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About john170950

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  1. john170950

    2004 ttr 225 street legal increase top speed

    On my 2005 TTR230 I went up one tooth from 13 stock to 14, it just barely fit in the enclosure without having to trim anything. If I go to 15 I'll have to trim or leave the cover off and the sprocket exposed.
  2. john170950

    Some pics of my 2005 TTR230 after restoration / mods

    Yeah definitely, last year I took off the original pirelli's from a 2005, 13 years of hardening. You could not easily tell the tires had no air pressure, they were solid.
  3. john170950

    TTR250 throttle bog

    I think I was wrong about the vacuum lines, its for something else (my bike has a vac hose that goes from the front to the back of the carb, , deceleration maybe). I looked at the 250 manual, I don't think your carb has that.
  4. john170950

    TTR250 throttle bog

    lol 230 also has a teikei with an accelerator. might be one of the smaller bikes without?
  5. john170950

    TTR250 throttle bog

    The 250 has a teikei y30p, which does have an accelerator pump. Maybe you have a vacuum leak and the diaphragm is not getting actuated, or the vac hose to the carb is blocked and the diaphram is not getting actuated that way. Or the diaphram has a leak?
  6. john170950

    Ttr250 will not cold start after full carb rebuild

    oh wait a minute, you said your choke has an adjustment?
  7. john170950

    Ttr250 will not cold start after full carb rebuild

    Do you have the service manual? Chapter 5 is carburetor, I just had a look, its almost the same as the 230, a teikei y30p. https://www.manualslib.com/manual/999893/Yamaha-Ttr250l.html This is for 1999 model, but likely ok for 2005. there is no choke adjustment, as long as its clean it will work. Check the float bowl fuel level, might be too low.
  8. john170950

    Ttr250 will not cold start after full carb rebuild

    What carb does the 250 have? (the 230 has a teikei, which I am familiar with)... Do you have a service manual?
  9. john170950

    Ttr250 will not cold start after full carb rebuild

    Similar problem with my ttr230 when I got it and rebuilt the carb. the choke was not getting gas because a small pinhole channel in the bottom of the float bowl was blocked. took a while to notice that as I had blasted all channels and ports with carb cleaner and compressed air and thought that was enough. the air probably pushed the gunk deeper onto the channel. cleared it with a small piece of copper wire now starts no prob when below freezing.
  10. john170950

    TTR 50 run w/o oil, won't start

    many places you can order parts, partzilla.com is one I use, there are many similar. TT has one also: https://thumpertalk.com/shop/oem.php You can probably find the work shop manual at manualslib, like this one: https://www.manualslib.com/products/Yamaha-Tt-R50e-3060101.html Good luck..
  11. john170950

    TTR 50 run w/o oil, won't start

    He tried with starter fluid, no go, its not the carburetion, its the lack of compression. Possibly just rings and a valve job, might need a new piston, maybe a new head, will have to take apart the top end to know for sure, not difficult work if you have the time. How old is he? Time to introduce him to wrenching?
  12. john170950

    TTR 50 run w/o oil, won't start

    Did you drain the oil to see if there were any metal bits in it? Chances are the lower end is ok, but the top end will need work. you either need rings or valves or both. Can you do the oil test and see if the compression goes up?
  13. john170950

    TTR230 electric start issue

    no decompression lever on the 230.
  14. john170950

    TTR 225 Headlight Suggestions

    First attempt, 2 of these small pod LED lights. https://www.ebay.com/itm/High-Power-12W-12V-Super-Bright-Motorcycle-Led-Light-Fog-Spot-White-Headlight-/273566097458?hash=item3fb1cf6032 not great photo you get the idea, they are bolted onto the shock tube clamps. Second attempt, I made a bracket for a box to carry stuff, you can see the tach and a push/pull 3 position switch for the lights. and put the LED bar under it. much better light This one: https://www.ebay.com/itm/36W-6000K-LED-Work-Light-Bar-Driving-Lamp-Fog-Off-Road-SUV-Cars-Boat-Truck-SUV-/401470545230?hash=item5d79825d4e I'm going to remove the box and the upper bracket, after using it I don't like that top bar of steel being there, don't want to bash my face into it if I have a spill. But I am going to keep the lower assembly with the LED bar.
  15. john170950

    TTR 225 Headlight Suggestions

    It's still a work in progress but I can dig up some photos later tonight. One thing to consider it's not the battery capacity you need to worry about but the charging system/ stator's ability to keep the battery charged. All the battery has to do is start the motor (does the 225 have a kick start? the 230 does not), so you want to ensure you get a good 14+ volts with the engine running and all your accessories turned on. My setup with LED running lights, LED headlight, digital tach and a 2 amp USB charger will slowly drain the battery at idle, about 13 volts at 1800 rpm, but when riding and running over 2000~3000 rpm I get good 14+ charging voltage.