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    Martial arts, Rock climbing, Motocross

    Who makes Moose clutches?

    Well, if that's accurate, that'd be enough for me to justify saving the cash over a Hinson unit.

    Alp Tech 7's

    I've got my eye on the new 7's. I'm tired of booties. Let us know how they work out. I've heard good things.

    Scott boots?

    My next pair will be the new Alpinestars Tech 7's. The reviews show them to be outstanding boots and they're only $230. That's a HUGE break from the $325 for Tech 8's I'm used to.
  4. I've heard Moose doesn't make their own clutches and that they're actually very good quality clutches. Anybody have specific, accurate scoop on that?
  5. Let's talk about that a little more. If Moose doesn't make their own parts, do you happen to know who makes their clutches? If it's Hinson or Barrnett, that'd be the option for me. Saving the money and still getting a high-quality product makes sense to me. Also, what's the deal with a "drilled" clutch lever one of the guys posted about? I'm not familiar with that mod. Any info would be appreciated.


    Alp's new Tech 7's are particularly impressive for the price. Might be worth a look.

    Arm pump!!

    RC says he gets arm pump if he doesn't warm up well enough before riding. I know guys pump up more when they get stressed, too. Lots of conditioning, proper technique (squeeze w/your legs, & keep your elbows up) warm up prior to the event, think happy thoughts, breathe deeply during the heat of battle, open and close your hands when the track allows. Those are the things that have worked for me. Oh, as for that unintelligable post; I think maybe somebody's cat ran across the keyboard.

    Factory Connection

    I'm hearing lots of good things about MB1 lately. They must be doing good work. Having said that, I can only recommend a local shop that'll work with you. If you have a specialist that goes out to your track, that's even better. They can watch you ride and help you make the optimum adjustments. I had a RACE TECH guy in Vegas who used to tune my suspension by watching me race and giving the suspension what it needed based on how the bike was reacting underneath me as I worked the various obstacles around the track at speed. I realize that's a rare situation, but look for it if it's available. That was (by far) the best thing that's ever happened to my riding. There's no way the mail order shops can compete with a good local shop who's working directly with you one-on-one.

    Triple Clamp Question:

    Thanks. I'll knock that out.

    Met some boys from TT today. . .

    Any of you guys ride MotoGrande?

    Triple Clamp Question:

    Alright, don't attack me for asking. I've got a triple clamp torque question for those in the know: What bolts are the most likely culprit for a front tire that gets easily knocked out of allignment? (The movers broke my torque wrench and I'm too cheap to buy another one. I know I don't want to over-torque the clamp bolts. It seems like every time I get on the bike lately, the front tire is off to one side. A quick bang against a post and it's back where it belongs. It seems too loose.)

    Any of "Us" Arizonians going to Phoenix SX?

    I'm going. It looks like by myself. All my "wingmen" are otherwise engaged this year. Even my wife will be recovering from surgery that weekend. If there's a group getting together (from Tucson), I'd be interested in tagging up.

    ''Testimonial of a Trackbuilder''

    Dude, You live in heaven! I almost died once and I think I saw a glimpse of that place. I'd never leave home if that were my turf. Can I come be your brother?

    rear brake in the air

    Yep. You have to pull in the clutch to brake tap in the air on a 4-stroke to keep it from stalling. HOWEVER, due to the engine braking, you really won't have to use that technique very much any more. Aproach the jump faster than you need to clear it, then drag the brake over the lip to scrub off just enough speed to put you in the middle of the landing target. Roll the throttle off as you depart the ground and the front will naturally fly lower, because of the engine's back pressure. I very rarely need to tap the brake on the 450. The "throttle chop" puts the nose right where I want it. Again, you need that additional initial speed to help that all come together.
  15. Sit in the middle of the seat. If you're too far back, you'll get too much endo (nose down) attitude. You don't really have to stand up as you launch, just let the bike separate from your seat naturally as you arc over the jump. The more aggressive you feel, the lower you'll want the front end while you're flying, so you can really be hard open on the throttle as you land. As you get the feel for it and get determined in the heat of battle, you'll get further up over the bars to get the front low. You have to start small with techniques like this. It can feel awkward at first. However, after doing it for a while, you WILL get comfortable with it. If the turn is tight enough, the run is short enough, and the jump is long enough, this is the only technique that'll get you cleared to the other side. Gary can add some pro experience to the explanation. Hopefully, I'm wording it so it's easy to understand. Again, it's not just something you pull the trigger on without working up to it.