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About Mike_from_WA

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  1. Mike_from_WA

    Exhaust for Sale

    I have Pro Circuit T4 complete exhaust and head pipe for sale. Taken off a 99 WR400 but should fit 98-02 YZWR400-426. It comes with a 1.5" and a 2" end cap for tuning your power band. Also have a spark arrestor and a Quiet core with spark arrestor. The exhaust alone list for $428, and the quiet core $28, and extra end cap $28. Its in very good shape with no dents or creases only some minor wear on the logo part of the muffler and a few scratches on the mid pipe from mounting and unmounting. I have pics and can E-mail them to anyone interested. This pipe is loud and sound checked with the quiet core by USFS @ 101db. I'm asking $275 plus shipping. Thought I'd post here before E-Bay. E-Mail if your interested @ Schricksters@peoplepc.com
  2. Mike_from_WA

    Suspension work by DEVOL

    Has anyone had suspension work done by DEVOL RACING? If so what did you have done? Were you pleased with the results? What about the price of the work compared to other suspension companies like RaceTech. I had Ted Devol set my stock suspension for a ride at Vantage (Ironman) last year it it worked very well. Ted said with some work the stock suspension could be worked to a very plush ride. Any advice on do it yourself projects would be helpful.
  3. Mike_from_WA

    Flywheel Weight causing low end BOG

    Well I went to Taffy's recomendation. Thanks Taffy. 38PJ, 60PAS and my snap is back very little BOG from closed throttle when snaping it open. I think I just need some more riding to adjust the fuel screw and maybe slight adjustment to the APJ. Good wheelies from just a little throttle and whack it open in first and second gear.
  4. Mike_from_WA

    Flywheel Weight causing low end BOG

    I adjusted my APJ to start immediately when the throttle is moved and a very short duration. Then using the FS went from 1/2 to 2 1/2 turns out and got most of my snap from closed throttle back. The BOG is almost gone at 2 1/2 turns. I guess my next test is to try just changing the PAS which is set at 65 to maybe 60 or 75. Then I'll try the 38PJ and 60PAS.
  5. Mike_from_WA

    Flywheel Weight causing low end BOG

    Thanks Taffy. I'll give it a try tomorrow and post results.
  6. Mike_from_WA

    Flywheel Weight causing low end BOG

    So do you think I should go to a 38PJ and 55 or 65 PAJ? Or could I lean out the PC with larger PAJ say a PAJ75 Would delaying the squirt on the APJ fix the problem instead of changing PJ? I'm already down to about the smallest squirt I can get. I have a 99 so to delay the squirt I would have to bend the tab out.
  7. I have a 99WR with all the free mods. I'm running a very open pipe (Pro Circuit). Have WR timing, and jetting just about spot on. EKN #3 MJ 165 MAJ160 PJ40 PAJS 1/2 turn = 65 PS 2 turns APJ .020 Before adding a 12oz flywheel weight I had snap wheelies in just about any gear at any speed. Had good snap from closed throttle with no bog. Now after adding a 12oz flywheel weight I have that closed throttle to snap open BOG. Sometimes it boggs then BAAAAROOM picks right up, and sometimes it bogs almost to a backfiring sound then dies. As long as the throttle is open a little and then I snap it open it runs fine. What should I try first clip position or APJ. [ September 17, 2002, 10:14 AM: Message edited by: Mike from WA ]
  8. Mike_from_WA

    Which Flywheel Weight?

    Any suggestions good or bad on adding a 10oz vs. 12oz flywheel weight. 99WR400 with Wr timing? Mostly trail ride and logging roads which one would you suggest?
  9. Mike_from_WA


    I use the Moose XCR backpack it has a pouch that will hold a 70oz water bladder, however you must purchase the bladder separate. The backpack is well made with a pouch on each side, one pouch on the front and a small pouch on each side of the waist belt. There is a sternum strap and the shoulder straps are well padded. I can fit a compact camcorder bag with camera in the botton plus water bladder and still have room left over for a jacket in the top and tools in the other pouches.
  10. Mike_from_WA

    I found the culprit! Boys, check your carb slides.

    Check to make sure the throttle stop is the correct length. I've heard that removal of the stop or one that is too short may cause the slide to slap inside the carb which could lead to cracks. Don't know if this is true but search the forum on "cracked slide" or something similar like "throttle stop" and you may and you may find infor on what is causing this. But you probably already have. Are you moving up to a WR470 while it's apart?
  11. Mike_from_WA

    Helmet Cam Help

    I'm using a Sony camcorder but don't have a remote way of starting and stopping. Mine is carried in a moose back pack. I just rout the wire for the camera out of the top of the pack with a little slack and tape it in two places on my helmet(on the back and halfway between where the camera mounts)with duct tape. I've clipped the mic to the top of the pack flap but found when standing up on the pegs at speed all I got was wind noise. I tried clipping to the lower part of the pack and it worked fine. If you run an open pipe you may want to leave the mic inside the pack it will pick up quite a bit, just wrap a small piece of foam around it(secure with rubber band) so it doesn't pickup noise from rubbing inside the pack. Another thing is placement of the camera mount on the helmet. I used a small piece of regular strength velcro and made a couple of short test runs until I goth the camera positioned right. Then made a couple of pencil outlines of the camera, removed the cheap stuff and installed the heavy suty stuff.
  12. Mike_from_WA

    EMM vs DTM - WR vs YZ timing

    Wnt back to DTM to try and smoothe out the power for woods riding. Here is the problem. Still showing sign of being lean on the PC. When throttle is closed quickly I get popping on deceleration. However the plug still reads light tan. Open pipe=Procircuit T4 with Quiet core MJ=160 MAJ=170-can try a 160 DTM #4 PJ=40 PAJ screw=60 APJ=.024 airbox lid removed. Where do I go from here to stop the popping on deceleration? Runs pretty good but not as snappy as my signature setting.
  13. Mike_from_WA

    Original baffle

    Brandon You can HAVE my baffle for a stock pipe but it will cost you a six pack of Alaskan Frontier or Alaskan ESB just let me know, by the way the shipping (across town will be extra HA! HA!). Mike
  14. Mike_from_WA

    GPS mounting

    Cycoactive.com Has several types of mounts. The one I have is made of aluminum and mounts to the cross bar (Garmin III+). I think its made in germany. They can also harden your GPS to prevent failure due to vibration. You must tape the batteries together to help prevent "bounce" which basically disconnects the power. My WR has a Baja Designs kit on it so it has a battery. What I did was wired in to the circuit that goes hot when the switch is turned on with the GPS power cord (be carefull you only use two of the four wires. If you put power to the wrong wires you will burn up the GPS) this way if the batteries "bounce" the power is continuous. Cycoactive has alot of experience and was easy to deal with their in Seattle WA.
  15. Mike_from_WA

    Exhaust system endorsements

    I have the T4 on my 99 WR and it is very loud. The 2" end cap makes power mid to WOT, the small 1 1/4 (I think that is the small cap) makes good bottom end power. I also am trying the quiet core insert. This ammounts to a cone shaped spark arrestor screen with a plate welded on the end with a small hole that has a tube welded to it. It has a strange pop-pop-pop sound at idle but is still pretty loud when you open up. This pipe is a substantial weight savings over stock but have to admit anyone within 20' behind you will feel it blasting at them. The headpipe is very close to the underside of the coil and you may have to bend that small slip on connection wire up a bit so it doesn't melt the plastic cover. [ June 07, 2002: Message edited by: Mike from WA ]