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About sclogger

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    TT Newbie
  1. Doesn't matter what bike I have, Rotella T6 15/40.
  2. I use a slide hammer attached to vice grips, then file a screw head down flat until it can pass through the inner diameter of the bearing and hook onto the blind side. Heat the case to 250 degrees in oven for about 10 min and it usually pops out first try.
  3. Sell that cylinder to drop your purchase price and enjoy that 144.
  4. Whelp, wife doesn't know it but she dodged a bullet. My trail converted steel framed YZ125 & 250 shall see another year of use. To my disappointment Yamaha saved me money...again! CDI unit from the 125x might be a nifty upgrade, helped reel in the 250 but I don't think the 125 will benefit as much. Not enough power left to reel in after adding an 18inch wheel, 2-3 more on the rear sprocket and a 9oz flywheel weight. Maybe be able to drop the weight, retain the top end and let the CDI shift some more power down low. still says 6 speed close ratio, I don't think they touched it.
  5. Hoping this thread fires up today with some juicy info, Tuesday is here! Made you look!
  6. Air leak issue for sure. Work the easy stuff first, make the reed are intact and lay flat/seal properly like YZ said. Then check your reed to carb connection. If you got a boyesen rad valve, the old rubber boot there is prone to leaks over time. I've seen them crack, melted, even seen an overtighten clamp split it. Sometimes you can't spot it until you remove it and work it with your hands.
  7. Went through this choice as well, I run a 100 and it certainly took a little bite out of the power. Glad I did not go with a 110.
  8. Really thinking of picking these up, with oversized bars it's always a pain to adjust the clickers, I usually have to remove the top clamp. I'd be nice to be able to make adjustments on the fly.
  9. Just to provide a counterpoint,I just finished an ESR 325 build and I'm very pleased. Much cheaper than the 300, especially after selling my original power valve/head/cap.
  10. Your troubleshooting the wrong circuit. Pilot and needle position? Main looks to lean. Go back to stock on the main and if your currently at stock on the pilot, drop 2 sizes. I'd put the needle clip about 2nd from the top see how she runs. Bike, mix and elevation info would help too. Any aftermarket pipe, rad valve etc? How many turns out is your air screw?
  11. Everyone focused on your bike choice and not on the bike itself or possible tips when looking so I'll chime in. I've bought and sold quite a few early 2000's YZ and some rules to live by: 1) Every single one needs a top end no matter what the owner says. It's a good idea to get in there and check things out anyway, it can tell you a lot about what to expect elsewhere. Est $100. 2) If you plan on keeping it more than a season, it most likely needs a bottom end rebuild too. Est. Crank, main bearings and seals $300, add another $100 or so if you do the transmission bearings (I would) 3) Your linkage/swingarm/lower shock bearings are most likely shot. I've never purchased a bike that didn't need this done. Est $150 4) You most likely need a new clutch basket. It's either OEM and notched to hell or been filed down once and is time to replace it. Est $190 5) If the fork/shock seals aren't leaking they probably still need some fresh oil at least. Oil = $15-20, Seal Kits - $50 each, springs - $100 each 6) Beware the big ticket items you can see: cracked rims, cracked case, cracked/bent frame or subframe. 7) Make sure you can hit all the gears, that's a 6 speed in 2001. 8 ) When a seller says "Needs nothing" look twice as hard, he's lying. That bike in my neck of the woods would move fast at $1000, at $1200-$1300 it would sit awhile. 2002+ that can take the restyle kits can get a few hundred more. 2006+ with the aluminum frames and SSS forks rarely go below $2000. Personally, I own a 2000 and prefer it for the 6 speed tranny vs the 5 speed that they had from 2002-2005.
  12. Much appreciated, tore into the forks last night. Decided to drop the .42 springs in, drill the free piston and drop the fork oil level to 320cc (340 stock) to soften things up then get a ride in to give me a baseline while I digest Numroe & Dadee's setups.
  13. Gentlemen, I'm on page 45 of this thread, still plucking away and feel like I need to go back to page one and start over and most likely will. In the meantime I'm hoping someone could give me a fork valving suggestion as a starting point for a restoration project I'm working on. The last piece is the fork and I'm about to dive into a rebuild/revalve today. I weigh 188lbs without gear. C Level rider, I like to keep my wheels on the ground, not to comfortable in the air. I ride trails and fire roads in the Southeast (SC, Georgia). Don't really do too much of the tech stuff, it's either flowing single track (1st-3rd), or wide open on the SxS trails of Durhamtown. 2003 YZ250 (ESR325) with Oversized Zip Ty Tank (3.2gal I think) and standard trail loadout, 18" rear etc. I put a gold valve in the stock shock and valved it according to RT suggestions, 5.3 titanium spring. Fork is from a 2006 YZ450F - I've got .42 springs to toss into it. And question #2 because I've had a real hard time finding this info but what is the inner diameter of the shims am I going to need? I'd like to get an assortment of sizes on the way from mx-tech. So far I dug up 6 & 8mm. Is this correct? I'll find out tonight when I tear into them for sure. Appreciate the help!
  14. I pressure wash mine. I use a milkcrate and use screw drivers through the case/crate to keep things steady while I spray, works great and keeps the gasket surfaces away from the 200 grit driveway . Follow it up with Eagle One Mag wheel cleaner and a tooth brush for the tough stuff and they are good enough. Air compressor and WD-40 if the bearings are staying in. If I'm going for a show room finish, I second mailing them off to vapor blaster. Soda blasting isn't bad either, nicer than the pressure wash/mag wheel cleaner but nowhere near as nice as vapor blasting.
  15. By chance do you have an aftermarket ignition cover? I believe with Steahly you need a spacer if you run an aftermarket cover. OEM cover does not require a spacer. Also, I just happen to be working on a yz250 project bike the other day, there was some rub on the inside of the OEM cover but underneath the Flywheel weight the owner had left the washer in between the weight and flywheel. Got a feeling this extra spacing was causing the contact.
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