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D.j. Gardner

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About D.j. Gardner

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    TT Member

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    NHHA, Hare Scrambles, Enduro,

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  1. Two ways I’ve fixed that (outside of learning proper clutch control): 1) Rekluse Clutch (basically acts like a properly controlled clutch) 2) The map that was shared earlier in this thread (if you ride a 19 450FX).
  2. I understand what you're saying...but I haven't experienced that virtually at all. I'd put my bikes in 3rd gear, just to avoid wheel spin, and creep my way up a hill (for example)...no flame outs. It's one of the perks of the clutch.
  3. My experience has been much different. I've ran a rekluse on 3 different bikes, over the past 5 years (one CORE EXP 2.0, and two different CORE EXP 3.0's), and never had any issues with flame outs-maybe twice that I can think of-(or stalling for that matter). Even on my 15 KX450 (which flamed out like crazy) the Rekluse eliminated the problem. And I've never needed the clutch to keep the RPM's smooth either (I still feather the clutch for all the other reasons you'd need too, but never to keep the RPM's smooth). That clutch is like cheating...in almost every way.
  4. When it comes to arm pump...it's almost always technique-or lack of it. (There are exceptions...the best riders in the world deal with it sometimes, and certainly their technique is on point...but speaking of amateur riders/weekend warriors). The most common culprits, in my experience (personal and observed): -Holding your breath...even when we think we are breathing, we are holding our breath -Relax...not just your hands, but your wrists, elbows, shoulders, neck, and hips. -Support your body with your legs and core muscles...not with your hands (for amateur riders we almost always need to stand more than we do). -Not technique related...but more seat time. Work on those things...it's not flashy, and its not easy...but it works.
  5. Shoot man, I'm an A level (30+ Vet) 180 lbs....and it has to much power for me in tight single track... (Though I do love that map that Timo2824 shared. It's a great single track map.) I also had an 09 YZ450...the power on that bike was just about perfect for me about 70% of the time. These new 450's are fire breathers. But I LOVE being able to switch maps on the fly...it's like riding two bikes at the same time.
  6. I tried that map today...and I came away VERY impressed. It tamed that initial hit to an almost perfect level. In tight trees I felt like I could actually “charge” because the bike wasn’t jumping out from under me. I ran one of my favorite trails, with Strava today and had several PR’s and even a KOM. I will say though that after running the stock map, the first log crossing I came to running your map (without that big hit) didn’t go so well as the front tire didn’t come off the ground...lol. I had it down for the next log crossings (just had to be more aggressive on the throttle.) Thanks for that reference. It tames the 450 power down to about perfection for tight woods riding. In fact, though I've only ridden one for about 30 minutes, down low, the power delivery felt very much like a KTM 300XC. This helped a TON! I can’t believe I didn’t think of that. Thanks for mentioning it. Edit: I should add, that turning up the idle also helped with the starting issues.
  7. Thanks! I’ll give it a shot. ive been having so many flame out issues that I’m seriously considering a Rekluse clutch. I’ll put a lot more hours on before I do that though.
  8. I’ve been trying to come to terms with mine the past couple months (I bought it new in August). the thing I’ve found is that the “mild map” flames out way to easy and stalls all the time. So I’ve been trying to manage with the stock map...which doesn’t flame out, but is just to much power. on that map you created...how is the flame out?
  9. Shane Watts teaches that the best way to get weight on the back wheel is to stand as use the pegs as a fulcrum to leverage the back wheel by leaning back. standing...especially in sand...isn’t over rated at all. )Watch Jeffrey Herlings ride sand...he is standing almost the entire time)...it’s how bikes were designed to be ridden, and they work best standing. the best off road riders in the world stand almost all the time.
  10. Related to this... I know guys that have A level talent (can ride advanced stuff with ease)...but aren't fast, they don't race, they don't have a desire to race, and don't try and go fast...and so they've never worked on going faster, just on being a better rider. So I do think its possible to be a great rider, but not be "fast". So if you don't race, and don't have a desire to race...I wouldn't worry so much about A, B, C, D...just work on being a better-more technically sound-rider. The beauty of riding dirt bikes, is the better you get at it, the more places you can go. There is really no ceiling. A, B, C, D, is all about how fast a rider is...and as a result, to a certainty extent, is only a gauge of speed, not nessecarily of talent and ability, therefore it is only relevant if you race. All fast guys are great riders, but not all great riders are fast.
  11. I ran flexbars on three different bikes for 5 years (the exact same set)...on a riding trip I crashed and broke them (after many many crashes without them so much as bending)...stopped by the closest dealership and bought some regular renthals...I couldn't tell the difference between the bars. in my opinion, the flex bars are entirely over-rated and not worth the extra money. They are a Utah company, and so many guys around here use them...and all those guys say they are the best thing ever, so I got a pair...I say all those guys are crazy. They don't save your wrists on hard impacts, they do nothing for arm pump...They are very tough though. They are heavy and they make it hard to adjust your clickers. I'd say not to waste your money.
  12. This is a great video for every rider...Such an important part of riding technique that is drastically overlooked.
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