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About RG7

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    TT Newbie

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    North Carolina

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  1. Watch this. This dude has been riding since probably 6 or 7 but was back of the pack C class and a bunch of injuries kept him out of riding till about your age. Tons of dedication and training later and he’s qualifying for most pro nationals and even scored points on one round I think. As others have said this requires a level of dedication that is SIGNIFICANTLY above average for your age. But it can be done. Plan out your day. Get your fitness and nutrition right (at least 40% of the puzzle). When you get your results to decent B class, walk into dealerships and reach out to companies that make things you use and see what they can offer you for sponsorships. Only take offers for stuff you actually need, and DO NOT use services like Hookit, you’ll end up buying stuff you don’t need. Bottom line you can do it, you’ll just have to work harder than everyone else.
  2. Would absolutely use a feature like that. Some of the brand specific auto forums like Jeeps have something similar, but just in thread form. I think the Jeepers are more organized than we are 😂. I’ll support a good dealer but if another dealer is much cheaper within a decent drive, I’ll hit the road. A feature I’d like to see is a tool that you can set search limits to within a geographic radius.
  3. Si intentás usar una motocicleta 4T y estás un principante al montando, un 250 está el elección mejor porque es más facíl para montar. Es porque el 250 tiene menos peso, y el poder es poco menos. Para un principante, no necesitás un 450, todo esta sobre la habilidad de la motociclista. Perdoname para la mal español. Es más facíl para ti a entender que usando Google translate.
  4. Same here, always rode converted mx bikes but thinking it’s time to get more serious about having a more woods focused setup.
  5. How does the X like being ridden higher in the rev range? 70% of the riding I do is woods, but I’d like to have something livable for those times I do get to the mx track. Going back and forth between converting a leftover or slightly used 125 to a 125X, or just getting the X. On the other hand, if most guys are running the regular YZ head and keeping the X CDI it might make sense to just save the cash. X CDI, 18” rear wheelset and suspension work to a 1 yr old 125 would still be less than a new X. @Ggertz478— how’s it going with your conversion? Any regrets going with the regular 125?
  6. That’s a great bike for HS racing. I used to race a 125 in harescrambles, here’s a list of what I did besides obvious protection items like bark busters skid plate etc. 1: Light flywheel weight. This is optional. If you’re racing B class you’re fast enough that this isn’t absolutely necessary but will help some in the tighter sections. 2: Big fuel tank. You could eliminate fuel stops altogether depending on race format. 3: FMF fatty/short silencer combo. Broadens the usable powerband and is excellent for woods racing. 4 (second most important): get the bike sprung for your weight if you haven’t already done so and a revalve focused on fast woods racing, you’ll be amazed at how much faster you are and how you’ll spend less time fighting the bike and therefore you’ll have more energy to push during the last 45 minutes or so. 5: MOST IMPORTANT. Make sure wear items are being replaced at proper service intervals. This matters much more in racing than for trail riding. You may be losing significant HP from stock if you let your top/bottom end go too long. Tires as well. After my last season racing the 125 I had top/bottom end done and a new cylinder. Could not believe how fast that bike was — I’d been losing power throughout the race season. Getting new parts is fun, but before you buy upgrades go over that bike top to bottom and replace anything that’s worn: from engine internals to chain and sprockets. I had a checklist with a bunch of wear parts I used replace at the end of the season. I’ll PM it to you if I can find it. Check out Noahclark32 on YouTube. He runs a YZ250 and a YZ125 in HS and national enduros. Kid is fast and has some good tips on bike setup.
  7. Motor will not fit. Go with William’s suggestion above. Nothing good comes out of building a frankenbike like that.
  8. I would start on a 125 especially if you’re buying used. if you buy a used 4T that “looks” great, you could have a grenade of a motor on your hands that will be $1000+ to rebuild. 125 top end rebuild you’re maxing out at $200 and you can DIY. You’re not slow but keep in mind that the bikes you’ve had before are nothing like a full blown mx bike designed for racing. When I was a little younger than you I went from an XR 80 to a CRF150R and that was a big jump. A 100/ttr125 to a full sized race bike is an even bigger jump. There will be a big learning curve with either of these bikes you’re looking at. A 125 is lighter and will allow you to build the riding skills needed to be a fast rider. Look for a YZ 125. There are tons of them out there and are the same bike (except for different plastics) from 05/06 to present day. Lots of parts available. good luck.
  9. I’m a hunter percent sure that’s a swingarm frame 😂 Wear on the rear tire indicates the bike spent a lot of time in first gear being wheelied down the road.
  10. Seconded. Been watching that kid for a few months he’s wicked fast and puts out some awesome videos
  11. Thanks for all the great replies. Seems to me that good customer service is a huge part of why guys continue to spend money at dealers and conversely, bad customer service is why others stay away from them. On top of that, it looks like the dealers with solid customer service are more willing to deal on price etc. Of course this is all common sense and basic good business practice. Pretty amazing the amount of money some dealers are leaving on the table by having a poor leadership element not focused on CS. For my own personal experiences, the dealers I used to go to didn't stock common parts and wear items, had outrageous prices and worst of all, the parts counter was usually manned by the angriest or most incompetent individual the HR team could find within a 20 mile radius. Everyone I know avoids dealers for that reason. However that could be a function of where I was living. I agree with Doug that the direct to consumer model will probably take over once one brand starts the trend and customers start to migrate.
  12. TT'ers, 1) I'm curious to see what makes you spend money at your dealer. Whether it's because they carry specific parts you can't get, personal relationships with the dealer, pricing, or for having your bike serviced. In other words, what is the value proposition that a dealer brings to the table that online retailers cannot? For me, spending money at a dealership was always a last resort if I needed something near a track/race, or convenience factor if I was in the area and needed to pick something up. Why do you choose to spend cash at a dealer vice online where most products can be found at Minimum Advertised Price? 2) For those of you that are or have been dealers, or have close knowledge of the financials of a dealership, where are their margins greatest? Everything I know tells me through financing, but I want to do proper diligence to be sure. The reason I'm asking is my job has me evaluating dealer networks as a viable model going forward (Yes it's amazing I get to talk about motorcycles at work for at least a few days). 3) When I left the sport 6 years ago, it seemed the average price of a new, top model bike was around 8500 before fees. Now that I'm coming back to riding, I was surprised to see Japanese manufacturers asking 10k and the euro bikes topping out at around 13k. Now, I know inflation and the rollercoaster commodities market could play a factor here, what I'm asking is there anything other than global market forces driving this ~17% increase? Or is there something else at play here more specific to the motorcycle/powersports market? Thanks in advance for contributing to my oddly specific request, RG
  13. IMO the brand doesn’t matter as much. You could go with the higher mil thickness offered among your choices, but they’ll still get scratched on the surface and look bad after a while. You could cut out and put Xpel PPF or similar over top of the new graphics/plastics if you want to get nutty with it but that is probably going to double your cost. 180 and decal works have worked well for me, but regardless of brand they’ll still look crappy once you put hours on them.
  14. The 150R is an aggressive bike as well. I had one and several buddies had them when they first came out. It has a wider powerband but the power still comes on strong. It’s a great bike but would be a handful for someone just starting— it’s a race bike designed to compete with 85’s. Not for a beginner rider IMO. If he’s having trouble with the 85 he’ll have trouble with the 150R. Not to mention the 150R is much more costly to maintain as mentioned above. Flywheel weight is an option if they’re made for that bike, however it could make the bike flat, Ive never put a FWW on an 85 so I couldn’t tell you. Consider a riding course or two geared towards riders of his skill set. He will learn so much in a few hours/days (if he’s really into riding and wants to get better), he’ll learn to use the power of the 85 to his advantage and will become a much better rider because of it.
  15. “2015 YZ 250 dirt bike. Runs real good” and that’s it, accompanied by one or two grainy pictures from who knows how long ago. If the seller can’t even bother to type out a paragraph describing the maintenance schedule, upgrades or other things done to the bike then they probably weren’t keeping up with basic maintenance, let alone anything serious. Gives an overall vibe that they didn’t really care about the bike or know much about it.
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