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About SManZ350

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  1. SManZ350

    WRR - Ignition Switch Wiring Diagram Help

    Argh. So on Monday I got the new fuel pump in. After I reinstalled the tank I started it before putting plastics back on. No codes, bike started right up, everything was great, so I put the plastics back on. Current draw did not appear to be an issue either with the previously mentioned wires spliced together. When I get it out to go to work this morning it will crank but not start. Still no codes. Fuel pump primes and I can smell fuel out of the tailpipe. I guess I'll pull the tank again and check the plug, ground it outside of the head and make sure it has a spark. Other than that I'm not sure what else to look at. I have a FMF fuel controller so I can remove that and try again with stock fueling. Frustrating, but I was able to take the CRF to work.
  2. SManZ350

    WRR - Ignition Switch Wiring Diagram Help

    Hey Phil! Not insulted at all! I have not checked for spark and fuel while the code is active. As (bad) luck would have it, I have a new fuel pump coming that should be delivered today. While I was troubleshooting this problem last week I dropped the tank and broke off the fuel fitting. The new pump is off a '13 and I know the '08s have had fuel pump issues so that'll get sorted whether it was a problem or not. Last night I did cut off the leads to the 2nd pair of ignition switch wires and soldered them together. The bike will have set without running for 48hrs so if there's going to be a battery drain I'll find out about it while its in my garage. I'll admit I don't fully understand how to measure amperage with a multimeter but I've read into it again so I can try it. I'm guessing that I can disconnect the positive cable from the battery and measure amperage between the positive on the battery and the positive cable?
  3. SManZ350

    WRR - Ignition Switch Wiring Diagram Help

    The previous owner did the same thing on my bike. I checked that connection and it looks good. I've tried the splice at the ignition switch and the code does not show up. My multimeter showed 0.1v across these wires with the ignition off so I'm expecting that it won't be a problem to leave it like this. Everything else appears to work normally. These wires wouldn't be at the ignition switch without reason but I can't figure out why.
  4. I hate for my first post to be a cry for help! My WR250 is my commuter and its all opened up right now. I do have the service manual with the wiring diagrams in PDF but I can't post them as attachments here, so I hope some of you that have it can help me. I have the Code 19 error, side stand switch open/short circuit. Bike will crank but will not fire up. I've traced the problem to the keyed ignition switch. There are two pairs of wires coming out of this switch. One pair goes to starter relay and other power circuits. The other pair is for the side stand and neutral switches. Both pairs should have continuity when the key is On, but I get intermittent continuity from the second pair. The ignition switch is 3 on the wiring diagram, upper left. The pair that is not always connecting is L/Y L/B at the red connector. What I can't figure out is if the circuit will draw power when the ignition is off if I jump the wires at the red connector together. Can anyone read the diagram better than I can? The problem I am having is very similar to this person's; http://wr250rforum.forumotion.com/t4588-error-code-19-wr250r