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Tin_knocker

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About Tin_knocker

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    Male
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    Ohio
  1. Tin_knocker

    MIL Light

    True that, to a point. What gage wiring they use on these things, 22, maybe 18? And the unsealed crappy connectors that wiggle loose and corrode? But, weight not want not, lol. I just want my 450 xcw to quit trying to buck me over the bars when it "hiccups"! Landing bellyflop style in a muddy creek crossing because of that flameout shiitake really sucks! Mine came with (bought it used with 19 hrs) a ktm map switch...maybe it's f'ing things up? A guy at a recent dual sport said his '13 450 xcw never did that crap...at all! Idk, adjusted the tps & idle and it still does it! Love this bike's power & suspension, but, wtf?
  2. Tin_knocker

    MIL Light

    A lot of people talk about how wonderful fuel injection is...I say its ok until it isn't...then it just plain sucks. Lots of ambiguity and black magic with it. But, FI is here to stay, the "new normal". Hangin on to my carbs that I still have, old skool but they get r done! I know this doesn't solve your issue, I'm also having issues with my 450 xcw & Buell xb FI. Just venting, lol. Maybe check your battery terminals for tightness and connectivity. Loose terminals triggered an intermittent MIL flash on the Buell once, tightened them up and it stopped coming on...until the other day on a short ride Been reading the Buell forum and they say to insert a jumper wire across two terminals of a particular connector that's behind the headlight. This activates a MIL "flash" mode in which the number of flashes correlates to a 2 digit code. Kinda sounds like that "de-restrict" deal you mentioned?
  3. Doubtful, but collapsed inner hose? I've seen it on a car's flex brake line at the wheel. Easy to check tho. Loosen banjo bolt at slave, squeeze lever & if fluid comes out from master cyl to hose is good. If no fluid comes out, loosen banjo bolt at master cyl and squeeze to see if fluid comes out. No fluid comes out there, problem is in master cyl.
  4. Tin_knocker

    Seeking advice on new 2017 300 xcw price

    Recently, I saw an '18 300 with less than 20 hrs listed for $7200
  5. Tin_knocker

    Seeking advice on new 2017 300 xcw price

    I almost bought a new '18 300 XCW couple months ago for $9500 OTD title and all, ready to plate in Ohio. Didn't think that was too bad. Researched the bike some and decided not to because of Mikuni issues and rear shock sensitivity to rider weight. Also, completely different design so I wouldn't be able to bolt on other parts from my '12 & '13 bikes like seat & wheels, etc. picked up a low hour '14 300 6 days with Keihin carb for a decent deal instead. Seems practically every Mikuni bike (17 & later) has carb problems.
  6. Tin_knocker

    Coolant for XR650R

  7. Tin_knocker

    The 450 Was Lonely

  8. Tin_knocker

    Post Wash Starting Troubles

    I run a dehumidifier in garage during the warm humid months, which, also helps dry the bike. Have used a fan too. Some older bikes I've had in the past would misfire after washing & electrics would act up, so, I simply would let them dry before I fly. I get in a hurry sometimes & apparently haven't shielded my '13 450 XCW switches last few washes and now the horn button is acting up. Need to disassemble, clean & lube now. Covering up switches & exposed wiring behind headlight while washing helps more than you think.
  9. Tin_knocker

    Post Wash Starting Troubles

    Typically, I don't start my bikes after washing simply because of the issue you're describing. Let them dry out for a day or two then start. You could wrap & tape plastic grocery bags around handlebar switches and cover the back of headlight and wiring with a bag also. Doesn't seal all water out, but, keeps direct spraying and soaping off.
  10. Tin_knocker

    Capacitor Jump Start

    A fuel injected bike will not start, even with the kicker (or bump-starting), with a completely dead battery. Never tried one personally but sounds like it should work as the cap stores enough juice for electronics to function when kicking/bump-starting it. There's older threads on here discussing this.
  11. Tin_knocker

    KTM 350 xcf-w 2 headlight bulbs?

    That filament (BA20D bulb has 2 filaments) is probably burnt out. You can move the spade connector (on back of bulb) to another blade so the other filament will light, if its not also burnt out. Also, a multifunction switch with hi/lo option can be mounted to allow use of both filaments.
  12. Tin_knocker

    Help me choose a dual sport to buy!

    What's your age, experience levels on road & off, previous bikes owned and anything else that would help us recommend better? I was giving you a summary of my experience with the 450, your #1 on list, lol. I like the bike a lot, but I would say it's more for experienced riders. Lug it too low on tight trails and creek crossings & it'll try to endo ya, open it up & you better be ready, speaking from personal exp., lol. Like I said, it's a mid & top end power that loves RPM's. Maybe a Rekluse would help with the low RPM lugging, but personally I'm trying to get away from them & up my clutch game.
  13. Tin_knocker

    Help me choose a dual sport to buy!

    I don't want to ride a 500 because I would probably want one, lol. Some more low end luggability would suit my riding style better though.
  14. Tin_knocker

    Help me choose a dual sport to buy!

    Can't say much about the 500, never ridden one. I do have a '13 450 XCW, pretty much same as the EXC450 but older, and its not a "lugger". More of a mid and top kind of power. Feels the same as my '12 250 XCW two stroke size and ergo wise, just 20 lbs or so heavier that isn't noticed until I pick it up. Don't ride on street any more than have to, but with 14/50 sprockets and balanced wheels its fine for trails and most road speeds. Except, its so light that I prefer my 650R for rides with more road than trail. I assume the power can be "moved" around some for more low end, but probably still wouldn't be the way it sounds the 500's are.
  15. The CDI testing chart is looking for resistance values (known as ohm's, the funny looking upside down U) , not volts (V). You need to set your meter to the X1k range (gray area at about the 8 o'clock region on meter near the letters "COM") for the first (ignition coil to primary coil), third (alternator exciter coil) and fourth (Pulse generator) tests listed on that chart. Then, set the meter to the X10 range for the second test (ignition coil to secondary coil).
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