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About madcap

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    TT Newbie

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    Flying Airplanes - Full Scale and Scale Radio Control; Aviation Memorabilia; Target Shooting

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  1. I don't have any drift punches but have been trying to work it back and forth spraying with BP. It's showing a bit of movement now bashing it with a 2 or 3 lb hammer and block of wood over the reversed nut. If I can locate a proper drift punch I'll try it....it's been at least two days now....argh Thanks
  2. Seat is on the sideline for now and trying to "persuade" the rear axle to be removed but it must be rusted in place. I managed to move it back and forth about 1/4" earlier but it's really stubborn. I've been pricing a replacement on eBay but there's XL250 variations it's confusing. What's the difference between the Motosport XL250A and KO's etc? Anyone know if there's a difference?
  3. Wow, thank you...I'll get some syn trans fluid mix up that potion. Should have thought to try the backwards nut. Can't think about the last resort option...ugh. Thank you so much
  4. Been using penetrating oil but will continue - would you drive it out left to right with wood block and hammer? Thanks for you help....
  5. Everything has been removed according Clymer to remove the axle. Can't figure out what I'm doing wrong....need some help please. Thanks
  6. This is my first experience with this but tried to research what I could. I was impressed with how close the repro was to the original at first, never considering the stitching pulling through that soft rubber. I'm going to see about attaching another edging if possible if not, the seller has been very communicative and has no issues returning it. Thanks for the info - I'll definitely keep your suggestion as a primary option. Best
  7. The seat cover that I was so excited about turned out to be a major disappointment. The foam repair came out good and as the cover was pulled over and tabs pinched over to secure it the seams ripped away from the soft rubber edging....a complete failure. The original one had a tough plastic or vinyl edging attached to it and was no way coming loose or undone. So I can return the cover for refund less shipping or try to see if another edging can possibly be attached.
  8. The seat pan was bead blasted yesterday along with the muffler heat shield, foot pegs and a couple small items. Soon as I got home they were etching primed and the seat pan and heat shield top coated Black Semi Gloss...spent most of the today painting foot pegs and small parts and looking for hard to find msc small parts on line. Hope to start the seat foam rebuild tomorrow and see how that goes. edit: Is there a way to make these photos smaller - ?
  9. The last few days involved rbuilding the carb which took longer than I wanted but hopefully it was worth the time. I should have taken some photos but didn't think of it. This carb was disassembled a few years ago and the clip that holds the float valve seat was missing and I had to make one from some scrap brass stock. The original was probably steel but this should be OK I guess. For some reason it wasn't with the other parts. Anyway the carb is cleaned, overhauled. The main body assembly screws will be left finger tight till final install. The seat foam was removed from the pan and it looks pretty good considering. I need to cut out a couple sections and replace with some new foam then fit the new cover. I forgot to mention the seat arrived within 3-4 days all the way from Thailand via DHL! I still can't believe it and it matches almost perfectly to the original - and I'm hard to please. Tomorrow I may start to rebuild the seat. The pan needs bead blasting and repainting but results on that should be excellent and overall I have great expectations for a new 1972 XL250 seat. Meanwhile, back in the garage the gas tank continues with electrolysis rust removal. Apparently it can be a very slow process, bu it's still pulling rust out and looking much better. Once it's complete the tank will be sealed. POR-15 seems to be recommended by on line motorcycle gas tank people. If the tank isn't done done a couple more days I think I may use some vinegar, but inside of the tank will need prompt attention to prevent immediate surface rust forming again. After that's taken care of then complete exterior restoration will begin with some Bondo and priming. That's my story so far -
  10. What are the best quality sprockets for the '72 XL250...? Thanks
  11. Thanks buddy, I've got some naval jelly and was looking at some of the chrome parts earlier and wondered how it would affect it, so that sounds perfect. Also, picked up some foam today to fill in the seat damage....still need spray adhesive but really looking forward getting started on it.
  12. I'd like to start documenting this rebuild to compare what the process involves. As mentioned I don't consider myself as a mechanic nor do I own some of the necessary tools but hope to get the job done as professionally as possible so it may take me longer to complete the project. My goal is to restore the bike as close to original as possible. The last few days have involved getting the frame broken down ready for sand blasting. The carb and petcock are disassembled and waiting for rebuild. The gas tank has been stripped and rust slowly being removed by several days of electrolysis. A near perfect seat cover was ordered from Thailand last Friday and arrived yesterday! I wasn't sure what to expect but it looks nearly identical to the original and am very excited about it. The seat foam wasn't in too bad a shape considering and should be able to be patched and repaired. The pan was in good shape with very little rust so it should clean up well also. The markings on the seat foam were interesting - Searching for whatever parts are available is extremely time consuming but hopefully a little luck and patience will be pay off. Stay tuned Thumpers - I'll probably need a bit of help on more than one or two occasions...
  13. Started the carb rebuild Saturday. It was dissembled, soaked in some old "Chem Dip" parts bath, blown out with air and sprayed with carb cleaner. Looks OK I think but didn't remove remove the main jet and needle. I'm afraid of bending the ears again on those washers securing the bolts onto the arm for fear of breaking them off. Anybody have any experience with one of these?
  14. Back in 1972 I was going to the U of Utah in Sal Lake and a feature article on the XL250 appeared in one of the bike magazines. The bike fascinated me and I had to have one. I'm one of those people that doesn't get rid of stuff too easily and usually takes care of what I have. Unfortunately I waited a little too long to start restoring my XL but it's not in too bad of shape overall. Some of the chrome is spotted with rust on the tail light mount and a few other places but I can deal with it for now. Thanks for the information on the cam. I'm going to pull the engine and take the frame to be sand blasted. While I'm not an experienced mechanic I'll plan on having a look at the engine or find someone I can trust to help out. Meantime the carb is going to be cleaned and rebuilt. The speedo and tach will be cleaned up and repainted maybe today and a seat cover ordered from Thailand that is as close to original as I could possibly find. It looks perfect but we'll see. The real problem with the seat is finding the correct shaped foam. That's it for now....
  15. Thanks very much for your help - looks like I located a good used gear shift lever on eBay for a good price. The choke cable for my bike has a "C" on the top instead of "CHOKE" and hope to find that particular one if possible. I know, it sounds picky, but I want as original restoration as possible.
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