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Brian_AZ

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About Brian_AZ

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    Arizona

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  1. Brian_AZ

    drz overheating after 10min

    I don't think the RTV fix gone bad would have anything to do w/ it unless you're low on coolant from it leaking out the weep hole. Check the coolant level and be sure to open the bleed screw when you fill it up. Air in the system will cause it to overheat. Other causes of overheating would be failed thermostat, bad head gasket, or bad water pump. I've also had an overheating issue which I ultimately decided it was because I accidentally put 87 octane fuel in the tank. When I topped off w/ 91 octane the problem went away.
  2. Brian_AZ

    Hey!

    Unfortunately no - my DRZ400 just sprung a leak @ the water pump so I'll have to order some parts before I can ride again.
  3. Brian_AZ

    Dash went dark ?

    What do you mean by 'it's doing weird things'? It sounds like it could be an ignition switch issue but I wouldn't replace it w/o further testing unless money is no obstacle for you because it could also be a power or ground issue. Often 'weird' symptoms like flashing lights, crazy displays etc.. are indicative of a ground side issue which is why I'm asking what you meant by 'weird'. The wiring diagrams I have do not contain the innards of the speedometer or the backlight and I don't have an S/sm model to check with but normally what I would do in a situation like this is simply back-probe the connectors and determine who's who w/ a test light. Find your hot at the speedo with the test light, switch your switch over and over until it acts up and make sure your light stays lit. If it ever goes out then you've narrowed it down to either the switch or the wiring between the two. You can check the grounds the same way but connect to positive battery terminal and probe the grounds and start wiggling things. If the light ever goes out while your wiggling then you keep heading in that direction until you've pinpointed the problem. Or you could jumper a ground wire direct from battery to the backside of the speedo with some wire and alligator clips and see if the problem goes away. The thing you don't want to do is just throw a part at it unless you have 100% ruled out the part as defective. There's nothing worse than spending $100 on a new part and the problem persists.
  4. Brian_AZ

    Hey!

    I actually live out in that direction so the majority of my riding takes place out in the state trust land around my house because of time constraints. I know there's some nice chunks of State trust land/BLM land out west of Morristown heading towards wickenburg which might be fun to check out one day. I'm still a novice Rider so I don't do anything too crazy LOL.
  5. Brian_AZ

    Hey!

    If anyone wants to go riding on the west side of the valley (hwy60- & 163rd ave) let me know.
  6. Brian_AZ

    Dash went dark ?

    I'd start by doing some wiggling tests. Wiggle your dash's power and grounds to try to recreate the problem while at a stand still. Jiggle the key, ignition switch wires etc.. Concerning the rectifier: Although I've never really noticed my own the fact that it has an integral heat sink would lead me to believe it should normally get pretty hot. What year and model DRZ do you have?
  7. Brian_AZ

    E model with SM controls wiring issues!

    Is this what your switch wiring looks like?
  8. Brian_AZ

    E model with SM controls wiring issues!

    You said you have an SM control switch but you're using it on your E model correct? If so, the E model doesn't have a dual filament bulb and you'll only use two of the three wires from your SM switch. The two yellows are high beam - one would normally go to the high beam filament and the other yellow splices off to your dashboard high beam indicator. You don't have that so you won't be using any of the yellows. I think WHITE is shown as solid black in the wiring diagram and if so then WHITE is your hot wire from the switch. YELLOW/WHITE is power TO the SWITCH WHITE is power OUT of switch to HEADLIGHT BLACK/WHITE is GROUND YELLOW is power OUT to HIGH BEAMS (NOT USED FOR E MODEL)
  9. Brian_AZ

    E model with SM controls wiring issues!

    Maybe this will help you:
  10. Brian_AZ

    E model with SM controls wiring issues!

    Yeah, I was just googling for those myself and came across some more substantial ones on amazon for like $29 (gulp!)
  11. Brian_AZ

    E model with SM controls wiring issues!

    Hot side switch: ++++++++<switch>--------------(horn)---- Ground side switch: Switch is on 'ground side' of horn but voltage is maintained through the horn to the switch. +++++++++(horn)+++++++++<switch>--------- Power still has to flow through the switch so you're not going to hurt anything. Unless, as I mentioned earlier, you're running a more robust horn or multiple horns. Then you'd want to run a separate relay for the horn because you'll burn the switch contacts.
  12. Brian_AZ

    E model with SM controls wiring issues!

    For a horn you can do whatever suits your fancy. Hot side switch or ground side switched. It's essentially the same thing when you're dealing with non-computer controlled circuits.
  13. Brian_AZ

    E model with SM controls wiring issues!

    Any ground will work. If it's beeping you done good.
  14. Brian_AZ

    E model with SM controls wiring issues!

    Cool! I was hoping you just had it wired up wrong which is why I drew the diagram. LOL! Please keep us all posted how it turns out.
  15. Brian_AZ

    33.6 mpg? (!!!!)

    Thanks buddy, that's some interesting info there.
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