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joecallan

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About joecallan

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    California
  1. joecallan

    insurance paying for knee braces

    I've heard of this and I'm also wondering..?
  2. Hi, I'm thinking about buying a 04 WR250F. It only has 200 miles on it but the guy wants 4k for it. I'm wondering should I get this like new 04 or a used 07. What's your opinion? Is there a big difference besides alum frame? Thanks! Joe
  3. joecallan

    04 vs 06 wr450

    I'm wondering the same thing. I may have to choose between the same years.
  4. Thanks man, I bought one. I'll install it today... and tell everyone how it worked. I also bought a lead acid battery, because they are supposed handle the sh.. better.
  5. joecallan

    WR400 vent hose oil leak

    maybe the oil is over filled... also, I wouldn't take it apart if it's running fine.... if your valves are off, it will run like crap my 2 cents
  6. I have a question for the electrical wizards in here. I put on a Baja Designs kit on my WR400, 2000 in 2001. It worked great for like 1.5 years. Then the Ni-cad battery crapped out. I bought a new one and that one crapped out after about 1.5 years. NI-Cad 700mA = stock BD battery Crapped out = lights dim; and blinkers/horn won't work well, and now, not at all I was tired of the batteries crappying out, so I built a Ni_MH battery pack. I put it in and it worked for a few minutes then crapped out. Ni_MH 10cells at ~1100mA So, I thought my regulator couldn't charge it because I know that Ni_MH takes more power to charge. Then I decided to try a Capacitor to 4700uF 25V instead of messing with batteries (baja designs told me what size). It works but it's not enough to run the blinkers and the head light bulb is a little dim. I think this is because of an underlying problem. MY QUESTIONs: What could be the problem? How do I test the regulator to see if it's bad? How would I test the stator? Is the stator also called a lighting coil? What is a CDI magneto? I'm confused and ignorant. This stuffs new to me. Thanks for help in advance!!!!!
  7. I'm new to carb stuff. I've been researching it for a few days now. I think I have a feel for it book wise. My question: What should I change from STOCK and sea level to 8000feet in the Sierra National Park, CA? I couldn't find a chart for this bike and particular carb. Some definitions I don't understand completely : Hard Breathing? Zingy? Poppy? Cutting out vs. Bogging out? Crackling vs. Shuttering/rattling? Yamaha WR400 year 2000 It has all stock settings: Model: FCR Keihin Main jet: 165 Pilot Jet: 42 Fuel screw (turns out): pilot screw 1-5/8 Needle/Clip position: 3rd Airbox lid (on or off): off Pipe: stock Altitude where you ride:sea level, but taking trip to Sierra National Park 8000 ft + Temperature where you ride: 75 degrees Are you happy with your current configuration: Its okay at sea level now, just cuts out at the first part of the throttle and back fires some when I let off of 3/4+ throttle. I just want it to be okay for the Forest when I go 8000+ feet - no fouling plugs or lame stuff. THANK YOU FOR THE HELP IN ADVANCE! The people in this forum are AMAZING!
  8. I'm new to carburator stuff. I've been researching it for a few days now. I think I have a feel for it book wise. My question: What should I change from STOCK and sea level to 8000feet in the Sierra National Park, CA? I couldn't find a chart for this bike and particular carb. Some definitions I don't understand completely : Hard Breathing? Zingy? Poppy? Cutting out vs. Bogging out? Crackling vs. Shuttering/rattling? Yamaha WR400 year 2000 It has all stock settings: Model: FCR Keihin Main jet: 165 Pilot Jet: 42 Fuel screw (turns out): pilot screw 1-5/8 Needle/Clip position: 3rd Airbox lid (on or off): off Pipe: stock Altitude where you ride:sea level, but taking trip to Sierra National Park 8000 ft + Temperature where you ride: 75 degrees Are you happy with your current configuration: Its okay at sea level now, just cuts out at the first part of the throttle and back fires some when I let off of 3/4+ throttle. I just want it to be okay for the Forest when I go 8000+ feet - no fouling plugs or lame stuff. THANK YOU FOR THE HELP IN ADVANCE! The people in this forum are AMAZING!
  9. Hi, I have a light ticking noise at Idle that I don't remember my WR400 having. I just got through lapping the valves, putting in new rings, and adjusting the valves ( I checked them like 4 times over to make sure they're good). It idles perrrfect and starts like new - when cold and warm. And it has great power too. What is it... anybody? Just wondering if it's a sign from the moto devil. Thanks
  10. joecallan

    WR400 - adjusted valves - kick over lockup

    Okay! I found the dealio. I took it for a spin today down the street - street legal. It hauled butt and idled perfect at start, like brand new. I messed around with it over and over, when the timing chain was disconnected. I cranked it over with the kick start again, holding the timing chain up just right. I found out that, it was balling the chain when it was locking up. So, I thought maybe one of the guides was messed up, but then I thought that couldn't be. The guides seem to fail safe. Then I messed with the tensioner and noticed, IT LOCKS at the end! I didn't know this when putting it in and was holding it as I put the 2 bolts in, to keep it from springing back (a huge bitch). I didn't know I had to release the spring back. But then again, I thought I saw the chain getting tight before By the way, it doesn't matter what rotation it's on when you line up the "I". Every revolution on the crank is the same. Well, I didn't have to take the cyclinder back off!!! thank the moto gods. It started easy, ran smooth, and had power. BUT, it makes a light ticking noise. IS that normal?? I don't remember it. I checked the valve clearance a billion times over - it is good! We'll it works great and I'm happy! Tears of joy. Thanks everybody:banana:
  11. joecallan

    WR400 - adjusted valves - kick over lockup

    Thanks for keeping us on our toes.
  12. joecallan

    WR400 - adjusted valves - kick over lockup

    OK, here is the latest : I checked the timing. It seemed to be off, so I set it again like I did before E's to the left - dots on the outsides/flush. Then I turned the crank around one time to line up with the "I" again. I noticed that it was off again, but it's not. I guess it depends on how many revolutions to the "I". How do you know which is right? Anyway, with the kick start I noticed it locked up when the exhaust valves were pushed at the maximum. I could turn it with a wrench/ratchet but makes a light grinding sound. So, I thought there might be the wrong pad/shims under the caps. I took the cam off for like the 6 th time (serious) and inspected the caps and pads - seemed fine. I left the cam off and held the chain with my hand, so it wouldn't ball up the chain. I zip tied the decompression lever down (the pin pushed the valve open to release air). I tried to push the kick start and the same shit happened - lock up. I guess that eliminates a timing problem..? I didn't want to have to pull the cylinder! I don't see how it could be the rings. It's locking at the same point too (F5BF point on the timing look hole).
  13. joecallan

    WR400 - adjusted valves - kick over lockup

    Okay, I double checked to see what's going on. I turned the crank with a wrench, counter clock wise, while watching the the timing indications. When it goes past the letters "F5BF" it makes a light shhh/kk noise but will spin all the way around and around. When I move the kick start it locks up right around the letters "F5BF". I'm guessing its the lobes pushing the valves at the wrong timing. I'll open it up and see if I screwed up somewhere or if it's balled on the chain. son of a bitch thanks for the tips
  14. joecallan

    WR400 - adjusted valves - kick over lockup

    I just kicked it twice I believe.
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