Do you have compression? How old is the gas? Is the spark plug wet?
  2. A picture is worth 1000 words, please upload a photo
  3. Whatever u do, don' let any laces get in the chain or sprocket. You can't buy new feet because you were cheap 🏍
  4. Check the cylinder and head, if they are gouged u will have to send them in to have weld filled and plated, figure $250 to $300 for that. Why do you think the crank is bent? I have never seen a bent crank. If bottom end is still good u can clean out piston fragments with compressed air and oil/gas mix as a washout. Might have to turn bike upside down and turn crank to move things around in the case to get all fragments to fall out. MAKE SURE YOU GET EVERYTHING! If bottom end and cylinder are truly fried them bike is likely not worth fixing. Top end blows up a lot on 2 strokes while bottom end is not impacted.
  5. Not sure about fuel injected but on the old carb bikes we would pull the plug and kick it several times to clear the fuel out of the cylinder when it flooded bad.
  6. Regarding the exhaust, let me clarify. Did you take the pipe off and check for buildup? Can you run a wire or cable through the down pipe section to ensure no obstructions exist? Based on everything you did so far I am running out of ideas. I think you need to find a way to isolate the cause, is it fuel delivery or something else? That is why I suggesed swaping the carb if you can borrow one.
  7. You might want to consider the winter fuels your using. In some places fuels are modified for winter to reduce polution also they tend to sit in the tank a long time. In general get fresh high octane fuel from a place that sells a lot of gas and it does not sit in inventory long.
  8. You hear a knock and then it goes away when warmed up? A bad crank or bearings won't go away, they only get worse. I guess u need to isolate where the knock is comming from. Top or bottom left or right? Not enough info to guess what is going on.
  9. You can get these cheep chinese knockoffs on ebay for $20 to $30. Easy job If your willing to take out the airbox and replace it with a uniFilter. Not sure what size you need for a 250 but guess a 28mm or 38mm PWK will work. Once you put the side covers back on the modification is not noticable. I got everything on ebay for under $100, no regrets, the bike never ran this good.
  10. Is the case oil clear? Any sign of gas in case? Have u used a temp clear fuel line to ensure fuel is flowing? Is air vent in gas cap open? Did u shake the floats and ensure they don' have a hole? Are u absolutey sure on the float height? What is the compression? What kind of premix oil do u use and what ratio? Any change when air filter or exhaust pipe is removed? Is the gas fresh? I realize some of these are basic dumb questions but we need to eliminate the obvious. Do u have accss to another carburetor just to isolate the cause?
  11. Pictures are attached, by the way a 70mm elbow would fit better, the 63mm is kinda tight. Also forgot to mention I used a stock throttle cable from a 03 yz125. Call it FrankenBike but it starts easy and rips on the trails.
  12. I have to say, I also fought with the CV carb and hard starts on my 91 DR 350s. I finally changed out the carb with a 38mm PWK on ebay for $38, a jet kit and throttle cable were another $15. I removed the air box and added a uni filter by using an old 63mm 45 degree silicone hose from my f250 diesel. Now my bike usually starts on the 1st or 2nd kick. It has plenty of torque and top end power. No more problems with ranging idle, bogs or flat spots. The worst part of the older DRs is the CV carburator. I think suzuki used them to tame the bike throttle response. I want the bike to jump when I twist the grip and a carb change did the trick. I can upload pics if you want..
  13. Does it pop if u shoot it with starting fluid? If not disconnect the kill switch and compression release.
  14. The behavior you describe indicates somehing may be binding In the throtle. Is the cable binding due to wear, dirt, pinch? How does it run with the gas tank off and moving the bars? Is the throttle tube clean and rubber grip free from the housing? When you move the cable does the RPM change?
  15. I have used hotrods and wieseco, from now on I will go oem. Just go to motosport or rockymountain and order it. Be at your door In 2 days. I think it is more important to Install it correctly. Use a case splitter and crank puller to ensure you don't damage case or cause undue stress on the new crank. Every crank rebuild failure that I have seen were all due to improper reassembly. Don't get tempted to pull the case halfs together by tightening the screws, pull them together with a crank puller and your rebuild will last a long time. Good luck.