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About Stiletto_72

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  1. Stiletto_72

    MX East Coast Suspension Setup Question

    Thanks for the heads up..
  2. Hello John, I purchased a 2004 Yamaha YZ250, and the suspension had been re-done by your company. I was wondering if you could tell me if the current suspension setup will work based on my weight and riding style. From what I can gather the person who originally had the suspension setup raced AMA and weighed about 140 to 145 lbs. The sticker settings are as follows: HS 2 LS 12 REBOUND 14 SPRINGRATE 4.9 SAG 95MM (writing is faded, but almost certain it reads 95mm) Comp 14 rebound 10 Oil Height 90mm (again this setting on the sticker is faded, so i'm not 100% certain). I weigh 180, give or take. I primarily trail ride, and hill climb, but as of lately have been starting to take an interest in Track riding, and practicing at some local tracks. Today I did bottom the front forks out a few times, but I landed kinda of flat. I was going to increase the compression by 2 clicks and reduce the rebound by 1 click. I currently had set the bike back to your sticker specs, and by doing so I had to increase the pre-load on the rear spring to get the correct sag. Does this give you enough information to determine if the current shock setup can be adjusted for my weight, or that the current setup is to "weak" for my weight? If the current suspension components will work for me, what compression, rebound, LS, HS and Oil Heights settings do I need. Also, what weight fork oil should I be using, and what is the oil height since the sticker is really faded? How do you determine your fork oil height, with the forks compressed, un-compressed or by some other measurement? One last note, since I do not have the name of the original person who had the suspension re-done, would the serial or frame # help? Thanks in advance, Greg
  3. Stiletto_72

    04 yz250 idle spike

    Eddie, The problem was with a high idle. I set the idle so the bike, once warm, will idle about 5 to 6 seconds before needing the throttle blipped to stay running. This worked better for me, than the "no idle" setting. Just to test I set the idle to where the bike would idle on its own. After a few climbs the idle spike returned. Eddie,Thank You for the help. Greg
  4. Stiletto_72

    04 yz250 idle spike

    I can re-adjusting the idle. I had it set as low as possible, but still keep the bike idling. When you say "no idle", you mean turn the idle screw out so the idle screw does not lift the slide at all? I can take the bike to another person to get a second opinion on the condition of the engine if the other issues besides jetting is what you are referring to? Thanks Eddie.
  5. Stiletto_72

    04 yz250 idle spike

    Eddie thanks for the fast reply. The motor is sound according to the local bike mechanic, and for $1800 he said, I got a steal of a deal for an 04. The reeds are in good shape. They are "crisp feeling", the edges are not frayed or cracked and are still rigid, and tightly seat or seal. They are carbon I think they may be boyesen reeds, but not 100% certain. I guess I should mention the evening I test rode the bike. It was certainly hot( mid 80's) and humid (~70%) that day, and the bike did not have the idle spike. The jetting at the time was 182mj, n3ej-2, 52 pilot, 5/8" air screw, fairly dirty air filter, 32:1 yamahalube-r2 mix, pro circuit platinum with r304 shorty. We did some climbing that evening and other than the bike having an off idle bog, and was really flat up top, the bike ran okay, as in the idle did not act as if the throttle was ever so slightly being blipped. When I mean the idle spikes, I think it would take less than 1/8 throttle movement to achieve the max idle spike. It's like someone is giving the bike a small shot of fuel. Therefore, i'm thinking I just havent found the magic jetting combination yet. I did some more reading after I made the post and I found a link to pro circuits recommended jetting settings. They recommended with the p/c pipe, which was originally installed on the pipe, a mj of 175, pj of 48, ne3j-2 and 2 on the AS. I don't know if this is for sea level, or the elevation at their facility, but I was going to give it a shot. I was considering increasing the pilot size, and descreasing the mainjet size to see if I could find a working combination. I will wait to see what direction to take after getting a reply back. Also, what came first the chicken (main jet) or the egg (pilot jet)? I have read some articles who state to start with the pilot circuit first, others the main jet. So which is the preferred, or best method to correctly jetting your bike?? Thanks Greg
  6. 1)year/make/model 2004 yamaha yz250 2)conditions (elevation,temp,humidity if extreme,type of riding Elevation 900 to 1600 asl (located in central PA) 75 degrees +/- 10 degrees humidity - variable Trail riding and hill climbing 3)modifications (pipe,air box,motor) FMF Gnarly with power core 2 shorty Twin air filter Motor stock and in good condition with good compression BR8eg spark plug The reed cage doesnt appear to stock either. It doesnt have any writing on the outside, but it is a goldish color, with white read seperators. Reeds are carbon fibre. I think they may be boyesen, but not sure of what type. They are on the stiffer side. 4)current jetting: 180 MJ, n3ej needle on the 4th clip, 50 power jet, 42 pilot, air screw 2.0 turns out. Using Amsoil Dominator at 40:1 mix. Actevo 20W-50 in the gearbox. Air Filter cleaned after each ride and oiled with Amsoil Foam Filter spray. I use the plastic bag method to work the oil into the filter. 5)running issue that is trying to be cured. Idle spikes when at idle. The idle acts as if you just ever so slightly and quickly blipped the throttle. The idle will settle then rise, settle then rise. This mainly happens after climbing a large hill or when toying around small climbs or jumps. 6)does the running issue change?affected by motor temp?better or worse when hot?better or worse when cold? Let me give you the history of steps I have since I purchased the bike. The bike had a pro circuit platinum with a r304 shorty installed when I bought it. The bike was boggy of the bottom and appeared almost governed up top. The bike would take at least ten minutes before it wanted to clean out. The bike was miserable, the only time in the first 10 minutes of riding would the bike want to clean out in first, was at 3/4 or better throttle. The air screw was set at 5/8 out at this time. I checked the jetting and found a 180 mj, n3ej-2, 52 pilot jet, and 50 power jet. I changed the jetting to 178nj, n3ej-2, with 50 pilot 1.25 AScrew. The bike ripped. The bike ran hard up top, and hit hard and fast down low. GREAT I say. Til I started to climbing some hills and the idle while idling or coasting back down the trail started spiking. The idle also seems to be a bit higher than normal. step 2: New gnarly pipe came with power core 2 shorty. I put the pipe on with 178mj, n3ej-2, 50 pilot and 1.25 AS. The bike ran well but once again the idle started to peak. If I richen the pilot circuit the problem seems to get better, but the bike bogs of idle, and the bike looses its hit. Step 3: I put a 42 pilot 1.5 AS, 180mj, & n3ej-3. The bike ran well from top to bottom, but again the idle started to spike. Step 4: 42 pilot. 2.0 AS, 180mj & n3ej-4. The idle spike was gone but the bike went flat after 3/4 throttle while climbing. It was extremely hot and humid yesterday and I figured the bike was a bit rich up top for the temps. I had no complaints on how the bike ran down low. Just for testing I turned the air screw to 1.5 turns for the afternoon riding. Everything got a bit better. Evening comes. Fresh Air filter, and topped of the tank. Ready for an evening ride. We did some hill climbing, and small jumps etc.. The bike started to idle spike once again. Questions: I think the idle spike is from the engine getting warm, am I correct? Is my current jetting settings correct? If not what would be my starting point? Is there a preferred set of reeds that work well with the gnarly/ PC2 shorty setup I should invest in? The current reeds appear to be in good condition. Are 2 strokes this moody? If my current jetting settings are correct will I need to adjust my air screw from morning, afternoon to evening riding conditions? If so does anyone make, or are they the same, an externally adjustable thumb style air screw like the 4 strokes have for the fuel screw?? For my riding I do not so much care about the top end speed. I mainly trail ride, hill climb, small jumps and occassional track ride. Power in the low to mid is more to my liking. My biggest worry is the idle spike. I have a feeling it is not a good thing to have happening. I really thought the 180mj, and 4th clip was going to solve my idle spike problems. But its still there. I'm know by richen up the pilot, the bike looses its off idle pull and hit. If I lean the top out, the idle spiking gets more pronounced. I was thinking maybe going with a 50 pilot and leaning out the MJ to say a 175 2nd or 3rd clip. I'm not sure and I certainly do not wish to cook the motor. If you need any clarification please let me know. Thanks in advance. Greg
  7. Stiletto_72

    06 yz250f JD jetting

    I would try the red needle on the 4th clip, with a 40 pilot (2 turns out) or a 42 pilot at 1.5 turns out, with a 180 or 182 mj. Possibly you will need a 185 mj. This is just a starting point. Set the mainjet first. Roll up into the meat ofthe powerband but do not hit the rev limiter in 5th gear, then roll from WOT to 3/4 throttle. See if the bike has a momentary surge. If it does, then increase the mainjet to a larger size. If no surge then your mainjet is ok. I have an 06, and I found with the stock pipe one mainjet size larger than stock gets good results here in pa at 1100 to 1300 elevation. Let me know what mainjet you do settle on, I was considering buying a pro circuit Ti4 for my 06. Greg
  8. Thanks Eddie. I put the clip on needle position 2. I put the DJ 150mj in with the stock 45 pilot. The bike ran well, but I had to set the fuel screw to 2-3/8 turns for clean throttle response and the engine idle rpm just cleaned out at 2-3/8. I put the 48 pilot back in and I think she should be good to go. Eddie, thanks once again. I learned something new while jetting this time. When you can't seem to find a mainjet what works try leaning out the needle a clip position or two and test again. Someday I will be as smart as you
  9. What about the top end? I couldn't get the bike to clean up top end to test whether the main was the correct size or not. By leaning out the needle are you saying I will get a cleaner picture of how the bike runs at WOT. I think it makes sense what you say, I run WOT and the second I roll back to 3/4 throttle I hit the rich condition caused by the needle taper hence giving me the false rich condition? Eddie, is this what you are getting at? When you hit the rev limiter does the bike cut out, or does it act more like a rich stutter? It may have been I was hitting the rev limiter in 4th gear, then hitting the rich condition when I rolled back from WOT. I'm just trying to make sense of it. I going to move the needle clip to position 2 with the 150mj dynojet says to install with an aftermarket slipon pipe. Thanks Greg
  10. Matt's has an 05 wr450F, all the normal mods with a White Bros MX4 exhaust and the dynojet kit with the boyeson accelerator pump cover. I had his bike jetted well up til mid Jun then it started to sputter some. We figured it was due to the warming weather and would need to make a jetting adjustment, but he hasn't rode his bike since mid June when he broke his collar bone, but his buddy took it out last Sunday. It was sputtering up a storm and would cough when you blipped the throttle. I rode his bike yesterday and the bike is terrible from bottom to top of the throttle. I thought with the cooler temps and lower humidity the bike would have cleaned out some but it spits, sputters, surges some, cuts out but doesn't stall, acceleration is rough, and constant cruise at various throttle positions causes the bike to surge, & sputter. It's acting like it's rich and lean but at different times. The needle is on clip position #4. We had installed a DJ150 mj originally, so I tried a 160 MJ. The problem seemed to get worse when testing a WOT run in 4th gear. I didn't have the road room to run the bike in 5th. The problem actually seemed worse. I started going leaner, 146, 142, 138. It was getting a little better but the bike was still cutting out. I didn't think a 142 and lower mainjet would be large enough. Pretty much there was not a mainjet that gave me a clean top end run. I kicked the bike 20 times with the ignition off to see if I could get fuel to flow from the over flow tube. I wanted to see if the float was too high. I couldn't get any fuel to leak from the overflow hose. I also disconnected the TPS and it made absolutely no difference in how the bike ran. Before I go tearing the carb completely off the bike and clean it thoroughly I was going to try a few things. 1. I was going to check for air leaks around the carb using wd40 spray. When Matt first installed the jetkit he cracked the black housing where the hot start lever cable enters the carb. I was thinking this may be causing an air leak. 2. I was going to try using the JD setup I am currently running in my bike to see how the bike runs. I was hoping to eliminate or pinpoint a carb problem. 3. Throw away the DJ kit (just kidding, but considering it since my 06 wr450f is running great with the JD kit) 4. Remove and clean the carb and check the float level. I thought the floats might be too low and it's a fuel starvation problem. He did wreck pretty hard could the impact of wrecking caused the floats to go out of adjustment? Does anyone else have any suggestions that could possibly be causing his bike run so poorly? I'm a bit lost, just when you think you have this jetting stuff down pat, you get thrown a curve ball. If there is any other information you may need let me know. Thanks Greg.
  11. Thanks for the reply James. My previous post was a bit confusing. Happens when you try to post a question on your lunch break. I ran with the 182 in tonight and it seemed pretty good. Here is what I was trying to say in the last post and after reading what I had typed I didn't convey my message very well. 178mj had surge when I did the roll off test. 180mj had just a tiny bit of surge. If you blinked you would of missed it. 185mj it was completely gone. The 178mj seemed a bit lean. For two reasons, One the roll off method surge showed this and second, the bike made better power at 3/4 than WOT. After 3/4 throttle the bike pulled but almost seemed to struggle to make power. It didn't miss but just didnt feel right. The 180mj the bike pulled longer at WOT than the 178mj did, but seemed to enter a "cruise mode" once the rpms built for a moment. No miss, no stutter, just didn't pick up anymore speed and the acceleration feeling was gone. There really wasnt much change up top with the 185mj compared to the 180mj. Still hit the "cruise mode" but not the rev limiter. Tonight I put the 182 main in with a 40 pilot (2 turns on fuel screw) and RN#4. The bike seemed to pull strong in 5th and keep pulling. I still didn't hit the rev limiter, but I ran out of kahunas to hold the gas pinned any longer because of the condition of the road I was on and backed off the gas. I know the pilot isn't supposed to effect the upper end of the throttle range but does it to a certain extent? I was thinking I might have gone a bit too rich 185mj with the heat of last week we experienced. Today its 15 degrees or so cooler than the last time I tested the bike and the humidity is much lower. It's so confusing at times trying to determine if the condition is lean or rich. Since the bike ran so well today with the 182mj I was thinking I was a bit rich last week. I just gonna ride it now with the 182mj in. It doesnt sputter, miss or hesitate now. It pulls hard down low and there is more than enough reliable power to climb the hills around here, and plenty of 5th gear power if you want to open up the throttle. I'm sure the weather is going to warm up some soon here on the east coast. I will see how the 182 mj runs when 80's and 90's degree weather returns. I will keep you posted as to how the bike runs. Greg
  12. Matt has both the heavy oring and the boyesean cover installed on his wr450F, and his bike runs well and hits hard. Personally, I think you can spend $5.00 on a smaller leakjet, use the stock cover, and put the heavy oring on the accelerator pump and have similiar results with $85.00 more money in your pocket. My wr450F also hits hard with a 40 leakjet and the heavy oring installed. Greg
  13. The oring allows the accelerator pump to apply greater force to the accelerator pump diaphram generating a more intense squirt of fuel to the carb. The oring slips over the accelerator pump adjustment screw and around the black accelerator pump linkage. The accelerator pump mechanism works more in unison. Greg
  14. I have changed my mainjets from a 178 to the 180 and then to a 185. When I did the roll off method from WOT to 3/4 throttle I got the surge as hawkgt mentioned is an indication of a lean condition. I installed the 180mj, and the surge was nearly gone. When in 5th gear, the bikes pulls hard to a certain point then the best way to describe how the bike then ran was it entered a "cruise mode" when you kept the throttle pinned. at WOT. I put the 185 mj and I had the same experience. The bike will pull hard in 5th gear to a certain point then "cruise", and never hit the rev limiter. What causes this "cruise" condition? Is this more an exhaust related issue? Is the main still too small or is this just the nature of the bike? Mark on his 04 experienced the same condition with a 180mj, but he did hit the rev limiter in 3rd gear, but not 5th gear as I experienced on my 06.
  15. Stiletto_72

    JD Jet kit and YZ250F???

    Jetting is an art and one can only give you a starting point. It's tough to diagnose your bike when someone is X # of hundred miles away. Burned, James D, and many others are very knowledgeable guys but they are not test driving your bike either. They can't hear the exhaust note, or feel how the power builds or doesn't build. Check for an air boot leak, make sure your filter is clean and not over oiled, if you had the carb apart did you put everything back together, when you say 4th clip did you count down from the top? Read this post, there is some great information there. I'm still dialin both my bikes in. The more I read, the more I learn, the more accurately i'm getting my bike dialed in. Here is the post link: http://www.thumpertalk.com/forum/showthread.php?p=3671956#post3671956 Also head over to http://www.thumperfaq.com/jetting.htm and read the article on jetting the carb, and while you are at it read the posts at the bottom of the page on what a bog is, how lean is too lean, and the many other posts this will help alot. The biggest thing is to set the mainjet first. PERIOD. Don't worry about how the bike runs below 3/4 throttle. When you have the correct MJ installed everyother bit of tuning will go alot smoother. Then set your needle clip position, then set your FS (after your bike is fully warmed up for about 10 mins), then time your AP, and adjust your leakjet size for the amount of "hit" you prefer. Make yourself a notepad jetting document of information on your pc. Copy and paste the good stuff into notepad for future reference, and keep a section of jetting results with weather temps and altitudes at the top of the notepad. The good settings where your bike ran well and the bad settings where it didn't. Be cool, jetting can be frustrating and seldom on the first try does the bike run great. Greg