chuck12345

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About chuck12345

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  1. i got the Q. Doesn't matter. I had a 75 XL175. its a great bike for off road and trails. its not anything like a YZ but thats ok. buy it and ride it was my point.
  2. i had a 75 honda xl175 way back. It was a great trail rider, low rpm, easy to work on and low maintanance. Check it out real good. Listen to the valves, timing chain and run it through the gears. Run the plates and vin through DMV. If it's good and evrything works buy it.
  3. your having a lot of probs with that carb. look it over good and make sure it clean. maybe get a new float needle valve. if its a CV carb look at the rubber diaphram in the slide., it might have a hole in it.
  4. so whats goin on? have you had time to work on it? what are the final jets you settled on?
  5. just a suggestion. did you do rebuild kit on the carb and replace the float needle valve. is it leaking fuel out the bowl area? they leak and overflow making a rich mixture. it cant be fixed. the seat is worn out. messing with the float level is a waste of time. at 6500ft factory jetting will be too rich.
  6. if you want a low maintance bike for off road mountain and trail riding get a low RPM 4cycle that has been maintained in nice condition. if you want to go fast and hotdog jumps get a YZ or something like it.
  7. no i dont know what the original factory jets were. i would use that as a starting point because factory jetting is usually not good and very lean. try and keep the needle in the middle so it will give an option of lean or go more rich in either direction. you might need to change the needle to a smaller tapper and use washers to raise/lower because they usually dont have notches. the factory needles have a wide tapper. not good for mods and better jetting. do a search on the year of that bike and see what comes up. heres a link. https://www.google.com/search?rlz=1C1OKWM_enUS777US777&ei=hFHKWsGsPNGusAXyiZg4&q=dr+250+factory+jetting&oq=dr+250+factory+jetting&gs_l=psy-ab.3...22294.22294.0.23346.1.1.0.0.0.0.81.81.1.1.0....0...1.1.64.psy-ab..0.0.0....0.E7-YCQsqt-U
  8. if it gets fuel, air and a spark at the right time it should run. you are probably too lean on the fuel. you need to increase all the jets. you have huge increase in air but did not increase the fuel. you changed everything. depending on how much you opened up the air flow increase the main by 20, increase the pilot 10 and put the air screw back to 2 turns and see where it goes. if you want you can raise and lower the main jet needle. jetting is very time consuming especially after doing mods like opening up the air flow and exhaust. it changes everything on the fuel air ratio and tuning.
  9. it's a little more than i expected. How much more do you think a kick start on the factory assembly line might have pushed the price up? I don't think anybody would complain.
  10. >>>>>You have split the case no matter what.<<<<<<well that's no good. was hoping to do the basics of remove the clutch side cover, remove the clutch and basket then maybe a few tweaks then reassemble. ok, thanks for your time. i guess ill close this and leave it alone. anybody else want to add to this?
  11. dont need to split the case if i use the 80's dr200 kit but will need to split the case if i use anything else? cant find anything here in the US. you know more about this. could you give me an email so i can contact the trojan in Australia you mentioned and anymore you have that might work? Is there anything here in the US that might work? thanks......
  12. Been shopping around for a kick start kit for a 07 Suzuki DR200se dual sport. It has only electric start. I get it and all for shaving weight and cut manufacturing costs but it's a good idea to have a kick start on any off-road bike. I tried bump starting with the clutch to see if it will start. Didn't work so well. Too much compression even in a higher gear like 3rd. Pop the clutch the rear tire will lock up and drag in the dirt. 1. Anybody have any ideas or know where to get the kick start kit for this bike? 2, I think the DRZ400 has a kit available. Do you think the crankcase and the kit might the same for the 400 to the 200?
  13. just a suggestion. i dont recall you saying how old the bike is and how long has it been since the carb has been rebuilt and the float needle valve replaced. Float needle valves leak out the overflow, run rich etc,....when get a little old, worn & corroded. ..... if you let the bike sit for a long time with gas in the bowl of the carb it will make it worse. If its leaking i would guess the float needle valve is worn out creating a leak out the overflow, vents and around the bowl. My bike just recently had a carb rebuild. It was leaking out the vents and bowl. A fresh rebuild with a new float valve did the fix. i have seen a lot cars with the same problem with gas leaking from everywhere. the float needle valve is done. Try a new float needle valve if its old. Its a lot of work but i drain the tank and the carb after im done.
  14. i have an 07 DR200se. I keep reading posts about the lean jetting from the factory. i had the same problems with jetting at sea level and higher elevations 2500ft and higher with blueing of the header pipe. From what i have read and heard around from different sources this is somewhat normal because of cheaper manufacturing. You need to get the jetting somewhere in the correct range for sea level and higher elevations. 07 year had a CV31bst. It was so lean. When i opened it up it had a 125main and i think a 25 pilot. At this time for higher elevations above 2500ft I bumped up the pilot to a 35/37.5, the main to 135 and raised the needle with washers because it had only the one slot. It's close but could be better. Runs ok for off-road use. I left it factory original with the factory air box and filter. It's too lean back at sea level - 500ft with the normal idle problems and the other problems with too lean. For sea level i got some bigger jets. I will probably try a 140-145 main and a 40pilot keeping the needle raised a little then just bump down the jets for higher elevations. It is fairly easy. Loosen the clamps on the ends of the carb and roll it over on it's side and remove the bowl. To remove the top for the main jet needle roll it on its side. The other idea is to bump up the jets to a 40pilot and 140- 145main then raise and lower the needle. If you have an after market free flowing breather you will need to bump up the jets. Whatever way you decide to do this jetting thing has been very time consuming. Different regions where you live will effect the jetting. Take a look at the plug to see how it is burning. I take 2 readings. One at idle then the other at full throttle rev in a higher gear then shut it down. Good luck. then
  15. i know this thread is a little old. try cleaning the rubber diaphram really good then use rubber contact cement like bicycle tube repair cement with a some heavy gauge flexible plastic. if the hole is too big it may or may not work because of the gas. I did this and it seemed to work. It had a small hole at the top by the lip of the cap.