chuck12345

Members
  • Content count

    21
  • Joined

  • Last visited

Community Reputation

3 Neutral

About chuck12345

  • Rank
    TT Newbie

Profile Information

  • Location
  1. edit
  2. edit
  3. i had a bike that had the same problem. started cold ok, but would not restart when running for awhile. it was way too lean, running hot and the header pipe turned blue. 1.. did u do a plug check? 2. is the pipe turning colors like a blue at the header? 3.. does it have unstable idle always adjusting the idle?
  4. yeah, i was goin' with the same idea. i have seen videos of bikes going off road into a river past the engine but the bike was insulated and had a snorkel. 1. will it or will it not high pressure washing, soap and water will get into all the electrical connections and cause problems? 2. doesnt the electrical need to be insulated for pressure washing and submersion in water?
  5. even motorcycles are falling under EPA smog. I just wanted to bring to your attention to ask before you modify, remove the airbox and change thiings.
  6. just asking. what year is it and does have any smog on it? if you take the smog controls off, and remove the airbox it wont be street legal anymore.
  7. i got the Q. Doesn't matter. I had a 75 XL175. its a great bike for off road and trails. its not anything like a YZ but thats ok. buy it and ride it was my point.
  8. i had a 75 honda xl175 way back. It was a great trail rider, low rpm, easy to work on and low maintanance. Check it out real good. Listen to the valves, timing chain and run it through the gears. Run the plates and vin through DMV. If it's good and evrything works buy it.
  9. your having a lot of probs with that carb. look it over good and make sure it clean. maybe get a new float needle valve. if its a CV carb look at the rubber diaphram in the slide., it might have a hole in it.
  10. so whats goin on? have you had time to work on it? what are the final jets you settled on?
  11. just a suggestion. did you do rebuild kit on the carb and replace the float needle valve. is it leaking fuel out the bowl area? they leak and overflow making a rich mixture. it cant be fixed. the seat is worn out. messing with the float level is a waste of time. at 6500ft factory jetting will be too rich.
  12. if you want a low maintance bike for off road mountain and trail riding get a low RPM 4cycle that has been maintained in nice condition. if you want to go fast and hotdog jumps get a YZ or something like it.
  13. no i dont know what the original factory jets were. i would use that as a starting point because factory jetting is usually not good and very lean. try and keep the needle in the middle so it will give an option of lean or go more rich in either direction. you might need to change the needle to a smaller tapper and use washers to raise/lower because they usually dont have notches. the factory needles have a wide tapper. not good for mods and better jetting. do a search on the year of that bike and see what comes up. heres a link. https://www.google.com/search?rlz=1C1OKWM_enUS777US777&ei=hFHKWsGsPNGusAXyiZg4&q=dr+250+factory+jetting&oq=dr+250+factory+jetting&gs_l=psy-ab.3...22294.22294.0.23346.1.1.0.0.0.0.81.81.1.1.0....0...1.1.64.psy-ab..0.0.0....0.E7-YCQsqt-U
  14. if it gets fuel, air and a spark at the right time it should run. you are probably too lean on the fuel. you need to increase all the jets. you have huge increase in air but did not increase the fuel. you changed everything. depending on how much you opened up the air flow increase the main by 20, increase the pilot 10 and put the air screw back to 2 turns and see where it goes. if you want you can raise and lower the main jet needle. jetting is very time consuming especially after doing mods like opening up the air flow and exhaust. it changes everything on the fuel air ratio and tuning.
  15. it's a little more than i expected. How much more do you think a kick start on the factory assembly line might have pushed the price up? I don't think anybody would complain.