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About Number1DAW

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  1. Number1DAW

    96 DR350S backfires

    I appreciate the thoughts. The only thing right now that I can think of, which I forgot to mention is that I do have an aftermarket DG exhaust which is wide open and really doesn't restrict any flow which the mikuni page talks about. I rode the bike for some 10 hours straight once I got it together without any problems. I'm about to start riding to work as much as possible to save on fuel. So until there are actually problems I won't be pulling the carb until this winter.
  2. Number1DAW

    96 DR350S backfires

    I spent the winter tearing apart my DR350 to sandblast and powder coat a bunch of parts that the years had long been showing on. Now the bike has always backfired and the previous owner thought it was an exhaust leak which he unsuccessfully plugged with red RTV (which I just smirk at). The cause of the exhaust leak was actually the fact that he had damaged the header gasket pretty bad during installation and no gasket between the header and midpipe. I fixed those while I was reassembling everything and the backfires were definitely quieter. I managed to get the bike together in time to ride with a buddy one last time before I left the PNW move to VA. I knew I needed to do a valve inspection but put it off until I got here so I could ride. Finally moved in I got the valvea adjusted to back within tollerance but the backfires are still there. I thought maybe the fuel is running lean but the bike has a mikuni BST33 and when I was looking at how to adjust fuel/air for it I came across a mikuni page that talks about backfires. http://www.mikuni.com/fs-tuning_guide.html So the exact scenario is that if I control the throttle down to idle I don't get backfires but if I just the the trottle return the carb to idle on its own real quick or pull it back real quick I will get backfires. Do other DR owners experience this?
  3. Number1DAW

    New DR350, several different questions!

    The clutch issue, I've heard tons of people say that having trouble finding neutral is just a DR thing. I've always had a little bit of trouble finding it, but once I figured it out I managed to find it pretty easily. Without hearing the knocking I wouldn't know. But here is my best bet on how to find it. With the bike warmed up and in neutral find where the knocking starts (an RPM) and see if it does it at the RPM in other gears as well as neutral. If so, you're looking at something in the top end. If not, something in the transmission.
  4. Number1DAW

    New DR350, several different questions!

    My bet is whoever sold you the bike tried to do some rewiring and screwed it up pretty bad and just tried to make back whatever money they put into it. You're best bet is to groom the front end and make sure every wire go to exactly what it's supposed to. If that all checks out find pull the seat off and the CDI unit is inside a rubber sleeve that slips onto the frame and a nipple on the top of the downtube that the upper shock attached to. Pull that whole unit out and take the rectifier off, (that's the thing that has a heat sink attached to it on the right side of the bike right next to the CDI, and make sure all of the wiring there is hooked up properly. My bet is someone in the past screwed something up and something is shorted out or hooked up wrong. Pretty much the only way the dash lights would all start blinking.
  5. Number1DAW

    New DR350, several different questions!

    Sometimes an offroad and a street legal version of a bike will have the exact same controls and harness because it cuts down on production costs from the beginning by not having to design two sets of parts, test two sets of parts, produce two sets of parts then install them. By using all the same parts then just leaving off turn signals then they save tons of money. Here's a color coded version of the wiring diagram that I've compared to what's in my manual and it all looks correct. Everything is color coded in the harness so if the wires are clean then you can figure out what they're for.
  6. Number1DAW

    New DR350, several different questions!

    Is the wire labeled neutral indicator switch the one you traced the two spares to?
  7. Number1DAW

    White smoke during warm up?

    Burning oil will make the exhaust more blueish or grey than white. As long as it's not a thick white smoke you're fine, it's probably just that when your engine is cold your mixture is a little fuel rich and the white is caused by unburnt fuel. When you choke it you're literally cutting the air supply. Try pulling the choke out just a hair less. If the smoke is grey or blue, make sure you don't have engine oil in your air box. Otherwise, If you aren't turning your bike upside down or riding on extremely aggressive terrain, there really is no reason for there to be engine oil in your air boot and is an early indicator for a more serious problem and may need a top end overhaul.
  8. Number1DAW

    New DR350, several different questions!

    I have a 96 DR350S as well so I should be able to help with most of this. 1.) My high beam indicator was always partially lit before I tore my bike apart. The indicator light is lit by your negative bus and a yellow wire which puts power to the high beams from your high beam switch. My guess is the bike being 22 years old, the switch has worn some and the contacts are close enough to act more like a resistor and you get a small amount of VDC to the indicator light as well. I wouldn't worry about it though. 2.) Take a picture of the wires going to the clutch. It may be for the neutral position switch, but that should only be one wire then a connection to ground on the other side of the switch. 3.) As for oil, here is my best advice. Use what the manufacturer recommends which is SAE 10w-40 Suzuki small engine oil. It's not expensive at all. And here's why you should use it. Your engine oil, is also your transmission oil and the manufacturer has oil formulated specifically for this purpose and the needs of the engine. 4.) Your turn signals may be a slightly more complicated situation. If you have a model that was factory designated as an offroad model then the turn signal wires may be taped up with the harness. The route for turn signal power is as such. From an orange and black wire off of your rectifier which eventually ties into an orange wire. It continues as an orange wire which is basically your common positive and goes to a ton of stuff but eventually makes it to the turn signal relay which if I remember correctly is an orange relay on the right side directly behind the heat sync for your rectifier. From the relay it becomes a light blue wire which goes to the six conductor quick connect plug for your left grip control assembly. It will go through your turn signal switch and come out as black for the left turn signal and light green for your right turn signal (there is dark green, light green, and green with a yellow stripe on the harness, don't get them mixed up.) From there is goes back into the same six conductor plug that the light blue from the relay came in, and then split going to both the front and rear turn signals. If you have these then it will most likely be in a quick connect that is paired with a wire that is black with a white stripe as it will go through the quick connect, to the lamp, and the negative bus is the black with a white stripe. I hope that wasn't too hard to follow, I'm not home right now and am typing all of this on my phone.
  9. Number1DAW

    Engine Mount Torque Specs

    So after taking an hour to take my mind off of this I thought about the parts list I had looked up and realized that the bolt on the parts list was an 8x70 mm for that mount. I went and measured my bolt and its 7x75 mm. I guess a previous owner probably broke or lost the original bolts and bought some cheap crap from the hardware store. I guess it's time to get some new hardware anyways.
  10. Number1DAW

    Engine Mount Torque Specs

    After a few months of having my 96 DR350S in pieces I finally completed blasting and powder coating early this week. I put the engine in this evening and I was torquing down all of the mounting bolts and as you can see from the first picture two snapped. The two in question are bolts numbered 6 in the torque specs. The low end being 27, I had my wrench set to 25 and the first broke, I checked my wrench to make sure it was set properly and even reset my wrench and the second one broke as well. I thought maybe I mixed up the bolts labeled 6 aren't actually long enough to work in the 7 spot. Does anyone have the ability to confirm these specs before I buy two new bolts and break them as well?