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mhk

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About mhk

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    TT Member

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    Male
  • Location
    Oregon
  • Interests
    mountain biking, gravel riding, music, dirt bikes, street bikes

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  1. thanks for the info--this site is amazing. After going through the steps above, I turned it on and the motor actually idled at what sounded like normal rpm at first, then slowly crept up over the five minutes or so I let it run. I cut it off and repeated the set up process, and it still seemed a little high, but I ran out of time. I have not even touched the red idle screw, however. another note for anyone installing a tuner map like JD or Vortex: make sure you check your bolts after the first ride. one of my ignition assembly bolts had worked loose and was leaking oil enough that it took a while to figure out where it was coming from, and my buddy's rear axle bolt had loosened so much he could remove it by hand.
  2. I've read through some threads where 500 EXCs were idling high after installing Vortex ECU. Earlier this week I desmogged/uncorked my 350 EXC and installed Vortex with default settings (map 1 and low, med, high set to 5), following start-up instructions that came with the ECU (start bike, don't touch throttle, allow engine to get to operating temp, then rev it a few times and return to idle). Idle seemed normal. After a couple rides it now sounds like the idle is high. Every once in a while it seems to return to normal, but not always, and I'm missing the engine braking coming into corners. Anyone have experience with this? I guess I'll turn in the idle screw until it sounds normal, but without a tach it will be a guess. I guess my question is whether the Vortex is "set" at initialization, or will it continue to adjust amount of fuel at idle even after I turn the screw?
  3. I will remove the bracket when I replace the chain, I guess. The bolts are too long to free up with the chain installed (on the 350 at least).
  4. Nope--just trying to read up on it, and had the exhaust/rear spring off while desmogging, so wanted to take care of it at the same time, if it was a go. I left it as-is.
  5. Another thing: I ended up leaving the crankcase vent hose routed to the airbox. If I'm longing for more hp in the middle of the summer next year, maybe I'll vent it to the bottom of the bike. I plan to ride through winter, and the warm air shouldn't hurt. So much fine dust here in Central OR that penetrates absolutely everything, I just don't want to worry about it. Read a couple stories about people getting stuck in mud and the hose drawing muddy water as the bike cooled before it was unstuck. Also read about guys with no problems venting to air over hundreds of offroad hours . . .
  6. Update: The brass fitting was no problem to remove. Multiple WD40 applications and care to make sure the 8mm deep socket is squared up. Took a while to work it out, but I was erring on the conservative side. Another hint: make sure you're well-protected before trimming back the fiberglass packing while installing (or reinstalling) the end cap. It really gets into the air and makes a mess of things--paying for it today a little bit. Question: Do people generally remove the bracket that the air valve assembly is attached to? I somehow missed that in the videos, but those bolts look pretty hard to reach. Looks kind of silly sitting there doing nothing. Bottom line: the bike rips, and has a new throaty growl that sounds mean. Low speed throttle modulation--especially coming on and off idle--is the best part about this upgrade, as I prefer riding twisty single track. Grabbing a handful through a turn is the second best part--she really comes alive smoothly but quickly, with gusto. The bike seems just generally happier overall, which is a real turn-on.
  7. It's going to be hot air blowing into the air box, however--especially during the summer, which can rob the engine of hp, right? I'm resurrecting this thread because I'm in the midst of a desmog/uncork/vortex project on my 2018 KTM 350 EXC-F and trying to figure out whether to reroute. Not a lot of recent posts on this subject that I can find.
  8. For any noob moto wrencher doing the desmog/uncork/vortex, I have a few suggestions, now that I'm almost finished with the project: 1) You'll need a deep well 8mm socket to remove the brass fitting below the throttle body on the right side of the bike (underneath the motor mount bracket that you'll remove from the frame). I didn't have the deep well socket, so I hit a road block. I anticipate this fitting will take patience to get rid of, judging from the second video below and other warnings I've read, so take some time with it, using WD40 and turning the fitting back in each time resistance is felt, before backing it out a little more each time until it's free. 2) If you're installing a Vortex ECU, you'll need to seal the leftover electrical fitting from the air valve assembly (located behind the front/counter sprocket). The guy in the second video below cut off a few fingers from his nitrile gloves and covered the fitting, then taped it and routed it into the airbox, which seemed like a good way to take care of it. 3) The 45m Torx driver supplied with KTM tool kit is junk--I torqued mine bent removing the rear spring bolts (should have used a socket) while installing a stiffer spring when I first acquired the bike. Make sure you have a better one, because some of these bolts are round and can't be removed with a socket, and are loctited into the frame. You'll also need blue loctite to reinstall these bolts. 4) The removal of parts (seat, tank, plastics, exhaust, canister, hoses, reeds, etc.) isn't difficult--just expect it to take some time if you're relatively new to this. 5) Here are two vids I found particularly helpful: The first is specific to the 350 In this one the guy's working on a 500, and installing a Vortex Right now I'm pretty sure I have everything completed except the brass fitting removal, plugging the remaining hole with a bolt and crush washer from my de-smog "kit," and reassembly of the bike. As I said before, it wasn't difficult--just time consuming for me. I do have a question: Should I reroute the crankcase air vent hose from the airbox to under the bike? Seems like a hotly contested issue: pros say it's just putting more dirty, warm air into your air box (see first vid); cons say it's potential trouble if dirt/contaminants get into the hose, and the crankcase exhaust shouldn't be problematic if your engine is working properly. Thanks in advance
  9. I've thumbed through the "official 500 de-smog sticky," and think I've got the picture. Vortex/PMB arrive on Monday and I'll have the kit necessary for de smog by then, too; just wondering if there's anything in the process significantly different on the 350 motor vs the 500. Consider my noob moto wrenching status as you reply. I worry about stupid things like dropping bits of plastic down the air boot when I remove the reeds. Thanks in advance.
  10. Was riding the power line between Bend and Sunriver and happened across a fairly large cinder/gravel pit that I had somehow never noticed before. In addition to a multi-acre excavated area which includes ramps, run-ups, sidehill cuts and lots of features to romp around on, there are two urinals, a parking area, and a huge hexagonal rock with a hole drilled in the middle with the words "The Pit" spray painted on it. Looks like a fun place to play around, but the entrance (which is not the way I accessed it) is marked with "Area Closed" and "No Trespassing--closed to the public" (or something along those lines) signs. Anybody know anything about this? Was it ever an ORV spot, or just an extraction area for sand and gravel?
  11. I mostly ride Chainbreaker single track (Snowy Creek Ditch is the highlight) and other trails East of the sisters and West of Highway 20, and double track between Bend and Sisters (Three Creeks/Tam Macarthur/Triangle Butte), up to Happy Valley and down to Tumalo Falls--that has kept me busy over the past year or so (I'm new to the sport), and the access is 3 miles from my garage.
  12. that looks like black butte/ mt jeff in the background. you must be in the Bend area? Me too. I don't have an '07 but I'm about 230 geared up and put heavier springs on my 2018 350 exc-f. Rear spring was about $130, and front springs were about $110 (from Slavens Racing--their website has a loaded rider weight chart, or you can just give them a call). Install is easy, and well-documented on YouTube. I set the sag according to the owner's manual, and you can tweak it from there. Hit me up if you want to ride sometime.
  13. Am I sure that it doesn't mention the sight glass in the "changing the oil" section as trumping the 1 liter refill instruction for proper oil refill? Yes. Listen--I'm not trying to get into a pissing match about it; I'm just trying to figure out whether I'm screwing up my bike by putting in 1 liter when I change my oil, and if the oil in the boot is a sign of a bigger problem. Hopefully it's rim grease residue (I don't use more than a small bead), or nothing to worry about. Thanks for all the feedback. I know I have a lot to learn--just trying to maintain the bike like I should.
  14. My filter oil is pinkish, but I guess if it was exposed to a little dust, or oozed from a filter with some dirt in it, it could appear brown. This would bum me out because the oil was inside the air boot and I hate the thought of dirt getting past the filter. If the sight glass is the better indicator of the appropriate amount of oil, it kind of ticks me off that the owner's manual doesn't mention it. I acquired a 1000 mL measuring cup for this express purpose, and I guess I don't understand how this can be too much, especially if I went by the book. I don't know . . . if I blow a gasket, I'm going to blow a gasket.
  15. I realize a liter is more volume than a quart, but the manual says the oil capacity is 1000 ml, or 1 liter.
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