Jump to content

ARin

Members
  • Content Count

    867
  • Joined

  • Last visited

Everything posted by ARin

  1. This is a beginners guide to general take down of the Kiehin FLAT FCR carburetor. The bike shown is a 2004 wr450f, but the general design of the carburetor in this article is common for many different makes, models and displacements of bikes. This article is NOT an exhaustive tutorial, but should walk you through the steps necessary to open up the carb, and find the most commonly replaced jets. To begin, we turn the tank petcock off, disconnect the fuel line, and remove the tank from the bike. Use a suitable cover for the gas inlet, and make sure there is no loose dirt/dust around/on the carb that could fall in. I use a spray bottle of water, and compressed air to dry it. Even better is to hose off and dry the bike Generously loosen the rear air boot with a phillips screwdriver, and the front boot clamp that attaches to the motor with the appropriate allen wrench(no need to loosen both front clamps).. Pull the carb rearward, disengaging the front boot, then to the left side of the bike and forward, disengaging the rear boot. Your carb should now sit comfortably to the left side of the bike (this may vary from bike to bike) We are attempting to get the carb in a spot in which both the float bowl and the top plate are accessible. and from the bottom, we can see the entire float bowl Remove the fuel screw (if you don't have an adjustable fuel screw such as MSR/ZipTy etc, stop now, and go to your shop and get one). Before removing the fuel screw, i like to turn it IN all the way, bottoming it out, so i know how many turns it had been at. Remember to keep the spring/washer/o-ring in the right order, and don't lose them. if they don't come out with the fuel screw, go fishing for them with a dental pick, or a piece of bailing wire.. Now drain the float bowl into a suitable container, by loosening the drain stopper. Now remove the screws at the four corners of the float bowl A magnetic pair of gloves or a magnetic dish helps keep track of screws, i highly recommend them. With the float bowl removed, we can see inside. Here pointed out is the leak jet...if we are changing the leak jet, remove it with an appropriate size flat blade screw driver, and replace. remember, smaller # leak jet, means larger volume and duration of AP squirt! Here, looking straight UP into the carb, we can see the main jet (middle) and the pilot jet (left of picture). The main comes out with an appropriate sized socket, and the pilot slides right out after being loosened with a flat bladed driver. After we are done with the pilot, main and leak...we can replace the float bowl. Now we rotate the carb so the top plate is visible. And remove the two allen head screws that hold the top plate. With the top plate off, we can see the top of the slide, the red tip of the needle, and the needle retaining nut. We remove the nut. You can now reach the needle with needle nose pliers (you may need to raise slide by twisting the throttle). Now you can change your needle clip position. down for richer, up for leaner. If you are riding a 2005+ Yamaha, your needle is non adjustable. it is worth it to get an OEM adjustable needle, or better yet, a JD needle kit. After you are done with the needle clip, drop it back into the slide, and replace the retaining nut. Replace the top cap, refit the carb boots, replace the tank and gas line, and you are done.
  2. I know the frame has been updated, but i do not know if the dimensions have changed for the tank fit. Which part number am i looking for for the KTM branded 13L tank for the 2014 350 xcfw? Has anyone put one on a 14 successfully? thanks in advance.
  3. Lost my sd750 canon camera. somewhere in baja on the way to the pacific side. The card will have pictures of me (mohawk), probably a few of my wr450F with 8 inch racelight, and I also took pictures of a dead whale on the beach. PM me on the site if you have any leads. Thanks.
  4. ARin

    painting clear oversize tanks ?

    they arent using enough dye, or letting it steep long enough.
  5. ARin

    painting clear oversize tanks ?

    yep, dye it...dont paint it. get a big tupperware storage tub that the tank will fit in. boil a bunch of pots of water, add dye, and fill the tank with dye water, and submerge it in dye water. Ive done this to small plastic parts from RC cars and whatnot. most clear or white plastics take dye very well.
  6. ARin

    wr jetting question

    not a LOT...probably will just need to fiddle with the fuel screw
  7. ARin

    strongest final drive chain?

    yup, if you are bowstring tight at this point in the suspension travel, you are going to go through sprockets and chains way faster than normal...and in the worst case scenario, blow out your countersprocket bearing.
  8. ARin

    strongest final drive chain?

    use a ratchet strap through the rear rim, and over your subframe...ratchet it down until the rear swingarm is LEVEL with the floor. (about half compressed). then check your slack. this is the point where the chain will be the TIGHTEST in the arc of the swingarm. there must be some slack at this point.
  9. ARin

    pro circuit levers

    they are plug and play.. the trick is that they are hinged with a spring to bend BACKWARDS. they will bend all the way backwards on themselves, and spring back. try to break THAT
  10. ARin

    pro circuit levers

    the stronger they get, the more likely you are to just break the perch instead. Years ago i finally ponied up for ASV's...and that was the last dollar i ever needed to spend on levers. it was a WISE investment.
  11. ARin

    strongest final drive chain?

    a properly adjusted chain should last a LOT longer than that. dont use the "3 finger method". there are good tutorials for proper chain adjustment. i just went on a ride with 70+ people, and probably 90% of them had TERRIBLY tight chains.
  12. ARin

    wr jetting question

    COLDER DENSER air causes a LEANer condition, necessitating richening the jetting. Use this as a starting point. See how close that gets you. 165 main, JD Red #5, 48 Pilot, 1.25 turns, 68 starter jet, #40 leak jet
  13. ARin

    best compromise?

    Ive never heard of the WR referred to as a "compromise" before.
  14. here is a final edited video from my helmet cam. I set it to music and mixed it up a bit with the scenes. there are a few bifs, me and even a friend of mine. I was getting better with the software towards the end, so the video actually gets better toward the end.
  15. ARin

    wr jetting question

    follow that chart that you quoted. you may need to fiddle with the fuel screw setting a bit to get it perfect...but that chart will put you DAMN close. COOLER air will be more dense, and have more O2. Hotter air will be less dense. 0-3000 75-90 jetting works for MOST people as an all around. This is what i used in baja, with greatly varying temps and elevations. Worked very well. these jetting changes arent arbitrary. They CORRECT what is normally a very lean factory condition, that only gets leaner with the more mods you do. plug in the new jets, and post your findings. almost forgot...I have also found that the 40 leak jet is pretty much the only one i use. keeping the LJ size small minimizes throttle bog.
  16. ARin

    '03 Steel frame gas tank

    get the safari trail 4.4 tank. it rides like stock...has a more "stock" look...and fits with no additional parts, etc... also, it provides extra protection to the rads. i LOVE this tank.
  17. ARin

    Beater/Project WR450f

    so.......is the seat more comfortable? I love 04's....and yours is looking SWEET!
  18. ARin

    magicshine lights

    that is an LED bike light. it will have less output and less throw than the stock headlight. might be good as a HELMET light...but even then, only useful when you are looking in a direction that the headlight is not.
  19. ARin

    I want to make my bike a monster. Need help

    As someone who just came back from a week in baja, my recommendations are to leave the motor stock. Spend your money on a bigger fuel tank and a better headlight. I was down in baja with a group of 70 (split into smaller rider groups ~10 people per), and the general consensus seems to be "if you want to rock, leave it stock". I checked my valves, jetted for sea level, and didnt touch anything else on my 04. I was geared stock up front and 46 in the back, and it seemed a perfect balance between top speed and still plenty of low end power. baja is a LOT of 4th gear riding...just lazy (but fast) trails mixed in with single track sections and short sections of sand and quick jaunts on the asphalt. Of course, this will all be dependent on how your trip is coordinated. Folks with stock fuel tanks were constantly fiddling with gas bottles, or borrowing from other bikes. Folks with crappy stock headlights had trouble seeing if they got stuck out too late. people with modified bikes had reliability problems. KTM's burnt up on the cortez-side sand, Hondas threw rods and locked up on the freeways, the one Husaberg and the other Husky just seemed like they fell apart the entire time. Whatever you decide to do, pack light, and have fun.
  20. Mine still looks pretty stock.
  21. ARin

    Beater/Project WR450f

    LOVE seeing an 04 brought back from the dark side. You got yourself a GREAT bike there.
  22. ARin

    Lets see your bikes!

    that is a 35 watt HID from trailtech.
  23. here is a final edited video from my helmet cam. I set it to music and mixed it up a bit with the scenes. there are a few bifs, me and even a friend of mine. I was getting better with the software towards the end, so the video actually gets better toward the end.
  24. ARin

    Lets see your bikes!

    Same bike, after about 800 baja miles
×