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D1rtyPelican

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    New Jersey

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  1. This lean condition when you come off throttle (popping) is due to the fuel screw at idle. The minute you close the throttle the fuel screw is what is affecting it, some needle will be involved but mainly fuel screw. Turn it in 1/4 turn increments, the increments youre using (1/16) is too small to change it. Try it out at 2.75-3 turns and I bet the popping will lessen. Again as it was said before, some popping is normal, a lot isnt.
  2. I would richen the fuel screw to 3 turns and see, Also you can raise the idle itself with the white knob. I know that when I drop the engine idle too much it starts to hang when I release the throttle. It goes away when I raise the idle a few hundred RPMS. They normally like to run around 1800.
  3. Ive never seen that, but then again every bike is gonna be different.
  4. Toss in the 25 with the extended. I did that and it cleared up my backfiring. As for hanging idle sometimes its from the idle screw being set too low. I would start at 2.5 and work my way to 3 seeing how it feels. Do it once the motor is warm. 160 MJ, blue on the 3rd should be just about right
  5. I just saw this notification. I have 2006 400SM. It has a Maxima air filter (the previous one was coated in dirt) and a full Yoshi RS3. I have the 3x3 done. I think Im running 160 Main, 25 Pilot and the screw about 2.5-3 out depending on the heat that day. Im just about at sea level. The needle is the blue on the 3rd I wanna say. I actually called JD and they said the temp should make too dramatic of a difference, not enough to keep going in and swapping it. Im by NYC and the spring will go from 55-100 in the summer. I noticed more of a difference turning the screw out more for colder weather than any issues with the needle. It pulls well across the RPMs with that recommendation that they supply so I dont mess with it, or else youll go crazy chasing the perfect tune, only to change it again once its gets colder and air is denser.
  6. If you want to make any adjustments on the fly you WILL need the extended fuel screw. Now what people are stating is whether or no to keep the 22.5 pilot jet or swap out to the 25 pilot jet. The general consensus is that with the extended screw the 22.5 is better. If you keep the stock screw (which isnt recommended since you cant really easily adjust the idle fueling then) then swap in the 25 pilot jet. I have the 25 pilot jet WITH the extended screw and it idles and pulls off the line better than with the 22.5 but thats my bike. Again I stuck to what JD states in the instructions
  7. Stick to what they said as a baseline. It should get you in the ballpark, they no longer require the need to adjust for temp as they have tested this notion out. Just do exactly what the instructions say and then see if anything else needs tuning. You dont need to upgrade the filter, the 3x3 should be the more important thing. If you need a new filter by all means upgrade then, but thats not the limiting factor in the whole combustion process
  8. I just ordered one of these in white. I currently have a ktm one on there but it just doesnt flow the way I would like. Light, housing, and mounting brackets all for about $35 shipped.
  9. The front brake line looks like its pretty much run identical to stock. Maybe its the angle?
  10. I have a couple questions.. 1..Where did you get the shroud for the headlight. I know its a 501/701 headlight but did you buy it together or piece it on eBay? 2..How is it mounted? The mount looks different from stock obviously and what type headlight bulb does it use? 3..Do you have the seller for the graphics, there are so many on eBay that one can get overwhelmed, I would like to get some from someone that a member has used before. Thanks for your time and the bike looks awesome, it fired up a desire to crack into mine.
  11. If it drags with the free play then its the plates that are stuck together. Some times the plates with stick together if the bike has been sitting a bit, its a super simple job, the hardest part is keeping the plates in order. Soak them in oil and make sure that you unstick all of them. You might notice when you take them out of the pack they will still be held together with friction. If you have the manual and the tools you can get this done is about half hour. No real need to drain the oil if you just sit the bike on the kickstand, it tips to the left, youre opening up the right case. Might lose a tiny bit of oil but nothing crazy.
  12. That lack of power is definitely improper jetting, I bet if you covered up that 3x3, itll run better. Still not great since you have a full exhaust, but better than now. Get the JD jet kit and follow the directions as per the sheet they supply. You'll have it running in no time.
  13. Start with adjusting the clutch, you SHOULD have free play in it. You should be able to fit a nickel in it at the lever perch before it actually starts engaging. As for the motor dragging, a clutch when properly adjusted and oiled well (after running a bit I mean), you should be able to push it in neutral (walking along side it), pull and hold the clutch and drop it into 1st and not really feel a drag on the bike. Technically with the clutch in and in 1st gear the bike shouldnt have any engine braking acting on it. If it doesnt do that, open the clutch up, split the plates individually at the pack, taking note of the order of ALL of them and toss them in a zip lock with engine oil, let them soak for about 10 mins, then reinstall, readjusting the clutch etc. Once its warmed up you should be able walk it like mentioned before. No bike properly adjusted should move on engine power in gear with the clutch in.
  14. I had the 22.5 with the extended. Popped like crazy off throttle from being too lean in that area. Swapped to the 25 and it went away and still have a good idle in that range. It may vary for you. JD recommends the 25 no matter the screw
  15. Mine stopped popping when I upped it to a 25PJ as well. Running the fuel screw a lil richer also stopped it, mine was def on the lean side. Hopefully that resolves your issues
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