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About flyinal

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  1. flyinal

    Pirelli MT90 AT v. Stock trailwings???

    On gravel and loose ground the MT90's were much better than the trailwings in my opinion. But, this is not to say they work as well as knobbies. The trailwings in gravel were scary and the MT90's were a bit more planted and definitely predictable. Never used MT90's in any wet stuff though. I sort of felt they worked better in the dirt than it appears from looking at the tread pattern. I ride 90% street though and that is why I went with the MT90's - I really like how they feel when you are chasing big bikes on the paved twisties.
  2. flyinal

    Passenger on DR650

    Ride all the time with a passenger. I weigh 170 and the passenger is 150. On the stock seat (which our asses are now used to) we can ride for a good 2 hours without having to stop. I have a 05 model which is stock except for a minor carb change. You will need the carb change with a passenger if you ride in areas that get over 80F as the bike runs too hot. The carb change was to drill out the brass cover for the pilot screw. On my 05 the stock screw was about 1.5 turns out and wayyyy too lean. I changed the screw to 2 1/8 turns out and it runs much better and does not get so hot. If you live in a colder climate, you may want to start with 2 turns and adjust in 1/8-turn increments from there. We learned that the recommended tire pressure on the stock Bridgestone trailwings is one of the best settings - 25Psi front and 29Psi rear. Do not overfill much past this as you will see that the rear tire gets extremely hot - extra pressure just increases this heat. The pressure also effects the tire life. I tend to slighly preload the front fork by starting on the brake a bit early. This keeps the front-end dive to a minimum. Other than that the bike sits lower with a passenger and I have been up to 70+ on rural twisties and the bike handles fine. Also ride in rain and have had no problems. For a single, the bike has some torque - compared to the others I have owned, the DR is the least effected by a passenger, both in power and handling in my opinion. Ride safe.
  3. flyinal

    Highway Riding

    Ride at least every weekday, 40 miles round-trip on the freeway. Sometimes also ride on weekends. Also take daughter on bike, on freeway, for many many miles at a time. Dealers. Sheesh. FYI: I have called Suzuki about many things and they are VERY helpful. The dealers are not.
  4. flyinal

    Waterpump details from Suzuki

    If the waterpump in my Mustang had a problem every 10000 miles or so, then yes I would sell it since my past Chevy truck went 140,000 miles before the first one died. (and my current F350 has 95K and no problems...) Since I have owned many bikes that have gone over 30,000 miles without failures, I consider the working interval of my DRZ to be sub-par. If a Mustang waterpump failed every 10000 miles then the car would not be too popular with anyone. What I find odd is that motorcycle mechanics state that 15,000 miles on a waterpump is good. If we can get 80,000 miles from a waterpump in cars then why is 15000 ok with a bike?
  5. flyinal

    Opinions on Pirelli front tires?

    Had MT-90's on front and rear. They last a long time and were great on the freeway and around town. Took them offroad for a few minutes and they really work better than they look, but definitely are not designed for dirt.
  6. You may have read about my tribulations with the 01 DRZ 400 waterpump. My pump started to leak at 8000 miles. I did the repair detailed in this forum - no problems. At 17000 miles it started again. The bike is at the second Suzuki dealer, and its been 2 months since the problem started. This dealer called Suzuki though, and here is what he told me: The waterpump failure/leak is known by Suzuki. It is caused by the metal plate that the pump is in (the 'cast' by some folks definition). The plate warps from heat and the impeller no longer lines up perfectly so water starts to go behind the impeller seal because it is not prefectly seated anymore. (If you catch it soon, it makes sense that the RTV fix would work for a while.) Apparently most people do not catch the problem, so when you run low on fluid from the small leak, the pump gets too hot and continues to warp. Therefore, when you try to rebuild the pump it will not seal up no matter what anyone does (and therein lies my pain). Suzuki told the dealer that one should always replace the entire assembly, no matter the severity of the leak or the age of the bike. And, getting the assembly will take some time as they are currently unavailable (backordered? not a good sign if you ask me.). I asked the dealer if it was odd that Suzuki knows of the problem, yet it continues to be an issue. He only told me that he was surprised the pumps were so problematic and that Suzuki knows about an issue for which there is no technical service bulletin. Tomorrow I am buying a new DR650. No waterpump.
  7. flyinal

    Waterpump catastrophe

    The very first time the pump started leaking (when running, at 8000 miles) I pulled the seals and replaced all. At that time I used Permatex (dark orange) on the back of the impeller seal. You put a tiny bit on it and when you press down lightly it should still seat flush. I know how to fix the pump and have done it without problems. This issue started at 17000 miles. You could add water and sometimes drive for days without a leak. It seemed like the typical WP issue with the DRZ. (should not have happened with first RTV fix, and this may be significant) So, once again I pulled/replaced all parts (but impeller and cast) and RTV'd the new impeller seal. As I added water to the radiator there was a drip-drip. Took about 45 minutes to emtpy the radiator just sitting there. Verified that it was coming from the weephole and not from anywhere else. Took it apart. Noted that the motor and back-end of the waterpump assembly were dry. If you see how the pump is constructed, this infers that the water is going around the impeller somehow and not the other seals. Took to dealer #1. They were baffled and asked to do all again. It still leaked when you filled it. They did not use RTV on the impeller seal. Charged me for parts and 50 for labor. (accepted this because they had it for 45+ days!) Got it back and dissembled to check work. Looked good. Put RTV on their work. Still dripped. Replaced front seals and impeller seal again (not bearings), still dripped. It is at dealer #2 and they are trying to figure out what to do. I have pushed on both dealers to call Suzuki to see if this is known or not. I have also suggested that they see if we can get a complete, assembled waterpump and try that route. So, I am just looking for any suggestions to give the mech's so I do not have to wait 2 weeks to get new parts and find it leaks again. I appreciate any assistance or comments offered.
  8. flyinal

    Waterpump catastrophe

    Just want to know if there is anything else that can be causing the problem. Anyone else ever have a problem with the WP leaking when you filled it? I have done this WP and others before and there is nothing complicated about it. I do not want Dealer #2 to charge me another $70 for parts I know are not going to fix the problem. (not to mention the 150 for labor - i'm out almost 400 so far) But I don't know what else to do. We can replace the impeller and cast if it is helpful but I cannot see how they can cause this problem. I'm stuck with a bike that the local Suzuki mechanics cannot fix. (forget that I could not fix either) So, without some suggestions I have no more options. I agree that it is likely something minor, but no one has found it so far and no one seems to know what else to look at. Was only hoping someone on TT would have some ideas. I was not aware I had to justify a request for help after having searched for past threads on the subject. I'll stop bugging everyone then.
  9. flyinal

    Waterpump catastrophe

    At 8000 miles the waterpump started leaking (the known leak you get when engine is running). The parts (except impeller and cast) were replaced and the bike was fine. Rode bike another 9000 miles and it happened again. That's two water pumps in 17000 miles.
  10. flyinal

    Waterpump catastrophe

    Aluminum cast part is the stock one. Mic'd the impeller as did the dealers. Could that be it anyhow???? FYI: When you press that seal with the spring into the cast you can see where you can put some water to ensure that seal is not leaking, either through the rubber, or through the area it was pressed into the cast. When you put water there (laying the cast on its side) no water seeps out. In any event the water always seeps out of the weep hole. It never goes into the engine, so this means it has to be the ceramic disc on the impeller or the spring-loaded seal right? Current bid for my 'parts bike' is $2000. While your offer of $10 is close, i'll have to pass for now. 2 pumps in 17000 miles is not frustrating - its a poor design no matter how you slice it.
  11. flyinal

    Waterpump catastrophe

    Water pump #2 started leaking the last week of June. (17500 miles) I replaced all the gaskets, orings, and parts except impeller, reassembled, and the pump leaked when you FILLED it. (never ran the bike). Took bike to Suzuki Dealer #1. They replaced all parts again except impeller, reassembled, and the pump leaked when you FILLED it. They worked on bike for 45 days, mostly waiting on parts from what they told me. After 50 days I got the bike back and only had to pay for parts and 50 for labor. They cannot stop the leak. (STILL never ran the bike. this is a leak you get as soon as you fill the radiator) Took bike home. Gutted entire waterpump. Took pump to another shop (not dealer) and had new seals and bearings installed. Assembled last night and pump leaks when you fill the radiator. Took bike to last Suzuki Dealer #2. They just called. Pump leaks when you fill it. They do not know what to do and want to replace all the pump parts AGAIN. When the pump leaks, it leaks out of the 'weep hole'. No water gets into the engine or clutch area. There is a test for the press-in seal and it is watertight. Impeller is perfect and has no measurable wear using a micrometer. Tried ceramic impeller seal with and without RTV (3 times) and it makes no difference. So, I give up! Any places to look we may not have thought of? Got to fix this so I can get rid of it and RIDE again! (NEVER will buy a DRZ again. Two pumps in under 20K miles and the second one won't even seal up. I had bikes in the 70's and 80' that you put 30K on with only oil changes and valve checks. Screw this.)
  12. flyinal

    MCCT--bottom line question

    I checked the tension on my 03 ACCT tensioner (on an 01 DRZS) and found what you did - about 1/16th of play, and the chain was easy to move. So thats a 16th of play pulling on the chain ON the cam gears. (chain is not straight going over the gears) Since the bike was apart for a water pump failure I checked the chain at its bottom-most point and it also had the same amount of play. If there is a 16th of play when the bike is not running then there is no LESS play when the bike is running. The only difference would be that of the chain moving as most of the cam chain is well-surrounded by guides. Having worked on bikes for over 20 years it makes no sense that the chain is too tight when you and I find play in the chain using a well-designed ACCT tensioner. And, on my bike I checked the chain at 4000 miles and yesterday at 17000 miles - still about 1/16th of play anywhere. I agree that the ACCT before 2003 was prone to failure. And the failure caused major motor damage. Anyone can see that the 2003 and later tensioner is desinged much better. Since I replaced my 2001 tensioner with the 2003 acct model I can tell you that if you use a spring resistance measuring tool you will see that they have almost the same amount of potential spring tension in the 2001 and the 2003. This tells me that the spring tension is fairly constant from DRZ model to model, even if the design of the tensioner is not. While I have heard of questionable bearing conditions in the heads and various reports of 'odd noises', it makes no sense that the chain is too tight when there is a consistent amount of play in the chain. FWIW, after 17000 miles the valves are still perfect, and the bike has been a tank. There is no visible problems with the heads, cams, or any of the cam chain guides. If the chain was too tight I would not expect the bike to be in this condition. Put in the 03 ACCT and go drive it until the water pump starts to leak That WILL happen!
  13. flyinal

    Different mods for everyone

    Put on the Suzuki rear rack and lashed a bright orange milk crate to it. Now I can carry bigger items (rear drums for a Chevy, chainsaw, groceries, etc) on the DRZ and the horrible milk crate seems to reduce the incidents of 'hood surfing' as it makes the bike even more visible (obscene). Yep. I'm the guy in Texas you can see and hear a half-county away on the yellow bike with the orange crate and his daughter on the back. Its like freakin' Mad Max sometimes. GottaLuvIt.
  14. flyinal

    DRZ400S starting issue.....please help

    I know exactly what you are talking about. I have an 01 and it would do the same thing. When I did not ride for a few days (which is VERY rare) it was hard to start the bike and sometimes I wore down the battery doing it. Let me save you some time: NOTE: You do need to get the valves checked. They can cause this problem. BUT, if you check them and they are spot-on like mine were, you have the same issue I had. - If you take the bike to someone to check it out, they will find no problem or tell you the bike was flooded. Both are wrong. - If you ride at freeway speeds when it is raining hard you will have the problem when you try to start it the next morning. - If you pull the plug you will have a spark no matter what the symptoms. - If you crank the bike awhile you will think it is flooded from the smell of fuel. - Not knowing how to solve the problem will eventually kill your battery. Never let the battery get low. Charge with a low rate, like 2 amps, and you can runit down without shortening the life. The key with the problem is FUEL. I cannot explain this as I spent months on the problem, but you just have to flood the pee out of the motor to get it running again. (assuming you are having the issue I did) When it happened to me, I eventually worked out this set of steps to get the bike lit before the battery died: (I only crank the starter for 3-4 seconds at a time, and this works every time now) - Try to start the bike and notice that it will not go. - pull the choke ALL the way out. - crank a few times - may light occasionally, but probably not. - open the throttle about 50-75% and crank with the choke all the way on. (Do this about 3 to 5 times. If you are on the right track you will feel it fire occasionally or you will hear a pop from the rich mixture) - Close throttle and crank some more with choke on. If the bike starts to light you have to give it a bit of throttle to get it running. Drop the choke to the middle position, or off if it will run. I had about 5 failures like you mentioned. Took it for service, checked everything, even dismantled the carb, but nothing would work. One morning I was in a hurry and the bike would not start. Did the throttle/choke combo and it lit in under 3 minutes (still had to crank some, but it would run). FYI: Rejetted the bike with stock exhaust and the problem went away.
  15. flyinal

    Suzuki does care - shock and awe

    The -orings I needed are not completely 'o'. One was for the oil filter cover (can you believe that the dealer didn't have one in stock?) and the others were for the waterpump, where it seals off from the engine case (critical or you get coolant in the clutch!) The dealer is Bastrop Power Sports in Bastrop Texas. The Suzuki customer service number is: 714-572-1490. Customer service representatives are available from 8:30AM to 5 PM PST. It helps if you have your VIN number along with the dates and times for your 'issues'. Since I had this info they were able to help me quickly and without a plethora of questions. FYI: Suzuki called again today to give me a tracking number for the shipment. Of course I *STILL* do not have the parts in my hands, but I know that dealer is getting quite an earful from Suzuki and the parts really are on the way.