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Ew83

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About Ew83

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  1. Well he is right. You go up in spring rate and eventually you cannot get the book specified static sag. Still the unanswered question is how to adjust dampening when going up or down in spring rates. So far the verdict I see is you don't adjust it at all. The people that are making the argument to adjust it don't have any logical reason to other than that's what someone told them.
  2. Interesting to hear. I use to live in Mississippi and would drive to the Birmingham area to ride mtn bikes. Also Chattanooga which had better mtn biking. My experience there on mtn bikes was it was very beginner level stuff that the local riders thought was "difficult". Interesting to see the Moto side has legit challenging stuff. Would like to ride it sometime.
  3. Did you pull up and down on the crank when you did the top end to see if there was play? Oil may be getting in from the right side crank seal also. Never heard of oil from the powervalve assembly causing smoke. You need to make sure there isn't play in the crank.
  4. Regarding the rebound, that makes sense if the weight of the rider remained constant with a stiffer spring, but when the spring rebounds with a heavier rider, wouldn't the rider weight cancel out the increased rebound speed? And if that were the case, wouldn't the manuals give different damper settings for heavier weight and lighter weight riders? My point is if spring rate goes up the same amount as rider weight, why would damping need to be adjusted? Is there a math formula for this that shows it's not a linear thing? If it were to be the case that heavier riders needed less and less compression, you would reach a state (in theory) where the compression dampening is reduced to 0. In regards to static sag, with a very heavy rider, as mentioned, you would eventually have 0 static sag and only rider sag due to bike weight not being able to overcome the stiffness of the spring, like someone mentioned. This would apply to any machine that uses springs and dampers: the theory should be the same. Again not opposed to seeing an equation that applies to spring weights and damper relationships. Otherwise messing with damping while going up or down in spring rate still makes no sense to me.
  5. And that doesn't make sense to me either. If the spring rate goes up and rider weight stays same I could see that, but if rider weight goes up with spring rate it should cancel that factor out and the compression should not have to be adjusted. Same with rebound. If it takes 30lbs to compress a spring 1 inch, and the weight on it is 30lbs, wouldn't it compress the same speed as a spring that takes 60lbs to compress an inch with a 60lb weight on it?
  6. Mtn bikes have zero static sag, they're too light. And when set up correctly they do not kick you on a jump. This is why I question some of the conventional wisdom, I just don't see the point of static sag being all that important? I still shoot for getting it correct after I have a good spring rate and rider sag. I can get close but I'm usually a bit shy of the mark. Since we're on suspension, I always wondered if you have a stiffer spring, do you need to increase the dampening to go with it? Per the manual it would appear not. But would a heavier rider on a heavier spring blow through the compression faster than a lighter rider on a lighter spring? If so, would the compression need to be increased for a heavier rider? I even called a suspension shop once and asked and couldn't get a straight answer!
  7. Funny you mention the grease on the valve core and those airtight caps, I've come to that conclusion myself and do both! I've had valve cores fail on me before and get torn on that tiny little rubber like seal around the bottom of them. Since then I always put a little grease on the valve core bottom. I take the cores out a lot using tubliss, something people probably don't do that run tubes. And those caps are great if you got a bad valve core that leaks to compensate on a ride. I agree with someone else on this thread saying tubliss is the way to go, but being he lives in socal with cactus and I've never ridden desert, I don't know how they would do. Might need see sealant for those small stickers. Yes, plugs work great but those small stickers will cause slow leaks. I don't run sealant because where I ride there's no cactus what so ever.
  8. ...or buying a sprocket knowing it blowing up like that is a possibility
  9. What year is your gas gas? There's a beat up 2018 EC300 at a dealer near me but man it is BEAT. then there is a 2019 250x nearby also that has 5 hrs and clean. The EC is 5k (I wouldn't pay 4k for it it's in such bad shape) and the 250x is $6k USD, so I'm having same dilemma, for the right price. Sorry I got no experience on either so I'm of no help to the OP.
  10. 200 hrs good for sprocket teeth wear, not for having it explode due to a design flaw.
  11. My question would be why would he replace the crankshaft seal, which requires you to remove the sleeve, and not replace the sleeve? Makes absolutely no sense. You take a bike apart to replace a seal and leave a grooved spacer that cost 2$ on the bike? There is also an o-ring that sits behind the sleeve you replaced. Did you replace that also? That person likely knew the bottom end was bad if you took it home and it started smoking right away. Pretty messed up to sell a bike in that state and not tell the person. If the crankshaft seal, sleeve, and o-ring behind the sleeve have all been replaced and it still smokes it's a bad bottom end. One thing you can check when you have the inner clutch cover off is take the crankshaft end and try to move it up and down. It shouldn't move. If there's play, it's bad.
  12. You need to find where the air is leaking from. If you've experienced multiple leaks, there is likely a small but sharp cactus sticker stuck in the tire. Also check valve stem area: sometimes the stem gets ripped from being at angle/sharp piece of metal in the hole in the rim. Lastly, check your valve core tightness. I went through this whole thread to see videos of your riding spots down there. I was born and raised in LB so I'm curious to see what was outside of the city that I never knew about as a kid!
  13. Gotta be plated to ride off 38
  14. Ew83

    Good tracks in PNW?

    Can attest to roundabouts in Europe. They're a thing of beauty. One form of civil disobedience I engage in every time I get the chance is running red left turn lights. When I can see the curvature of the earth on the horizon of opposite direction traffic, there's absolutely no reason to wait. I've done it about 300 times and never had an issue. Cop coming other way will never know it wasn't yield on green and I check my rear view.
  15. It might just depend where you live? I've gone to several dealerships, and if they offered me that price I'd jump on it. None of them would budge on MSRP. Just how it is here. Possibly this winter the prices will come down but not holding my breath. It's because of ppl like@tigertanker that buy it right when they come out full price that make a scotsman at heart like me have trouble finding them deals [emoji1] Now, if you wanna know how to get a deal on a new truck I can tell you all about it.
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