SixPak

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About SixPak

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  1. No, not strange at all. In fact, most do this...
  2. Look on the back side of the oil container and look for the circle containing the API Service Rating, i.e., SJ, SL, SM, etc. The viscosity of the oil will be listed in the center of the circle. If it says "Energy Conserving" in the lower half of that circle, DO NOT USE that oil in a motorcycle with a wet clutch, such as DR's. That oil has friction modifiers that will eventually ruin your clutch pack and cause it to start slipping. Like the guys above said, use a good "motorcycle" oil, preferable a high quality synthetic like Mobil 1 or Amsoil. Here's a good one: http://www.amsoil.com/StoreFront/mcf.aspx
  3. I had a similar problem, but mine was that the bike would studder badly between 2200 - 2700 rpm's. I tried all postions on the Kientech needle and it wouldn't stop studdering. Went back to the stock needle and it runs without studdering. I'm running a 140 main jet. Any ideas why the Kientech needle caused the studdering? It was tough to get the engine over 3,000 rpm, but when I did it took off really strong. should I just shim the stock needle to get a little more mid-range punch?
  4. 1999 Suzuki DR350SE Dual Sport Original Mikuni CV Carb 140 Main Jet (Stock main jet was 127.5) Stock 37.5 Pilot Jet Jesse tapered needle w/5 slots, running on 3rd position Air Box Mod (3x3 cut out on top) Jesse stock exhaust mod Bike idles great at around 1500 rpm. Won't take a fast twist of the throttle. When accelerating normally, engine sputters, runs rough between 2200 & 2700 rpm. After that, it really cranks and runs real strong. The sputtering really makes it difficult to hold a steady speed. Suggestions?
  5. My son just acquired a new DR650SE also . Can any jetting be done without airbox or pipe mods? Dave