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About nahvkolaj

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  1. nahvkolaj

    Fe 501 build not done yet $26,000

    I don't know if I could spend more on my dirt bike than my dirt bike cost if I wanted to...
  2. I was seeing this same issue with the settings for my '18 250XC. I'm running a 450 main and 27.5 pilot at ~2200-3500 feet. The app's recommendation was a 32.5 pilot and 460 main which is way too rich. I noticed the 250 XC-W recommendation was identical to the 300 XC and XC-W...it's also my understanding that the 250s need richer jetting than the 300s. The 250 answers don't make sense to me.
  3. With the S-1 needle jet, 3rd clip was too lean at ~1/2 throttle, but too rich down low. There could be a pilot/main combo to make the S-1 work, but I don’t want to try to figure that out. I switched back to my old setting of S-4 needle jet and 43-75 at 1st clip and it cleared right up.
  4. Figure I’d post an update to my previous setting since summer is coming around. For reference: ‘18 250XC 2000-3500 ft riding area Drilled drain plug Filed slide (notch) Drilled drain bolt shield/cover Old setting (~40-50F, winter): 30 pilot 42-75 needle 2nd clip 450 main ~1.5 turns air screw New setting (~75-90F, summer): 27.5 pilot S-1 needle jet 43-75 needle 4th clip 450 main ~1 turn air screw Added JD jet block gasket I don’t think this S-1 needle jet is going to be the ticket. With this setting I’m getting pipe bang, a bit of hanging idle, and just poorer performance in the low through mid throttle openings. I wanted to increase my option to lean out the needle for higher altitude riding that I sometimes do in the summer, but I don’t think the needle and needle jet are going to do that for me. Forgive me for probably echoing previous conclusions, but I think this carb is mainly tuned via the pilot and then the main, with needle clip being a very fine tune, usually a 1/2 clip here or there. I’m still breaking some of the lessons I learned with my old Suzuki’s Keihin. Edit: swapped back to S-4 needle jet and lowered the 43-75 needle to the top clip and it’s much better
  5. nahvkolaj

    Bent KTM frame?

    At first glance it would appear so, but take a second look. What you circled is a stamped feature from the factory. Here’s my ‘18 250XC, same area:
  6. I think you're overcomplicating it. Float height, as discussed/defined here, is the protrusion of the float past the float bowl sealing surface. The KTM service manual states that the seam of the float should be parallel to the float bowl sealing surface, which if I recall is in the 8.5mm "float height" ballpark. From the factory, it was way off in my carb. It was too low (too high of a fuel level in the float bowl).
  7. nahvkolaj

    250 xc aer forks psi by weight vs compression

    For reference, I'm ~190 and I have mine set at 150psi and 10 clicks on compression. Really you need to get out and mess with settings. Try decreasing and increasing pressure. Set the clickers to the comfort then race settings and see how it feels.
  8. nahvkolaj

    2 stroke oil and ratio trail riding

    I run the same. I get a little drip down the silencer's end cap at the end of a ride. I know this thread is almost nothing but anecdotes, so here's mine. I ran my Suzuki 250 at 50:1 for 15 years, and in that time it got two new pistons. It got a rod kit (crank pin started wearing) and a new 4th and 5th gear with the last piston. That bike saw lots of hard desert use, including several races. My takeaway was to start using gear oil in the transmission.
  9. nahvkolaj

    2 stroke oil and ratio trail riding

    Is there a spec for how much oil should be in the crankcase, or this some old rule of thumb?
  10. nahvkolaj

    What is the best steering damper?

    I use the Showa HPSD kit (24mm) from Ride Engineering and I'm pretty happy with it. It's nice and light, doesn't affect control geometry, and keeps the bike settled in turns.
  11. nahvkolaj

    17 KTM 300 XC-W starting from dead cold

    I only ride once a week and I had a similar problem after messing with the jetting on my '18 250XC a bit. I thought I had leaned it out to a good setting (when warm), but it was a little hard to start and had a bog at the first crack of the throttle. I set my float height and it got worse, with hanging idle to boot. It would take me minutes to get the dang thing started and it would die if I wasn't ginger enough with the throttle. Then I stumbled across the "Graham Jarvis mod" (don't know if it's legit his mechanic's mod) in the Husqvarna forum. I thought about the mods a bit and decided enough of it made sense to me. I did the drain plug, plastic shroud, and took a leap and did the slide filing (I'm not bending and pinching the overflow tube). It worked. I think I stumbled upon the same solution you did: fueling. Even though the bike would run rich stock and I had to lean it out to not sputter and spooge over 1/4 throttle, it was not getting enough initial fueling. Opening up the drain plug well to receive fuel easier helped ensure that fuel was ready to be delivered at first crack of the throttle. I definitely think that if you can't get this Mikuni working with jetting alone, about 30 minutes and a 1/16" drill will fix a lot of problems. My XC now runs better than I could even get my RM250 with its TPS- and power jet-equipped PWK, and it starts up cold with a quick push of the button. Just realized this was a zombie thread...oh well.
  12. If you read, it seems like a lot of people have nailed it with these mods. I'll take $5 for a pilot jet and 30 minutes of easy work over shelling out for a Lectron or a Keihin any day.
  13. nahvkolaj

    Oil leak at power valve?

    The gasket is there, but that rubber seal seemed to be the source of the leak. Added some gray rtv (Permatex motoseal) to the area near where the seal and gasket meet, and that seemed to seal it up.
  14. I did the drain plug, nylon shield, and slide mods and set the float height. Went for a ride today and had to turn down the idle and richen up the air screw a bit. The bike ran the best its ever run for me after many jetting tweaks and ~18 hours on the clock. It got rid of the bog I had off the bottom, even before the idle and air screw tweaks (those cured the bit of hanging idle I was getting today). I also had less spooge out the pipe as well, running Maxima K2 @ 60:1. Before the mods I had really bad surging idle and a really bad bog at first crack of the throttle that made it hard to get the bike moving from a stop. It feels like it runs much cleaner now. 2018 250XC 30 pilot 42-75 needle, 2nd clip position 450 main 2500-3500 ft, about 50F outside
  15. nahvkolaj

    Oil leak at power valve?

    I have about 16 hrs on my 2018 250 XC, and there is what appears to be a continuous oil leak out of the front right of the engine. It looks like it may be coming from near the power valve mechanism where it goes from the case into the cylinder and spreading from there. I noticed it first when the bike was new after the first ride, but though it might be a remnant from assembly. It's been through a couple washes now and it's been coming back on subsequent rides. 90% sure it's transmission oil. Has anyone experienced this, and is it a sign that something is not right? Never noticed anything like this on my old Suzuki. I tried to capture it in the pics below but it's not as apparent as it is with the naked eye.