FortunateSon

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About FortunateSon

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    North Carolina
  1. Make sure the oil level is high enough to provide enough "coolant" (read oil). Also, it may be time to check your valve clearance. While you're at it, check all the timing marks. If your valve chain is worn, it might affect your valve timing. Try changing the plug. Is it running too lean - slow to warm up, anemic power? Just some ideas.
  2. I've had the same problem, but I have a pro-raptor easy pull clutch lever. Problem is that it didn't pull the clutch far enough when in easy pull mode. I've since adjusted it and had major improvements. Here's the deal with clutch throw: As per the shop manual, the cable should have a bit of slack when the clutch is let out all the way. BUT what they don't tell you is that it should also pull the cable far enough so that it's TOTALLY disengaged at the point of full pull. Keep that in mind as you adjust. As for oil: Suzuki recommends using an oil rated MA - that's japanese for "ok to use in a wet clutch off-road vehicle" That means using something like Yamalube. I think Castrol makes an off-road formula that's also rated MA. When I read it carefully, it seems as though this is only a recommendation. What they're pretty firm about is NOT using a car oil that is rated as "energy conserving" If that's what it says on your Castrol bottle, you're using the wrong stuff. I think it's because it has detergents or thinners or something. I'm currently using some dirt-cheap Mobil 10-40. It doesn't say "energy conserving" in the little EPA ring and it has a low rating (SG I think). Seems to be ok.
  3. Standard size. Made a mistake. It's called "Southwick" not "Southport" Not sure if they still have them at that price, but easily worth $20 more!
  4. Hey all, I put this tire on the rear of my DR-Z250 this spring to better handle the muddy conditions. Can't express how happy I am with this tire. Much better than stock and cleans out FAST! Great at getting me out of mud holes. Got it for $43 at rockymountainatvmc.com on clearance.
  5. I have an asterisk for my left knee. They're solid, but they don't stay secure. At first I had to ditch the lace sliders because they kept working loose. Cute, but a very poor design. Tying the laces worked for a while, but now the buckles that secure the lacing to the outside of the brace keep unsnapping as I ride. They protect really well when they're secure but are totally useless when they come undone.
  6. Just my 2 cents: In any purchase I ever made, I never regretted going up a notch. Had plenty of regrets going down a notch (model, brand etc.) I was at the track, kinda regretting getting my DRZ (too big, to heavy etc) when a guy on a CRF230 started asking me about it. I offered he take mine for a ride and so we switched for a lap. After one lap, I had no more regrets. If you can't get the deal you want on a DR-Z250, I'd also look for a TT-R250 which is practically a clone. Old XR250s can still be gotten for a song too.
  7. Yeah, Mark at NCMP tried to get some of those funds, but there are just too many hoops to jump through. Even when opening a commercial park, you need all sorts of land use permission and inspections etc. The whole idea would be to keep the govt. out by having some private property where "friends of the owners" could ride. I'll keep my eyes out. Send me a PM if you find any leads.
  8. 3.50 / gallon for me means > $20 to get from Durham to NCMP or SpeedCompound. Add gate fees and it's really starting to hurt. Not to mention the hour + ride each way. I know a few local "back woods" trails (read private land not posted) that I've ridden on, but it's usually just a matter of time before you get the boot on these. Anyone know any private land owners in the Triangle that would be willing to lease / rent their land? I think it would be pretty cool to form a private "club" and work out a deal with a landowner so we could get some local riding. I think being private deal should shut out the Govmint from imposing all sorts of "use" and survey hoops to jump through. Any thoughts?
  9. Just angle them down. Mine have saved my knuckles dozens of times. I don't want to think of what pain I would have been in without them. The one time I partially endoed, my hands went OVER the bark busters because they were angled down! PS I bought the cycra plastic shields to go on the outside of the busters. Mounted them. Sat on the bike. Grabbed the grips. Got off of the bike and removed the shields. They're on the shelf now. IMO if you're running BBs, angle them down and don't use shields.
  10. Sorry if this is in the wrong place. If you know of a category here or another ATV site, let me know and I'll delete it. I'm just askin' because this is a great community with a lot of varied off-road experience. I want to get my kids into off-road riding, but I know bikes won't work for them. I HATE ATVs. This leads me to dune buggies. I like the idea of a roll-cage and harness. Here are my questions: Feel free to send a private message. 1 What are the pros and cons. 2. What brand, size are good for beginners (10 yrs and 13 yrs (and 42 sometimes:thumbsup: ) 3. Is the low clearance a problem? The all seem sort of low. 4. What kind of terrain can they really handle. 5. Are ATV parks generally ok with them? THANKS!
  11. Clean and gap the plug. clean carb and air filter.
  12. Pep boys has really gone downhill. I wouldn't be surprised if the battery is bad (they may not them often enough and not tend to the ones that sit on the shelf) Even if it reads 12v, sometimes there is just not enough juice behind it. It's happened to me. You should be able to kick it over even with a dead battery. Try it.
  13. I just turned out the fuel screw. I tried a larger pilot, but ended up with fouled plugs. Maybe if I added a slip-on I'd need it, but rule of thumb is that you can go as far out as 2 more turns from stock before replacing the jet. As far as break-in goes, I wouldn't worry too much. Mine has about 300 miles on it and I had to rebuild the top-end twice! (Swamped it twice - don't ask!) The rings and cylinder walls were pristine and I'm definitely not the extra cautious type. In fact, the only problem I noticed inside was a build up of carbon on the valves. This was probably due to my bad habit of leaving the choke on while I suit up. Therefore, I tend to favor it on the lean side. Less harm can be done - after all, that's how they come from the factory.
  14. Purchased. Has info for both carbs.
  15. On the newer models it's locked under a brass cap which you have to drill out.