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About Gryphus

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    North Carolina

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  1. Time Left: 23 days and 11 hours

    • FOR SALE
    • Used - Like New

    This filter was installed about 5,000 miles back by the mechanic who helped to get my DR-Z running after a long sleep. It is essentially like new, having only been used on the street. I am going to start riding more fire roads so I thought I would change back to the original. It still has 995,000 miles left on the warranty! How about $20 shipped OBO?


    Asheville, North Carolina - US

  2. I had a DR-Z for about three years, then I swapped it for a DR 650, which I had for about five years. Then I got another DR-Z. Now, after three years, I'm casually looking for another DR 650. Obviously, they are my two favorites. If I could only have one bike, it would probably be a DR-650. In the meantime, I've also had a bunch of other street bikes. The main reason I am thinking of going back to the DR 650 is that now I have to ride 20+ miles to get to most of the forest roads I like to ride on. While the DR-Z goes as fast as I need to go, it just seems awfully "busy" at 60+ mph and it isn't as stable as the DR 650 at speed. For me, the DR-Z seems happiest at 55 or so mph, although a lot of the people here have no problem with running them at 75-80 for extended periods. The DR 650 is about 70 pounds heavier than the DR-Z and some might find that to be a problem with single track. I'm not into the really gnarly stuff anymore so that doesn't make any difference to me. Don't think the 650 can't do it, though. Just look on You Tube and there are plenty of videos. As a big person, you would probably be more comfortable on the DR 650. Either one would probably need heavier springs. The DR 650 will also need a new rear shock and Intiminators, Emulators, or DDCs for the forks. Plan on $700-$1,000 for this. It's absolutely necessary for any off-pavement riding. If you're planning to get a street bike and haul the other one on a bumper mount, the DR-Z would likely make sense. Both of them have a large variety of after-market parts so you can customize to your heart's content. If you can, take a good test ride on both. Either way, you'll have a great time.
  3. I finally got some Bel-Ray 5wt oil at my local dealer, got home and decided to have at it. Really not a bad job at all. Took about 2 hours from start to finish. The old fluid didn't smell bad at all, didn't look that bad, but at 17 years old, it couldn't hurt to replace it. Hope to get out and ride it tomorrow. If I have to do this again, I'm going to take an extra 10-15 minutes and make one of those spring holders that's in the video. The first fork went OK, the second one was a pain to get the cap screwed on.
  4. After 17 years, I think it may be time to change the fork oil in my 2002 DR-Z. In reading the article in the shop manual, it says to make sure the needle and spring are properly installed in the pushrod. It also said that they would fall out when you remove the pushrod so it looks like they must be pretty loose. One of the videos I watched showed them just being dropped into the inner tube and then the pushrod was put in after them with, presumably, everything just falling into place. Is it really that simple?
  5. I'm on my 3rd Seat Concepts seat and highly recommend them. If you just buy the cover, it's easy enough to install yourself or you can get any car upholstery shop to do it for $30-40. If you want to do it yourself, you will probably need a pneumatic stapler for best results.
  6. I wish I could help you with this because I have a somewhat similar problem that no one has been able to figure out yet. Mine shifts from 3rd to neutral about half the time. Totally misses 2nd, neutral light comes on. I would like to check out those parts in your photo at my next oil change. How much do you have to take off to get to them? Thanks!
  7. Wanted to give everyone a heads up on the solution to the problem. I decided that nothing more could be done with the EBC HH pads, which I have successfully used for years. I broke down and ordered the Organic EBC pads, just got them today. Went for a ride and no more squeal! They are not quite as responsive as the HH version, you just have to push down a little harder. Might be helpful in avoiding rear wheel lockup. I carefully examined the HH pads and discovered that the inner pad backing, the metal part, was slightly warped. As you look at the metal side, it is convex while the other one is perfectly flat. Looking at the new organic pads, the back of both is perfectly flat. I can only assume that this must have had something to do with it. Anyway, everything is fine now. Thanks for the input!
  8. I had OEM which squealed, changed to EBC which also squealed, leading me to think it's not the compound that's causing the noise. I really couldn't say there is a night and day difference between them as far as performance goes but my dealer had the EBC in stock and they have always proved satisfactory in the past. I'm thinking of trying another pad as a last resort.
  9. I didn't replace it because with 5,000 miles there was no damage or wear evident. I did polish it to remove any brake dust/corrosion. I have taken the caliper off, cleaned and lubricated, moves freely. The prior pads didn't show any unusual wear, so I believe the caliper was functioning correctly.
  10. Hope you have better luck than I did. It was the OEM's that started this whole thing. Change of pads to EBC HH made absolutely no difference.
  11. Similar to my experience. That 's why I put on the EBC's. I wonder if it would help if I bent the anti-rattle spring so as to put some additional tension on the pads.
  12. All good suggestions. I have re-torqueded the rotor, checked runout, taken the caliper apart, cleaned and lubricated, tightened everything to the specified torque. The old pads were wearing evenly. When I did the disk brake quiet last time it was quiet for the first stop but started up again afterwards. It seems that this might indicate that it's the pads making the noise. I'm not giving up yet.
  13. I have searched this topic on this and other forums, read hundreds of posts, followed everybody's advice, and still have a terrible squeal from the rear brakes when I come up to a stop. Here's what I have already done: replaced original brake pads with EBC HH, which I have used in the past with no squeal, lightly sanded the rotor to remove rust and any glazing, completely cleaned and lubricated caliper, greased everything (including back of pads) with brake lube, cleaned all the lube off and tried disk brake quiet (2 different brands, 2 different times), took everything apart again and chamfered the edges of the pads, lightly sanded the face of the pads (original and EBC), re-torqued the rotor, cleaned everything off again. Still have the loudest squeal you can imagine when pulling up to a stop. Other than that, brakes work fine. This is on a 2002 with about 4,500 miles. It was a barn find when I got it, hadn't run in several years. I would really appreciate any ideas. Are there perhaps any other pads I should try? I remember once on the BMW forum they suggested making pad shims out of thin gasket paper and soaking them with brake grease, and also someone suggested making some shims out of aluminum cans. Haven't tried either of these yet. Anything I am missing or should I just get some ear plugs. Thanks for your help!
  14. I've used them on two different Pro Taper SE (7/8") handlebars with no issues. Just position the wiring for the throttle side where there is some slack and you will have no issues with breaking wires unless you hit something. My old set is probably 5+ years old with no issues. Mine are run through relays because I didn't want to risk leaving them on when I stopped but the new ones seem to cut themselves off automatically.
  15. I saw something somewhere about the worn shift star but I can't find it anymore. There's also a YouTube that shows how to put it together. I suppose the only thing to do is take off the clutch cover and see what I find. I think I'll wait until the next oil change and see if I'm up to it.
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