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slotracer577

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About slotracer577

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    Colorado

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  1. I would not go 2”. My wife’s is 1” lower and it’s about the same height as a 2” lower Ktm. She is about 5’7” and has maybe 1/4 inch under her heels with stock seat. She did not like the low wide seat when she tried it. It was too wide and didn’t really help with reaching the ground.
  2. Personally I liked the irc the best, but cost was prohibitive. Michelin was too soft for me and expensive. MT43 has lower grip than real trials tires. IMHO better off with a cheater tire. Best cost/performance is the Dunlop 803. Down side is it loses knobs if ridden fast on pavement.
  3. Owning both, a 300re and xtrainer The 300 is as strong or stronger off the bottom. Difference is when you get on the pipe. The xtrainer just doesn’t pull as hard. I have not had any issues with overheating and on the 19 the rr and re have larger radiators than the xtrainer. The 20’s now use similar radiators to the xtrainer with the plastic cap. The xtrainer is smaller and a little bit lighter. Also cheaper but the suspension is not as good. You have to decide which is more important. What they really need is a race edition of the xtrainer with higher quality forks and shock. That would make it an easier choice. Then you could simply choose by size and power delivery.
  4. Auto decompressing cams reduce compression by holding the exhaust valve open for part of the stroke to reduce compression. Once the cam starts spinning fast enough the valve is no longer held open and you get full compression. Pressure on the lever is not full compression like older 4-st that had manual decompression.
  5. Just finished up a weekend in Moab. 19 300re and 19 xtrainer. Both with 165 main, necw needle. 38 and 35 pilot respectively. Further reinforcing my belief that you can swap the Suzuki needle with the same end letter as the beta needle. Then use the jet chart from the 300. I use the necj for 7000ft +. Also ran enduro spec revalve and respring. Smoothed out the square edge hits and kept the control in the whoops. I like the Sachs fork. A big step up from ktm oc’s.
  6. If you want to drive tscec starts racing earlier that we do here in Colorado. Enduros or hare scrambles are a decent place to start. For enduro, race C class/short course. They will assign a number based on your row. Rmec and tscec share some events or they did in the past. One of my favorite Texas races is caprock canyon.
  7. slotracer577

    This legit?

    The only new ktms that can be plated right off the dealer floor are the exc’s. So a 350 or 500. The xcfw have to go through a conversion from ohv to plated.
  8. slotracer577

    This legit?

    The difference is that a mso without for off-road use can be titled and plated with no inspection. Just take the mso to the dmv and get plates. If the title says off road, then you have to show up at the state patrol office with all dot required equipment and be inspected prior to getting a regular street title and plates. Used to be you just filled out a form saying it was legal and they gave you plates. Now it has to be inspected prior to getting plates. Still not hard to do.
  9. slotracer577

    This legit?

    Beta titles don’t come branded for off road use, so they are easy to plate as well. One of the reasons I went beta over Ktm on my last purchase.
  10. I think it’s the slide. My wife’s bike surges on closed throttle as well. Jetting is 38p, necj, clip 3, 162 main. When jetting it I noticed the slide has a cut in the bottom to let more air through at small openings. Different than the slide in a 300re. I have been thinking of getting the slide from the re to try.
  11. I went PC on my 300 as I don’t like the can on the fmf2.1. Too big and clunky. A few guys I ride with have the older Fmf Q and it’s a small can. Would have done one of those if they still made them. Did a fmf on my wife’s xtrainer. Both sound roughly the same as stock and fit. The xtrainer has the small can and imho looks better than the pc on my bike. Really wish fmf would go back to the small can for the 2.1.
  12. Yes, I cut the shell and the inserts. Made a fixture to bolt down the head and then put the complete head in the mill and fly cut both insert and shell at the same time. If I needed to adjust the insert, then I simply cut that on a small lathe. Now all 3 inserts are correct squish and far more compression.
  13. You can shave the S3 head. I did that on mine to fix the squish as it was just as bad as stock. Really bumped the compression.
  14. Most 4-st will not take a quick blip of the throttle on the stand. Ride it to check jetting.
  15. The biggest problem I see is getting the hole in both cases in the same place. Misalignment there would cause issues. For simple gear mesh, I doubt the tolerance is in the .0001” range. Probably in the .001-.005” range. If gear mesh is a little too much it won’t be the end of the world. Might be a little noisy, but shouldn’t cause issues.
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