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Kwest364

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  1. I have a seat concepts seat on it. Wind never bothered me. I had distanzias on before. Personally, it just seems like the klr is more of a workhorse. I can load it up (saddle bags, big flat rear rack, tank bag) and it will truck across the highways and do it more easily than the drz. Plus the HUGE seat is super comfy. Drz is great and all, but a little too dirt bikey for me to effectively and comfortably haul and adventure with it. Drz is great as a fun, play bike for shorter exploring, and in urban exploring. But as is, I feel I'd need a more adventure-esque bike and the klr seems more suited for it. Plus, if I gear it up, it'll do great on highway, but still have enough tractor for easy offroad stuff. Drz definitely could do it, but seems less suited for what I'd like to use the klr for. Ideally, I'd get an adventure bike (africa twin, super tenere, tiger, or tenere 700), but that's above the price range I'm willing to superfluously spend for a toy. So, cheap klr workhorse that I'm not worried to use and beat up and get dirty is more suited to me.
  2. I don't think you need to go that extreme. 15/38 cruises 70 mph pretty easily. Unless you have some mods the bike is going to struggle if you gear it too highly. It is extreme, yes. I suppose it's more of my curiosity to how it will feel and perform. Has anyone ever run a 16/36? What actually happened? How did it feel? @ohiodrz, how would it adversely affect the bike and make it struggle? I get that it's more torque/load on the engine (like how it's harder to pedal a bicycle in a higher gear), but what does that mean in terms of engine feel? Won't it be cruising easily at speed and drop the rpms? I had a 15/39 and still didn't want to run it more than 50/55mph for longer stretches (I would never cruise it at 55mph for say more than an hour, if that). But I really liked to baby the engine and didn't like cruising with it on highway. I have knobbies and 15/44 on now. It's good, and I cruise at say 45/50mph now (speedo indicated, which I know is off now). I ride the drz more for dual sporting, around city urban fun, easy trail exploration kinda stuff, so the lower gearing helps
  3. I want to change both. Try a 16/36 (or smaller) for highway and a 12/50-55 for torque. These are extremes, but I wanna see how they feel for the drz and see what I prefer. Ideally, I saw somewhere in here, someone was making/selling a wide ratio gear pack, which would be awesome, but I don't think it's necessarily worth it ($680?). It'd just be better to upgrade to a better highway/touring/adventure machine. I was thinkin a klr650 or dr650. Even with the wide gear ratio, the drz just isn't the right tool for that. Drz = fun play/enduro/urban/trail exploring bike, klr = adventure/touring/camper/hauler bike.
  4. 2009 drz400sm What's the largest front sprocket I can run? 15/41 is stock. Would a 16 tooth fit? I'm assuming a 17 tooth would not (if I could even find one).
  5. I should let everyone know, I've only put 10 hrs on the bike since I've had it, so I've not ridden it that much. Just so everyone doesn't think I've put 50 hrs on and haven't done ANY maintenance.
  6. Yeah, I know, I'm trying to investigate, just wasn't sure how to go about investigating. Which is the point of my post. Anything else I should check? After fuel filter, fuel pump filter, filter sealing on air box, what else? More of those ideas, that's perfect.
  7. 2009 (I just edited in original post)
  8. My Ride: 2009 KX450F Ok, took a trip to Silver Lake dunes in MI. Ran into some engine problems. Background: I had been trail riding this bike for a bunch of rides leading up to this day with no performance issues. New to me bike this April, sat for months, didn't actually start riding it until a few weeks ago really. I have never washed the air filter. It was oiled and washed by the previous owner though and he took care of it pretty meticulously and knew bikes. Leading up to my dune ride, even with a bunch of trail riding, still didn't wash the air filter (and still no engine problems). Dune ride Day 1: rolled in, in the afternoon, but didn't have time to put on filter skins I had. Rode for about 2 hours, no problems. Dune ride Day 2: late start, but did some prep in the lot before riding. Don't know if any of this matters, but the only notable thing I did with air filter was put a FRESHLY OILED AND WET skin over my air filter. I know, it should've been dry, but I didn't prep the night before, but didn't want to ride all day with no skin. I think it being wet/oiled actually attracted more sand. Perhaps a better alternative for sand riding is a DRY air filter and a DRY filter skin. Still protection, but sand won't stick to it. I don't really get why air filters are oiled anyways. I get that the idea is to make stuff harder to pass thru filter and make it stick, but it seems like a catch 22 cuz it will cause it to get dirtier cuz it's attracting dirt. Sort of like a lubed up chain will attract dirt and grime on it. Anyways, didn't really have any notable spills/wrecks (had some easy drops), so perhaps that's how sand entered airbox, but anyways. The bike worked great for the first few hours. Then, out of nowhere, it started to get boggy, or feel like it was bogging. It's FI, so it shouldn't be bogging, but that's the best way to describe it. The bike wasn't giving me any power. I figured (hoped) it was low on gas, so I parked it for a while, walked down grabbed my gas and fueled up. This was a windy day, so perhaps sand accumulated a bit while riding and then while sitting there waiting for gas. Gassed up, but the engine only got worse. Got so bad, I could barely go across flat ground in 1st gear (grades I coulda lugged EASILY in 4th gear and powered around). I mean, I was wide open in 4th/5th tearing around. I rode back down and cut it off. Haven't touched it since. I'm not sure where to start or how to troubleshoot on this one. I've never gotten into the airbox/FI system. I'm not sure what happened to the engine (sand in cylinder maybe, scratched walls, rings lost seal, maybe it's just a dirty air filter, but considering it's been ridden dirty without cleaning whatsoever, shouldn't be that). When I opened airbox last night to check for sand, there was some gunk around the edges, but to me it didn't seem like anything that woulda killed my engine like it did. The air filter was still relatively clean. Even the skin over the filter was relatively clean. Any idea what's wrong? What should I check? I'm afraid to start it and let it exacerbate problems.
  9. Why did you prefer a 10? How will an 8 feel compared to a 10? I plan on riding sweeps and being agile, rather than balls out straightaways at WOT.....at least that's the plan.
  10. Ok, here's a list I made for dune riding---I'm riding a 2009 kx450f: -don't lube chain, keep it dry -steel sprockets -gear down your bike (me, I'm going down a tooth in the front, I'm not worried about top end, but torque and a more usable 1st gear) -air filter pre-filter and/or filter skin -tape off airbox holes -put mesh/tape/cover of some sort under airbox (where tire will kick up sand) -move wheel back (have to add links to chain probably) to give paddle tire room for mudguard (2 in clearance minimum) -keep mud guard on (otherwise, sand will eat up rear shock, seal, and bumper) -put on rear shock sock/nylon cover or tape over....somehow *****I can't find these anywhere, anybody know where I can find a nylon cover of sorts to completely cover my rear shock? or any good DIY ideas? -front fork boots/seal savers/seal covers -cover engine vent and breathing tubes and tube intakes (that exit bottom of bike) with mesh or pantyhose of some sort -air down front and rear tires (6-8psi) -suspension COMPRESSION=stiff front and rear -suspension REBOUND? should it be slower or faster? stiffer or softer? -8 paddle, not 10 (otherwise, it has TOO much traction) -stay on throttle always -sit/stand with weight back Any other recommendations? Any idea where I can find a rear shock cover? or make one? Thanks.
  11. Right, there are 8 fiber plates total, 2 of which are different (larger inner diameter). Those larger inner diameter fiber plates go in the first and last position.
  12. Hey William, thanks for the response. I'll go by it point by point: -measured the aftermarket clutch plates, all are in spec according to the manual -plates were soaked -freeplay was in spec -total clutch pack thickness was OEM spec as well I'm at a loss
  13. Picked up a new to me 2009 KX450F. 1 Previous owner, an older guy who has other bikes, and knows how to take care of them. This one was no exception. Some pertinent details: ***OUTER AND INNER CLUTCH BASKETS ARE NOT NOTCHED. IT'S JUST OIL SHADOW! After taking pics, I wiped off oil to be sure, all smooth. *** Here's what's happening: -clutch not disengaging, instant stall as soon as shifted into 1st, bike had rekluse (ran/worked great with it in but I don't like it and it felt like it was slipping under hard throttle), I took it out, put brand new Tusk clutch springs and Tusk clutch pack in (fiber/metal plates), still have stock OEM inner and outer hubs/basket, I've adjusted the clutch everywhere (at handlebar for fine adjustment, still stall, at case for big adjustments, still stalls), push rod, needle bearing, washer, etc. are all in good shape, clutch plates are oem thickness (micrometer measured), the cable isn't stretched, it's at the correct spring torque, clutch cover off I can see pressure plate is moving (disengaging) when I pull in clutch. Even with clutch cable adjuster at case, and cable adjuster as tight at handlebar, still stalls, or I tighten so much, it revs in gear clutch out, but plates can't engage to power engine, so it's like being in neutral when actually in 1st gear. -in the attached pics there is some weird scoring (looks like a vinyl record) on the bottom of the INNER hub, not sure what caused that, possibly from metal fragments that came off clutch cover (I tried backing out springs to see if that did anything, but ended up rubbing a circle on inside of clutch cover from clutch spring bolts touching cover, I cleaned it out thoroughly and cleaned plates, wasn't much debris and probably didn't cause the scoring, could be completely unrelated, but I'm including everything here). I didn't think it would rub the case, but I wanted to try everything. Could the scoring in the pics be causing instant stall? Do I need a thicker push rod washer (the one that goes over needle bearing)? Where would I even find one? Considering adjustment at the case didn't help, I don't see how a 0.5-1mm washer difference would make a difference. What else can I do? I guess my next troubleshoot is buy all new OEM plates (metal/fiber), and a new inner hub. I don't think this is necessary though cuz there has to be a different cause of the plates not disengaging. I think even with new plates and inner hub, it will still stall. I don't see why another set of new plates would fix it, doesn't make sense. Not to mention end up spending $300+ for nothing. I am desperate. I haven't ridden this bike for months because I can't figure this out. It's a wonderful bike, strong engine, smooth. Just this clutch thing that I screwed up. I'd appreciate any long winded and detailed answers. I'm stumped.
  14. @FloridasFinest What are the white stripes on the rims? How did you apply them? Where did you get them? What material? How have they held up? How do they stick, some adhesive? If I wanted to take them off the rims some day, would it leave marks or residue that would be a pain to take off or unable to get off?
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