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About motorberus

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  1. motorberus

    crf 250l 2016 vs crf 250 rally abs 2018

    I liked the color scheme on the 18 over the 17 so I paid a couple hundred extra for the 18. Totally worth it, it's a sexy LBP! Have fun out there and be safe. Where are you located?
  2. motorberus

    crf 250l 2016 vs crf 250 rally abs 2018

    The rally is a much better bike if you will be doing any road riding. Has wind protection, longer fuel range, and longer travel suspension than the standard L. Plus you get a bit more top end power on the 2018 vs the 2016. There are still left over 2017 Rally's sitting at dealerships. You could get a pretty good deal on one if you look around (less than $5700). The only difference btw the 2017 and 2018 rally is color. The only downside of the Rally over the standard L is that the Rally has more stuff to break if you fall/crash (fairings).
  3. motorberus

    EJK 'ON/OFF Switch' (for riding at altitude)

    The EJK just adds fuel to what the ecu is putting in. Disabling the EJK is not necessary at high altitude. The bike's oxygen and air density sensors are already adjusting the fuel for current altitude. The EJK just adds a specific percentage of additional fuel to whatever the ECU is putting in, regardless of altitude (which is what you want). I ride from 5,000-13,000 feet all the time and the bike runs perfectly with no adjustments to the EJK settings.
  4. motorberus

    Rally headlight on L bike and other details

    The 250L headlight is attached to the forks/bars. The Rally headlight is attached to a separate structure that is mounted to the frame. If you haven't gotten a bike yet, why not just get a Rally? It has longer travel suspension for the trails anyway. For sprockets, stock 14/40 gearing works great for me. If you gear down, your highway useability will be reduced IMO. If you aren't planning on using the highway much, switching to 13/42 seems to be the most popular choice. You can keep your stock chain length with that option.
  5. motorberus

    2018 CRF250L Rally (non ABS) weight after mods

    Apologies. Let me rephrase. My bike had a bad case of IBS and shat off 5 kg of weight!
  6. In case anyone is interested. 2018 CRF250L Rally non ABS model factory wet weight - 342 lbs Removed from bike: Stock exhaust and header Stock battery Charcoal canister and PAIR valve Stock "hand guards" Stock mirrors misc reflectors stock tool kit plastic guard above chain stock foot pegs Added to bike: FMF Q4 exhaust and Megabomb header EJK fuel controller Knight designs lower foot pegs Lithium battery Tusk D-flex hand guards Doubletake Enduro mirror with RAM Ball mount Customized tool kit, fits in stock location RAM mount for phone on crossbar above dash display Battery tender accessory outlet Wet weight after mods - 331 lbs Gained a bunch of power and lost 11 lbs. I'll take it! I'm sure I could lose a few more lbs by replacing the rear fender, removing the stock tool box, replacing the steel bars with aluminum, etc. but personally I don't think it's worth the hassle for just a few pounds. The only mods that I actually did for weight reduction were the charcoal canister removal and the lithium battery. The rest were for more power and utility. The only other mods I plan on doing are a suspension overhaul and better off road tires.
  7. motorberus

    Air Cleaner Connecting Tube Sealant?

    Out of curiosity, how did you bend the subframe? Too much luggage or a crash?
  8. motorberus

    2017 model + mods = worth it?

    Hello all, Thought I would throw in my experience with the stage one mods on my 2018 CRF250L Rally. I did not want a loud exhaust so I just put on the EJK and removed the snorkel and air filter screen about 500 miles ago. Maybe a small increase in power throughout the rev range, but not much. Stock gearing and would only do 80 on the highway. My dad's 2013 would beat it in a drag race every time regardless of rider due to the smaller TB and different tuning for low end on the pre 2017 250L. I just installed the FMF Megabomb header and Q4 can with the 1-1/8" quiet insert on Monday. With the smaller 1-1/8" insert, the exhaust is definitely louder than stock, but not unbearable. Wind noise is still louder than the exhaust at highway speed which is great. The only time it really barks is when you give it full throttle at low speed. As for power, there is a significant increase throughout the rev range. Low to mid range is now comparable or slightly better than a stock pre 2017 250L which is great. On the highway, it has been transformed. Passing power in the 65-80 mph range is greatly improved. Top speed has now improved to ~87 while still having stock gearing. I have no need to go faster than that but do need to cruise at 75 on the highway comfortably (the speed limit here in CO), which I can now do. Before the exhaust, it would slow down to well below 70 on any hill or with any headwind. For anyone on the fence about doing stage one, do it! The insert I put in is not the one that comes with the Q4. It is the 1-1/8" insert made for the Power core 4, but fits in the Q4 no problem and is quieter than the 1-3/8" insert that comes with the Q4. FMF part number is 040630 for the 1-1/8" insert.
  9. motorberus

    2017+ CRF250L Rally slower than previous model years?

    I left the O2 sensor connected for now. From what I have read, it doesn't do much whether you leave it connected or not.
  10. motorberus

    2017+ CRF250L Rally slower than previous model years?

    LOL. First of all, it's not about the gain in top speed. The bike now has significantly more power throughout the rev range and it can now pull a 7%+ grade at 70 where before I could barely pull the same hill at 60. Highway usability is significantly improved, as well as low end for the trails. This was the result I was hoping for without having to gear down. Apologies, should have clarified so as not to give the resident troll anything to latch on to. Purchase price was $5500, exhaust/EJK were $600. I'm in it for $6100 at this point. Worth every penny IMO. On a side note for the uninformed, wind resistance and the power required to overcome it is not a linear equation, it is an exponential one. ((air density)(drag)(surface area)/2)x(velocity)SQUARED. With this in mind and to keep it simple, it requires significantly more than a 7.5% increase in power to go 86 mph vs 80. Feel free to do the math for me and get me an exact number :).
  11. motorberus

    2017+ CRF250L Rally slower than previous model years?

    Hello all. I ended up doing the stage one mods on my 2018 Rally (FMF Q4, Megabomb header, EJK, and snorkel removal). Before the mods, top speed was ~80 mph on the highway. Now it is ~86. Significant improvement in top end. We performed some 2nd and 3rd gear roll on "races" again just like we did in the first post of this thread when they were both stock. Before, the stock 2013 would beat the stock 2018 rally every time due to the higher low end torque on the pre 2017 models. Now, the 2018 Rally with stage one mods just slightly beats the stock 2013 every time. Top end is no contest, can only get the 2013 up to ~80 on the highway. Both have stock 14/40 gearing as well. I am getting some black crud out of the exhaust so it looks like the base EJK settings are a bit rich. Now time to tweak.
  12. motorberus

    How to make the CRF250L 2nd Gear usable?

    Still on the stock tires and wheels are balanced. It may be because mine is a Rally so I don't get any wind so notice the buzz more. It's not terrible at 72+, just noticeable and would get annoying after a while.
  13. motorberus

    How to make the CRF250L 2nd Gear usable?

    Mine gets a little buzzy above 72 mph / 7300 rpm with stock gearing. With 13/42 you would be over 8000 rpm at 70. It may be fine for short stints but I can't imagine riding for an extended period at 8000+ rpm.
  14. motorberus

    How to make the CRF250L 2nd Gear usable?

    The gap between 1st and 2nd is one of the only things I don't like about this bike. I have a 2018 Rally and have to stay in first on a lot of the trails because it just doesn't quite have enough power in second for trail speed. I will be putting on stage one mods (FMF Q4, Mega Bomb, EJK, and snorkel removal) in the next week or so to hopefully gain the small amount of mid range torque I feel it needs to make 2nd usable on trails. I would report back but I don't think I'll be doing any gnarly trails until May-ish. I want to leave my gearing stock because this bike is also my commuter so I don't want to lose highway ability. The stock gearing is great for highway and with the small increase in power with the 2017 and up larger TB I can cruise at 70 all day. With stock gearing at 70 mph, rpm are at 7100. With just a 13 tooth front, you go down to 65 mph at 7100 rpm. With 13/42 gearing, you are down to 62 mph at 7100 rpm. No thanks. If the stage one mods don't do it for me, I may consider doing the stroker kit to turn mine into a CBR300R engine. Parts are about $350, so not unreasonable.
  15. motorberus

    CBR300R Crank Install

    I found the below on crf250l.org. I think it may be a full list. Crankshaft Kit: 06130-K33-305 CBR300R Balancer Shaft: 13421-K33-D01 CBR300R Piston: 13101-K33-D00 Piston Rings: 13010-KYJ-305