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About BrothahHeffay

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  1. I ATTACHED THE PRECISION ATTACHMENT TO THE CARB CLEANER, AIMED IT "BEHIND" THE INSULATOR WHERE IT MEETS THE ENGINE - AS SOON AS I SPRAYED IT THE ENGINE DIES, FOUND AT LEAST ONE OF THE LEAKS!!! Just placed an order for new insulator (just to be safe) as well as the o-ring Would it be ok to slather it in RTV or will that make replacing it a pain when the parts finally arrive? I want to work on electrical and ride the bike in the meantime...
  2. I have a haynes manual i found online, it's all right. Online videos and website are much easier to follow. The biggest frustration is that my bike is in the parking lot way away from my college dorm so it's a pain, and people call the school's authorities on me when I start my bike lol. I'll pull the carb and check the jets and see if my needle guide is in there, and check the air intake (just the part connecting the carb to the engine right?) with carb cleaner for vacuum leaks... stock "aussie" jetting 62 slow and 152 main BTW GUYS my intake looks like it's still in good shape.
  3. I didn't hold them up to the light, but I'm pretty sure they were good - the bike now idles low, which it never did before, but when i raise the throttle it maintains the peak rpm even after i close the throttle.... This is so frustrating - is it certain that the issue is happening before the engine? Because if it is I'd rather spend $300 on a brand new carb and intake manifold + o-ring, than pay a mechanic to screw me over. But I don't want to put money into the carb only to learn that the problem is something entirely different.
  4. The slide opens and closes buttery smooth, I don't even have my throttle cables connected, I was just pulling back the throttle assembly by hand and when I release it, it maintains the same revs as if it was still open!! What is going on here?
  5. the idle still hangs 😭😡
  6. Pilot has a washer and o-ring in that order, this o-ring is much larger as pictured. I'm gonna assume the needle guide is still in the carb, i really dont want to open it again... And what about the idle screw? And where can I get a new drain screw lol
  7. Will give that a try with the pilot screw Choke plate is good. Glad to hear the weakest looking link is just the drain bolt! I checked for air leaks by soaking both the air box and engine side mouths with carb cleaner, as well as everything else I could reach, didn't change rpms that I could tell... Am I missing the needle guide then I wonder.. Guess I'll have to open it back up 😔 Are all the other jets meant to be snug?
  8. Forgot to add - Pilot is 2 turns out (original owner had it all the way in and that's how i ran it.. stock jetting) I now have the idle screw twisted juust enough so that the slide has a tiny crack, should it be more or less than that? I had no idea how many turns the other jets should be from "all the way in"
  9. Here's where I'm at. My bike would idle very very high, I'd whack the throttle 2-3 times and it would settle to a normal idle - I'd accelerate, but when I'd return to idle the revs would maintain a very high rate. Bike started fine. This is my first time touching a carb. I ordered a carb rebuild kit (here https://www.ebay.com/itm/Honda-1988-2000-XR600-XR600R-Carburetor-Carb-Rebuild-Kit/302645862087?ssPageName=STRK%3AMEBIDX%3AIT&_trksid=p2057872.m2749.l2649), 100% dissembled and soaked my carb in berryman's tub, and hosed everything thoroughly in spray carb cleaner. Reassemble time - here comes the problems - my ACV diaphram looks rough, I have a new one on the way. Wondering if I should just plug it but there's so much conflicting info online about that... I'm missing the slosh baffle, I reused the main jet and assembly (minus the needle) since it ran great when giving it throttle. New gaskets, new pilot and parts, mew slow jet. Float is within spec. Whatever this is, it looks like it's in terrible shape - And I imagine it goes in here? Anyways, what worries me, is that i have parts leftover!! I don't know what this o-ring goes to (not the pilot screw, as you can see next to my old pilot needle) Also what's the little gold piece that came with my rebuild kit? I don't remember seeing the old one when I took the carb apart? Sorry for the long post, I just want to be sure everything is right before I reassemble. My bike is down 3 flights of stairs and a mile away because I'm in dorms.
  10. BrothahHeffay

    Plated 650R vs 650L. Whats your choice?

    The idea of that bike makes my chap excited
  11. BrothahHeffay

    XR600R Dual Sport Electrical questions...

    Instead of cluttering up my handlebar with an additional switch, could I use my hi-beam switch to toggle opening and closing the circuit right after the battery and before all the electrical?
  12. BrothahHeffay

    XR600R Dual Sport Electrical questions...

    that's what I figured, I have a switch handy - I'm just unsure which of the 2 diagrams to use? (Also if anyone has experience and can tell me which wires from the stock stator I should hook into, that'd be great...)
  13. BrothahHeffay

    XR600R Dual Sport Electrical questions...

    I don't care if electronics die when the engine dies, I just don't want them to suck life from the battery after engine is powered down.
  14. BrothahHeffay

    Plated 650R vs 650L. Whats your choice?

    The 650L is literally worse that the 600R in every way, except for added electronics and E-Start. I'm talking about an air-cooled, 600cc engine developed this millennia, and a modern suspension and frame.
  15. BrothahHeffay

    XR600R Dual Sport Electrical questions...

    Everything will be in later today - Question about wiring the new DC Regulator, which way should it be? This way... Or this way? I want to toss my original AC one, run everything through the DC regulator only, go from DC regulator, to battery pack (charging it) to everything else (headlight, blinkers, brake light etc...)