Jump to content

mzvarner

Members
  • Content Count

    34
  • Joined

  • Last visited

About mzvarner

  • Rank
    TT Member

Profile Information

  • Location
    Washington

Recent Profile Visitors

The recent visitors block is disabled and is not being shown to other users.

  1. I am riding a plated 2015 WR250F and would like to add a USB charger so I can power my cell phone/ mapping software (OnX). Is it possible to add the linked USB charger in line with the main on/off switch for the light kit? https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B01N6S2SNM/ref=ox_sc_act_title_1?smid=A2JU42WM4PJ26Q&psc=1 I am hoping to have the switch turn on the function of the light kit and the USB charger. I don't always have the horn and blinkers on, and this charger has a constant LED light when attached to power, that could lead to a dead battery if forgotten and left on. So instead of adding more crap to the handlebar, why not just use what is already there? If so, should I use both 10A fuses, or is the one from the light kit sufficient? What would be the correct way to splice into the wires. Red to red after the fuse, Black to black after the switch? I am not very knowledgeable with electrical projects, so I am trying to work through this. I seem to remember reading that the wiring kit is DC coming from the battery, and because of that it doesn't actually control the high/ low beam of the stock headlight because that is running off AC from the stater? After a 100 mile ride in North Wa near Sullivan lake this weekend, I can see myself gravitating towards a Vstrom or similar because I seem to be adding things to make the WR do longer adventure rides. A dirt bike is only so comfortable and I seem to be asking more than what its really meant to do.
  2. Good to know, thank you. I did use sealed bearings. Thanks for the explanation of the brake cover. The bike seems to ride mich smoother now. How often should these be replaced? A friend said they should last 10 years. Its cheap and easy so once a season dosnt seem crazy.
  3. Is there something im missing that this could go on, or is it a generic bearing pack. I forgot to add the the previous owner installed an Aceribis front brake protector, so im not sure if it removed a part. I am unable to find the install directions online.
  4. I have had a squeal coming from the front end for a while. Tried re-greasing the bearings, but when I put the wheel back on I noticed a decent amount of axial play. I ordered a front and rear replacement set from RM ATV (all balls) but the front comes with an extra seal/ gasket. Looking at the manual I only see a seal on the brake side, and I sure dont recall removing one of this diameter. This kit is made for many models so I assume its for some other bike, but just checking that its not supposed to go in the speed sensor (again not in the manual, but things happen). I have a long weekend ride coming up and need to get it fixed. Edit: Bike now runs great. There was an undulation on the front end at street speeds. I figured it was from dirt bike tires not being balanced. The squeal is gone too.
  5. Not to high jack, but curious what size and how you carry your Rotopax. I am surprised that I have not seen more riders use these. I carry a 1 or 2 gallon depending on who I ride with. It sits on a rear fender rack, and occasionally gets in the way.
  6. I do have the service manual, and i used it sometime last winter when i took time to tune the bike up for the season. I DID NOT install the wrong bearing, just mixed them up in my memory. Actually havent installed or removed any bearings, just re-packed with grease. I plan on keeping the bike for as long as i can. No real need to do away with it, but i am curious about what a 2 stroke would be like.
  7. I got it figured out. Was getting my bearings mixed up. I took apart my linkage at the same time i did the wheels.
  8. Nailed it. I forgot i also took apart the swing arm to clean and grease it at the same time. Thanks for bearing with me and my noob questions.
  9. Put it all back together following the front wheel alignment procedure (compressing suspension before tightening everything) that I forgot about last time I had it all apart. There is definitely lateral play, so I will look into replacing bearings next. Looking at the schematic, I am not sure what the "roller rods" I speak of are. Maybe they are in the rear, but I do not see them there in the schematic either. I have attached a pic of what it looks like (for a mountain bike hub, since I didnt take my rear off). Begs the question should I remove them?
  10. As some may notice, I am new to dirt biking and have lots of beginner questions, so thanks for your patience. I recently had a front flat and had to take it off to "reset" the Tubliss system. Since it was off i was going to clean and grease the bearings and axle. I noticed on the inside of the hub there is a collar and this has some offset play in it (I can apply pressure to it and it moves in that direction). Underneath this collar is about 1 million little roller rods. I noticed the grease in the collar and on the axle appears to have a metallic appearance. I also notice a slight squealing when rolling slow, and have isolated it to the front wheel. Is this considered normal wear and tear? How often should i expect to re grease the axle? I bought the bike used 2 years ago (2015 wr250f) and this past winter i did basic maintenance including re packing the wheel bearings. The roller rods were unexpected at that time, but i know i got them all back in there.
  11. I updated the original post that I fixed it using multiple plugs and a tubliss reinstall. Thanks all.
  12. new to this so didnt know they make different size plugs, good to know. Yes i used the reamer and it was very easy to insert (should have been a clue). No tire sealant but i will be looking into it now. Do you just pull the valve core, add a certain volume, then when a puncture happens it "self repairs" noted, thanks for the tip. I was just listening for leaks
  13. 1. At the time of the ride it was 90-100 (or at least when i left the house). 2. The puncture is in the main part of the tread, not the sidewall. 3. I just used 1 plug, didn't consider needing more. That is going to be a real PITA. 4. The rim isn't too bad, and still holds air (i assume. no leaks from the bead.). I come from a heavy mtn bike bacground so straight rims were more important being smaller tires etc?
  14. Both front and rear are tubliss, installed a few years ago. Ran to low of pressure and pinch flatted. Used a repair kit and bulk Slime rubber cement to fix, but it still leaks. I am also seeing a leak from the tubliss valve stem. How do i proceed? The tire still has TONS of life left, and I know I can run 0 psi with tubliss, but that is in no way ideal. Also, front wheel looks like it took a little hit, Can I true this, or should I have a shop do it? EDIT: I fixed the issue using a 2nd plug. I also went through and did a "reinstall" of the front tubliss by pulling both valve cores, re-inflating HP bladder to 110 psi, using a syringe to add more soapy water through the valve into tire, install 2nd valve core, then inflating to 40psi and sloshing things around. I checked tread, plug repairs, beads, and valve bodies for leaks with soapy water then came back later and checked with a pressure gauge.
Ă—
Ă—
  • Create New...