Jump to content


  • Content Count

  • Joined

  • Last visited

About Meech86

  • Rank
    TT Member
  1. Yeah it is frustrating, you change one thing and it fixes it but then something else needs attention lol now im not sure if i need to go down a size or up [emoji2369]
  2. Here it is Yeah getting it running perfect is more work than i thought lol
  3. Hopefully they do have numbers. I just took it for a little rip and pulled the plug, with the way i have the fuel screw like mentioned above im still running on the verge of a little to rich
  4. I have no idea what size pilot jet it has, would it be marked on it or would i have to measure it somehow? My fuel screw at the moment is in-between 1-1/2 to 2 turns out. I'd have to drive it around some more to see if the plug is reading rich or not at that setting.
  5. So my issue with the cutting out at high revs is resolved but i now have an issue with quick full throttle on take off, if i rev it real fast right away it bogs and almost dies. If i slowly bring it up and then go fill throttle i have zero issues. My float is well adjusted and my jets are clear. Would this mean i need a slightly bigger pilot jet?
  6. Funny you mention this, im actually running too rich. I lowered the needle all the way down (top clip) and that solved my cut out issue. My fuel needle isn't turned out all that much and I'm still running rich so i think i need to see how the float is set.
  7. Well i fixed that issue, i had to drop the needle all the way down. Now i just have the problem with quick full throttle in first gear. It'll choke up if i punch it from a launch.
  8. Thank you for providing that link. So I guess there's a possibility that I need to buy some jets and swap them out? I'll have to take a look at the float to see how it's set and go from there.. Lots to learn about these lol
  9. That's what I had thought as well, it was just assembled incorrectly from the start. I will be using this head to assemble a motor I have in the basement over the winter, I'll either order a new cam as your specified or I'll just time this one correctly by eyeballing it. thank you for all your help, I really appreciate it.
  10. Hey guys, I'm having a little problem with my bike. When I hit high rpm's my bike will start to cut out in the same way a car would be redlining (but in a much slower way of course). What I have done to try to fix this so far is play with my fuel screw, adjust my idle screw and brought the needle down a notch but the problem still persists. I'm running a Mikuni VM22 26mm carb that I ordered on amazon and haven't made any adjustments to it internally since I thought it would be good to go since it was brand new. Am I wrong for assuming it was good to go? Should I open it up and adjust the float and jets? Are the jets inside the carb adjustable or do they just simply screw into place? I'm new to the bike world and carbs. When I get home tonight I will clean my spark plug, drop the needle down to the last ring at the top of the needle (I'm one ring below the top at the moment) and see what kind of readings I get off the spark plug after a test run. It's hard to tell if I'm running out of fuel or getting too much fuel or running out of spark but the bike starts with no issues and rides fine under normal load, it only cuts out like this at high rpm's. Any guidance is greatly appreciated. Thanks Mitch
  11. I apologize for the massive delay. Life got a little too busy. Here are some pics of the camshaft.
  12. I can definitely do that but it'll have to wait till next week as im off to the cottage this weekend. I'll report back.
  13. Thank you for posting all this information and for your help, but I do not believe we're talking about the same thing. The compression release isn't causing any interferences, I was just wondering what it was there for and I could definitely remove it since it's not really needed. The only way I can rotate the cam and sprocket 360 degrees is with a 9mm wrench on the sprocket bolts since the lobes will catch the valve and I can't turn it by hand over that. I believe that the issue with this new head is the camshaft itself and how it was assembled. With the original head timed at the correct mark, the cam lobes face towards the piston which is the correct timing for these motors. With the new head, if I place the cam lobes exactly where they face on the original head, the marking on the sprocket does not line up at the same spot. This is the issue I have with the new head but I got my old head fixed so that one will be going back on the motor and I will play with the new head this winter and assemble it to the 50cc spare motor I have in the basement, I'll get a 110cc cylinder and piston and I should end up with roughly 88cc or so with that set up according to my research.
  14. Alright this is gold, you'll have a good laugh. I've made a drawing of what I believe you're saying. With the head on the engine, I would place the level across as pictured and once leveled that's where my notch would go? so basically the 9 O'clock position. Please correct me if I'm way off. I think the issue is the cam itself though, I don't believe it's made like the original. If I set both heads next to each other and place the notch on the cam sprocket at 9 o'clock (12 o'clock when sitting flat) and rotate the sprockets, the original head exhaust lobe almost engages right away, but with the new head the lobe doesn't engage at the same point, it engages a little later and I think that's the issue with the new head,.
  15. That's true, i have a Dremel so i can easily make my own indentation. I'm sorry but what do you mean by centerline of the cam sprocket opening?
  • Create New...