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John Painter

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  1. Yup, I wiggle my cover on until it’s set, then finger tighten. The clutch lifter pin is set right. It’s literally either the case (warpage?) binding the kick shaft, or something internal that moves when I tighten the case bolts somehow. I’m ready to peel the gasket off and make new one or just use liquid gasket and see how that goes. Thoughts? Thanks for your help, I’m doing the things you would so it’s likely I’m doing t right, but something minor is off and I have to figure that out.
  2. There is indeed a washer on the back of the kick start shaft, it’s in place, I keep stuff like that stuck in place with assembly lube. The washer I found is about the correct size for the cylinder head bolts... interesting. The ‘84/‘85 XR’s are completely different from the years before and after, for better or worse, most parts do not cross reference. ☹️ Though I do love quirky bikes like this. I’m aware of the timing dimples on the kickstarter, there are a couple, and they are aligned. I think everything on the inside is correct. That said, I’m now wondering if there’s a special pattern other than crisscross to tighten the case bolts? The kick start works fine with case bolts finger tightened, but when I tighten to spec, it sticks, and sticks hard. So I’m wondering if there’s something off with the gasket? Maybe one side more compressed so it slightly take the case out of alignment when torqued? Or maybe the recoil spring needs to be further back or further forward?
  3. So I got the right side back together, every thing seemed to be moving as it should, until I put the cover back and the kickstart shaft is binding on something... it must be simple but I can’t figure it out. My Clymers gives mixed directions on the installation, so my current theory is, the little nub/pawl circled here. Goes behind that retaining plate, as it seems to show in the graphic, but in the description it indicates it goes against that plate. This is a close up of that plate. I will admit when I realized it was bound I had kicked it over and it fired right up (kick start stuck straight down) and sounded fantastic except for a faint metallic whirring, I’m certain the part that was binding. I’ll take the cover off tomorrow and try again, but I’m curious if anyone knows if my theory is correct. When I took it out I could not see clearly back in there so I’m not certain. Any ideas? Also, I found a stray washer, which looks suspiciously like one from the head, though I’m not missing one. Hmmm.
  4. XR left side crank case cap screw driver: 2 bolts, 1/2 washer. 😎
  5. You have a couple options actually, there are several companies that will take a crack at resurfacing the rockers (Rocker Arms Unlimited, etc), but depending how bad they are it may not be do able. I am having mine resurfaced ultimately I want them back in. However I had done a lot of reading and checking with others and learned a few had tried XL/XR arms of several other years with good results in these oddball RFVC engines. So at the moment this is what parts for arms A and B I’m using on the right side where mine burned out too. 14431-KRO-000 14441-KRO-000 You might give it a try, and you will also need to order new tappets & nuts since they are larger than the ones on the stock arms. Good luck! PS: if you want to try resurfacing, give Hector over at Rocker Arms Unlimited a shout, if they can do them, they'd be around $35 each. rockerarms@rockerarms.com http://www.rockerarms.com/ ROCKER ARMS UNLIMITED 16575 CLEAR CREEK RD. REDDING, CA 96001
  6. Yup lots of options for cross reference XR and XL non-RFVC engines. Not many options for my XR though I actually have an XL rocker arm in my ‘84 XR200R 😊
  7. Yup they can be very loud when loose. If your shop manual says sag in those springs is ok, you’re lucky! The role those springs play in keeping the transmission healthy and long lasting is important. In the 84/85 XR’s it’s obvious what happens when the issue isn’t addressed. 👍
  8. Despite being an old post, it’s a great question and one I’m dealing with on an old XR200R I’m rehabbing. It is normal for springs to wear out, ‘sag’ over time and use. It is not good to ride with those springs having end to end play (side to side is ok) that means the springs have permanently lost dampening effect they were designed to give. The result of worn springs on my XR was to cause the idler gear bushing to severely wear out so the whole gear wobbled and made a horrible nose in the engine. You need to either replace the springs or whole clutch basket if you can’t just replace the springs. If you can’t replace the whole clutch basket because the springs are behind a plate riveted into place (like on a bike out of production with no new parts available) then you need to improvise and probably grind the tops off the rivets holding the plate that rests over the springs so you can remove that plate and springs underneath and replace them. But be cautious. It is very important to do some research into your specific engine as the springs may be in a special order with several of them having specific tension so there is a progression in how they smooth out the transmission. My XR sounded like a dull chainsaw cutting through concrete and glass at idle and was scary bad sounding if I tried to ride it. ☹️ I wish anyone with this situation good luck!
  9. The springs help to smooth the torque load coming off the transmission to clutch. Im not sure why other years don’t have them, maybe one of the many design concepts Honda was testing in the XR’s of the time? For sure, I only see them in bigger bikes, so maybe it’s worth a try but not right now. I got a good used clutch basket with virtually no sag in the springs so I’m going to use that one. I’d love to get my hands on a cheap donor engine and just futz with some of these things just to see what happens, probably nothing good though. 🤪
  10. So while I’m waiting on parts (and to help pay for them) for my 1984 XR200R, I’ve bought a couple of non-running Chinese scooters got them running and flipped them. One of the scooters which was sold to me as a 50cc but was actually a detuned 150cc I decided to trade for something I’ve been wanting to “dual sporterize” for awhile now.... a baby Ninja. Or as I call them Chinja! These are the scooters built in the shape of Ninjas. The Dongfang version I have is a nice platform to convert to an ADV scooter for my son. My plan? Install a big bore kit (already have that and a 22mm carb), remove all over engineered under-performing air filter and emissions stuff/cap off the PAIR. Remove the junk plastics because the frame looks ‘Ffffing’ sharp! New Renthal bars. Two large barrel headlights . Scooter knobbies 130/60-13. Then figure out a new color scheme. For color scheme... what do you think? yes that’s my vintage Interceptor in the background. 😊
  11. I was indeed thinking about using a washer to shim the spring, but would cut a couple tabs I could bend down from the inside of the washer to hold it on the end of the spring - so I would only weld the minimum on the whole thing and minimize risk of warping. I guess I’ll find out. I appreciate the feedback, so hopefully I’m not too far off base with the idea shimming.
  12. I realized 'dohh' that there's a lot of sag in the springs in the back of my clutch basket. My Clymers says when this happens to get a new one.... riiiight. So, I have a used clutch basket off Ebay on the way, that supposedly doesn't have much sag in the springs. If that holds out to not be so accurate, I plan on grinding the three rivets off that hold the plate which keeps those springs seated on the clutch basket, seeing if I can find some springs to replace them and then welding that plate back onbut I have no idea what specs I'm looking for in the springs, or even if there's a progression in the springs.... any ideas out there?
  13. Intake should be .002 and exhaust should be .003 and you should feel resistance when you put the feeler gauge in and pull it out. If this bikes valves are not in spec, yes... you are going to hear it! 😎
  14. Basket and gears on it all in good shape, in spec. It’s the “idler gear bushing” that’s severely worn and there is wear behind that gear on the case which seems to match the aluminum shavings I found in the bottom of the case. The pads on the friction plates were so badly worn down it’s surprising the clutch worked, though come to think of it maybe it wasn’t working and that was part of the chatter too? I can now see with everything apart that the play in the basket was proportional to the missing pads. They are bad. Aside from the idler gear bushing and wear behind it in the case (it is not through but did chew the surface up) everything looked very good, was tight, and there were no “chunks” of metal, etc just fine shavings of aluminum that looked like they came off behind that gear. I did poke around on the other side as you suggested previously and everything was good. So I think this is the issue. I will know when the new plates, and bushing comes in and I get them installed if that was it. Thank you for helping trouble shoot!
  15. So I had not previously taken the right side apart, but I did last night and found the clutch basket “loose” and the screws and springs quite tight the clutch plates and everything were very worn. So new pads and plates on the way. But behind the clutch basket I found the real issue the “idler gear” or specifically the little bushing in it was so warn the gear was sloppy flapping around!! https://youtu.be/cWlZ-U9njZk
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