Jump to content

RDA71

Members
  • Content Count

    32
  • Joined

  • Last visited

About RDA71

  • Rank
    TT Member

Profile Information

  • Location
    California

Recent Profile Visitors

The recent visitors block is disabled and is not being shown to other users.

  1. The Q/S should function when the throttle is open. That's actually the point of a Q/S for upshifting. I've found that it actually works better (more smooth/seamless) at higher rpm and with harder acceleration, compared to using it for lazy riding. Accordingly, I use the clutch for riding normally around town, and use the Q/S when I'm riding hard. Also, I noticed that my transmission loosened up a lot during the break in period, and the Q/S works better now than when it was new.
  2. Yeah dude, tell me about it. Was the funniest thing I've seen in a long time. I was certain that I was seeing things or crazy. Or both. Anyway, the ass of the bike was tweaked, like a bike with a bent subframe. Since I was fairly certain I'd not crashed on the ride home on Friday, and the plastic tank/subframe shouldn't have bent even if I had, I was good and confused. Anyway, since the shape of the tank is not symmetrical, it distorts if under vacuum (or, I assume, under positive pressure as well). The bike has about 1k miles on it, so I've filled the tank a number of times already, and this is the first time I've seen any significant positive or negative pressure in the tank when opening the cap. I'm not sure if there is a check valve somewhere that has stuck, but the tank is not venting properly. I don't see any kinks in the vent hose.
  3. Anyone else notice any vapor lock or other tank venting problems on their bikes? I was in the garage earlier today and noticed the tail of the bike (rear fender, plate mount, taillight, etc.) was not straight, it was visibly twisted counterclockwise when looking at the bike from the rear. Finding this to be very odd, I started loosening up all of the attachment points for the fender and plate to the subframe/tank and was going to remove the rear fender. When I went to remove the gas cap to slide the fender off, I noticed the tank was under significant negative pressure (vacuum), so much so that when I was able to pull the cap off and the pressure equalized, the tank went back to more or less it's normal shape, which realigned the rear end of the bike. Weird. My evap system is all stock, as is the cap.
  4. I posted in another thread as well, but on my bike, the duration of the button press is the controlling factor. Needs to be 5 seconds, exactly. Not 3 to 5 like the manual says. Or around 5. Has to be 5 on the nose. Slightly less, or slightly longer than a 5 count, and it doesn't switch TC off/on, regardless of other conditions (at start up, after rolling away, clutch in, whatever). On the other hand, with a precise 5 count button press, my bike switches reliably, regardless of other conditions. Mashing the button is also not necessary. If you push normally you can feel when the button makes contact, and it doesn't require that much pressure.
  5. Interesting. That does sound like possibly excess crankcase pressure. Mine is only leaking from the C/S seal. The vent hose on these bikes is quite large, but relatively soft/pliable. Did you check to make sure yours was not kinked or pinched?
  6. In the past two days I've done a few rides on mine after having the C/S seal replaced and it is still leaking as much as before. Curious. I know other people with 690s/701s that have not had any such leak, and I find it hard to imagine that both the original and replacement seal on mine could be bad, so I'll be curious to see what the dealer tries next. If it's not the seal, it must be something more fundamental, like the surface of the countershaft itself is scored or slightly out of round where the seal sits, or the countershaft itself is not concentric in the bore of the seat for the seal, either of which would be substantially more involved to fix than replacing the seal...
  7. For what it is worth, I played with this a bit on my bike the other day and found that what matters most is the amount of time you press the TC button. I know the manual says 3-5 second push, but on my bike it needs to be a five count, exactly. A little less, or a little more, time than that and it won't switch, either on to off or the other way. I think the fact that the duration of the button push needs to be so precise is what is making people think it is inconsistent and looking for other factors (clutch in/out, hard/soft push, rolling/stationary, whatever). On my bike anyway, once you get the duration of the button press figured out, it switches reliably every time.
  8. I can understand that. If I were in the same position I'd be asking for a new bike rather than a refund though.
  9. Are you saying they want to try adding a seal on the inside of the case on the countershaft? Checking the parts diagram shows the only seal anywhere on that shaft is the one on the outside of the case behind the sprocket. My SMC R leaked from the countershaft seal from new as well, the same as others in this thread. Just recently brought it in for the first service and the dealer replaced the seal at that time. We'll see what happens. Not worth stressing about. As long as it is under warranty, give the dealer the opportunity to try and fix it. If they can't do so after a few tries, that's what lemon laws are for.
  10. Sounds good. You should definitely get that fixed.
  11. Hi Falk, You can refer to whichever source of information, or section of the manual, you prefer. If you want to go by the manual, I would suggest the full section on the ABS system (section 12.1) which uses much more complete language than the overview section you are referencing. Section 12.1 (which I posted earlier) is quite clear, the ABS light only comes on when there is a problem, or when ABS has been manually switched off; there is no explanation that it comes on when ABS is functioning. I know that this seems to disagree with the last sentence of section 6.12 that you are focusing on, but it matches with what I and others (and yourself...) are actually experiencing with the bikes. It is certainly not the first time ever that an owners manual has inconsistent or confusing wording. If none of this satisfies your curiosity, ask KTM directly through the 'contact' section on their corporate website. I've found them to be responsive and helpful. -R
  12. Good idea. True Value / Ace often has surprisingly good speciality hardware. If you are looking for an online source, I like McMaster Carr for specialty hardware and fasteners.
  13. Here you go. The 4 pin connector on top is for the tail light; the right side goes to the light, the left side to the harness. The 2 pin connector on the bottom is for the original license plate downlight; the right side originally went to the downlight, the left side goes to the harness. What you need to do is connect the yellow wire from the harness side of the downlight connector to the white wire on the light side of the tail light connector (the two wires circled). The easiest way to connect those two would be to use a simple quick splice connector (like these: http://tinyurl.com/y4kdnl26). I retained the original 2 pin connector and used a butt crimp to connect the necessary wires so that I can disconnect things easily if needed.
  14. The owners manual is pretty clear...the ABS light only comes on when moving if there is a problem, or if ABS is switched off, see screenshot below. As others have already mentioned, the ABS light does not come on when ABS is actively functioning on my bike either. Your bike is operating normally.
  15. I cut the appropriate wire from the tail light at the 4 pin connector and spliced it directly to the hot lead from the stock downlight (2 pin connector) rather than trying to modify the 4 pin connector on the harness side. I can take a pic if that helps..
×
×
  • Create New...