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Otto Kirk

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  1. What are the odds of a SC on CL...sweet. Did you have to remove intake boot material at the upper intake bell(airbox side)? I have to check that interface. My cast is bogging bad past half throttle. I have the AV-11 MR. Trying to sort it for a range increase option over my STIC.
  2. If you'd like to have more power and re-new your carb, there's a meter block replacement available for the PWK. It basically cools the air/fuel mix and atomizes better. Tokyo Offroad utube channel shows how his 250 lugs stupid low on step climbs. He's one of 3 sellers of the product, btw. I can tell you that my small bores(125, 200) now run like they have perfectly executed big-bore kits. Serious gains at part throttle and more up top as well. The SuperTorque STIC costs about as much as a new carb and really, it's a bargain. JD Jetting offers a kit for a refined end product. Avoid the epic threads, it's littered with Haters and Skeptics, it'll just bog:) you down. A recurring theme was, lean jetting would created issues.
  3. A carb wing(powernow?) might be a good move, as it makes the off idle easier to jet, per the smaller volume/increased velocity at below half throttle. Livens up the transition from part to full throttle, a lot on some slow rev'ers.
  4. Otto Kirk

    KTM 200 SX 2004

    Well, I acquired a low hour, cheap hybrid 04/06(frame/sw. arm) + 02 CR Showa fork. Shock has all the MX-Tech tricks. I just had to have this, it's the Grail of all 2hun fans. Rides and handles fantastic. I also changed to a STIC carb meter block for a couple hp up top and much bigger gains at part throttle. Ride it like a 250, no effort, just Rip. Wheelies effortlessly. I found a used -4 oz FW by TrailTech, as to address the crank breakage issue. Not the direction I wanted, but for cranks sake. Fingers crossed. Compared to my mod'd '00 200MXC, the SX is better in every way. It was expected that the stock power would be the lesser of the improvements. I love what I can do with this power level and light feel, especially as I get longer in the tooth.
    I'll say that a key factor is personalizing the bike set-up will yield a very fun bike . By this I mean there are tweaks needed in all aspects. I spent a number of yrs on this bike and mods are required whether you're slow or fast. The fork valving is a death wish and turning will not keep an inside line. No std approach will dial the turning. The engine doesn't respond well whilst under a load at slow speed, unless you select too low a gear. The crank is heavy, but will work best with increased torque. Below is a baseline of std practices that address issues. Tune the powerband for added torque by using the Sudco single tapper DDK needle Adjust the powervalve to the "Langston setting" for the most linear PB Jetting is critical, especially the pilot. One step rich and she's a dog. 42p/175m for me For turning like a Japanese bike. Install a straight rate spring and run the rr axle way back. The spring requires less pre-load to get the rr up for better geo and the rr axle applies more weight bias to the front tire. Added bonus is the rr has added plushness Fork re-valve will eliminate some sketch spikes and of course springs for your weight Rear brake is grabby. I removed material to leave only the middle 1/3. The caliper piston is oversized. I also moved the pedal lower, as to not bump it easily. Lower the cylinder via base gasket set for correct X dimension and improved "squishband" tolerance(.035" ideal). Head mods required to reach ideal tolerances. There will be a noticeable "tractor factor" and jetting will be most efficient
  5. Leaner needle on the straight section? Dude, maybe 60:1 would be fine with the 1/4 throttle action. Run a .5 gal. thru.. Drop the needle or AS adjust. BTW, add pre-load shim(s) to delay that PV actuation and go to thinner base gasket set...Tractor much. You could do almost everything in 3rd and 4th gear. lol
  6. Squish @ .035" I believe is what I had. Sudco single tapper needles clean up the bottom(DDK). A carb wing nets you 37mm bore and the air velocity is increased below half throttle. Also, have you done the carb slide notch mod? Aids the off idle performance. It's on the reed side, done with a round file or Dremel. Half circle, about 5mm wide. It's possible to have a leaking crank seal sucking in tranny fluid. Is fluid level dropping?
  7. Sudco DDK single tapper needle on my '00 bumped torque enough so, that I had to adjust the PV to get the PB back to where I wanted.
  8. LOL My 1st, a '00, was a turd. I was like, how can ppl say it's fun? Death wish fork valving too. 200 fundamentals, a needle that bumps the torque, perfect pilot jet, power valve adjustment and head mods. All good tips. I had quite a list too. It included a Doma on my old MXC, it was awesome. It made for a stout PB and a lot better on top. With the STIC, a stock small bore will trump a lot of time and money for nearly all riders. It makes it a simple task to have a significant power increase. Too simple a solution maybe. As hotter CDI's and head mods once were.
  9. The STIC. If you don't know about this meter block for PWK carbs, consider yourself out of the loop on current 2t performance tech. TPI, meh, more of a refinement. A well jetted carb is a completely different topic. This is along the lines of supercharging. Beauty in it's simplicity. Confounding in it's performance. Sorry about the hype vibe. FYI, I'm not affiliated. If you want more power, forget about typical bolt-ons. That stuff is baby steps and makes for a long li$t. No tuner build$ necessary either. Big power is made at part throttle and some added at the top as well. That's a hat trick not seen in these proportions. Ideal for our smaller bore bikes and mortal talents. BTW, hard on the pipe, yeah, greatly reduced range. The STIC creates a cooler, more atomized charge, via interactive AS, PJ, MJ and holes in the NJ tube. So, 50 PJ, 190 MJ and AS 4 turns out is the baseline set up! How different is it. I've read a charge can be made leaner/cleaner by going from a 190 to a 200 MJ. Now, if you go too small either on the main or pilot and are out 2 turns, power is dropping towards stock by creating a siphon break. Something like that any way. I'm no expert. TokyoOffRoad is a good source and can be found on their YT channel. Very good vids, btw.
  10. One solution that out performs anything period, the STIC meter block into a PWK 38. I've experienced many mods on a 200. A works engine can't place this much power right where mortals need it and still make a bit more on top. Effortlessly float the front end at a good pace and careful not to loop-out! Said no 200 owner, evar. Now you can be that guy. The AS, PJ and MJ interact and the NJ has a number of holes for a vortex air charge affect, which cools and atomizes the charge. AS at 4 turns out, 50 PJ and 190 MJ and no spooge?! Avoid the hate in the STIC threads. Yes, those guys that have to be the smartest in the room, but will never experience it first hand. After all, they are jetted to perfection. NOT THE SAME The cons are that range suffers and...uhm. This tech is a game changer. The price is a bargain when you consider a pipe/silencer combo or especially a tuner build. Order thru. TokyoOffRoad. He has great YT channel and contact info. is there. Good luck
  11. 16yrs, yeah they don't make them like they used to. \sarc
  12. I know a bit about the Showa's, but nothing about the KYB's. Details and experience appreciated. Off-road is how I roll.
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