Jump to content

stevemcqueen1968

Members
  • Content Count

    14
  • Joined

  • Last visited

About stevemcqueen1968

  • Rank
    TT Newbie

Profile Information

  • Location
    Ohio
  1. stevemcqueen1968

    Airbox Mod Causing Starting Issues?

    Yeah, I thought of that. I have used the old plug and a new plug, replaced the spark boot and replaced the ignition coil. I had it running a week ago, although it didn't seem to run well.
  2. stevemcqueen1968

    Airbox Mod Causing Starting Issues?

    Would kicking it over so many times without it running cause an issue with the top end not getting oil? In that maybe there's too much friction between the camshaft and rocker arms that's preventing it to kick over?
  3. stevemcqueen1968

    Airbox Mod Causing Starting Issues?

    Yeah, when I first got it and it ran the pilot fuel screw was set to 1.5 turns out (I'm assuming that a turn would be one 360 degree rotation), and I've tried anywhere from 0.5 turn to 3.5 turns out, but seems to have no effect on starting.
  4. stevemcqueen1968

    Airbox Mod Causing Starting Issues?

    It does seem like the idle is too low for it to fully start, but when I turn it up it doesn't give any indication that it wants to start. When the idle is low, almost to the point that the idle screw isn't touching the throttle seems to be the only time I can give engine to start if only for less than a second.
  5. stevemcqueen1968

    Airbox Mod Causing Starting Issues?

    I have a 1990 DR250, swapped engine from DR350 with Mikuni TM33 carb. It has an aftermarket FMF exhaust. It has the airbox mod with holes punched in the top of the airbox. But the jetting is 130 for the main jet and 37.5 for the pilot jet. I'm having issues getting it running and it'll start up for just a split second, then die. When it has run before it loses power at higher RPM. Could the jetting be incorrect for the airbox mod and that may be what's causing the starting and bogging issues? It seems like the bike is starved of fuel or something.
  6. stevemcqueen1968

    1990 DR350 - Hard to start, runs for 1 second then dies

    Possibly, I changed the oil after I got it because it seemed like gas had mixed into the oil. I didn't want to run it was the bad oil, but also wasn't able to start it and get it warm in order to change the oil. But when I changed the oil and oil filter, I added two quarts like the manual recommended. But I did also have some oil spill out when I did the valve adjustment, maybe a few ounces. What would you recommend? Draining off some of the oil?
  7. I have a 1990 DR250, swapped engine from DR350 with Mikuni TM33 carb. I've been having issues after I got it on Craigslist, and have been trying to hone it in. It has an aftermarket FMF exhaust, the airbox mod with holes punched in the top and a Mikuni #130 mainjet. Also new ignition coil and I have tried using a new spark plug. So far I've finally got it to run, but it's a pain to start and seems to have a mind of it's own. Right now it wants to start but only runs for about a second then dies. I've tried playing with the fuel screw setting, the idle and the choke in a number of different settings. When it does run, it feels bogged down whenever I would give it throttle and not give a lot of power until it dropped in RPM. But it's rare that I'm able to actually get it running. I would think that maybe it's running lean, but the spark plug is black with carbon so it would seem to suggest otherwise. What am I doing wrong here? Oh and today I had it running and was trying to hone in the fuel screw setting and may have had it too rich, because black smoke started coming out of the airbox. Not sure why it was coming out of the airbox though, because I recently adjusted the valve clearance to be in spec.
  8. stevemcqueen1968

    DR350 issue with valve clearance and decompression

    Ok, I'll try to do some playing around with it this weekend and hopefully that does the trick. Thanks for your help Tekime!
  9. stevemcqueen1968

    DR350 issue with valve clearance and decompression

    I replaced the ignition coil so I think that should be helping. I realized too that the there are 8 wires coming from the magneto and only 6 are being used. There's a connector with 4 wires in it that I believe are for both pick up coils, but only one of them can be connected to the CDI. I think I may have switched the wires to use the wrong pick up coil for the ignition, so I fixed that. Now the bike is showing signs it wants to start again, but in a bad way. I'm getting massive kickback from the kickstarter again. I was able to tighten up the exhaust valve enough to be able to use the decompression lever, but I think it may be a little too tight. Could the bad valve clearances cause the kickback in the kickstarter, or would it be a timing issue? Or bad kicking form? I've read a lot about the starting procedure and I use the decompression lever, let it pop out to signify TDC, take the kickstart back and kick all the way through. When I got it running last time, I just had to gently kick the kickstarter and the engine smoothly began to purr. Now I do the same and about 2/3 of the way through on kicking it, BAM like the kickstarter was firing out a shotgun and about breaks my foot.
  10. stevemcqueen1968

    DR350 issue with valve clearance and decompression

    Yeah, I'll adjust the valves first then the decompression lever. But I'll make sure that there's no clearance between the lever and the boss on the cylinder head. Here's a quote from the Clymer manual: "On models so equipped, check the decompression lever clearance as described in this chapter. If the clearance is incorrect, loosen the locknuts and turn the adjuster until there is no clearance between the lever and the boss on the cylinder head cover. This will ensure that the lever shaft is not touching the exhaust valve rocker arm." The thing is it seems like the only way for the decompression lever shaft is not touching the exhaust valve rocker arm is to remove it completely. Otherwise it'll always be applying some level of pressure and pushing down on the rocker arm. And yeah, I'm in the same boat of getting it dialed in. I bought it from a guy that only had it for a few months and didn't do anything with it, so I'm only going on what he said he was told from the owner before that. It has the air box mod on it with holes cut in the top, and supposedly the carb rebuilt/rejetted. It's kind of a Frankenbike in that it's a DR250 with a DR350 engine, aftermarket FMF exhaust, modded air box with a rejetted carb and a Baja Designs street legal kit on it with an cheap aftermarket Chinese headlight. And it seems like it wasn't really taken care of that much—the air filter wasn't even screwed in and was just sitting in the bottom of the air box, there was no gasket on the oil filter, it was missing the gaskets on the crankcase covers and I'm pretty sure gasoline had seeped into the oil.
  11. stevemcqueen1968

    DR350 issue with valve clearance and decompression

    I'm gonna replace the ignition coil, it looks like it's a little bit out of spec and I think maybe it's causing an issue when the bike warms up. Looks like the spark is weak and orange colored, so I'm guessing maybe that's part of the starting issue.
  12. stevemcqueen1968

    DR350 issue with valve clearance and decompression

    I was working on it today and I figured out it was just the camshaft on the rocker arms, I have rotated the rotor so many times without it running and getting oil that it was making a scraping noise and giving resistance from lack of lubrication. I went ahead and adjusted the exhaust valve to .13mm but no joy on being able to use the decompression lever. I actually got it started and went around the neighborhood. I came back and shut it off, and now it won't start again after sitting for only 30 minutes or so. Usually I'll get a little kickback from the kickstarter letting me know it wants to start up, but nothing now. Maybe it's flooded now? I did try starting with no choke and a little throttle a few times.
  13. stevemcqueen1968

    DR350 issue with valve clearance and decompression

    It's been a while since I've done any motorcycle work and I've never done a valve adjustment before, so I wouldn't say I'm 100% sure. But I did follow the instructions from the Clymer manual and another online resource: http://ridersrecycle.com/blog/valve-check-and-adjust-suzuki-dr350/ I took that stator cover off and rotated the rotor until I could see the T mark in the timing hole, and made sure to check that there was some play in the rocker arms to verify it was TDC on the compression stroke. Oh, and now an unrelated (or related) issue is there's a faint grinding noise when I rotate the rotor after TDC on and a fair amount of resistance, even with the spark plug removed. Maybe the camshaft is rubbing against something, or debris in the cylinder fell into the spark plug hole? I'm kind of afraid to try to get it started now lest I do some damage.
  14. stevemcqueen1968

    DR350 issue with valve clearance and decompression

    Hi everyone, I recently got a 1990 DR250 that had the engine swapped from a DR350, presumably 90-93 model. It was missing the decompression lever and cable, and the previous owner used it that way. I put on a decompression lever and cable, then adjusted the valve clearances. My problem seems that either the decompression lever will work and become engaged by the lever, and click back when it hits TDC but with no compression overall, or I have high compression but the decompression lever does nothing. Ive tried to adjust the exhaust valve to the manual spec and even play around with increasing or decreasing the clearance. So it seems either I can kick it with no resistance and no combustion, or nearly impossible to kick but a sputter hear that it wants to start. Am I doing something wrong, or am I missing something?
×