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Yotoma

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About Yotoma

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    Hawaii
  1. While not really wanting to lose the support of the learned and helpful company here, my primary responsibility is to the health of the bike. If the quickshot AP cover has a good track record of reducing/eliminating the annoying stumble, I would, in all fairness to the bike, need to try it. The consequences of it working would mean a lot more riding and not as much time spent here at Jetting. Has anyone direct experience with the Boyesen QuickShot Keihin FCR Accelerator Pump Cover for such bogging? If not the quickshot cover, then what could one do as far as the AP diaphram or pump settings? http://www.boyesen.com/article/articleview/99/1/32
  2. BTW, are all of the OEM AC pump covers similar, i.e. offer same benefits?
  3. So... In street application for a 625 SMC supermoto with a FCR 41 where when you whack the throttle really fast to wide open from a low RPM you get a slight hesitation/stumble or bog for about a half second before it takes off, it would seem the more likely problem has more to do with too WEAK of a squirt and NOT too much squirt volume? If true, how effective is the Boyesen Quickshot AC pump cover in a street big bore single application? Anybody have experience with this product and how well did it get rid of that stumble? Sounds like BK mod is more to do with dirt application because tire spins letting engine rev up faster. Is that sort of right? I don't rightly know if I need bigger pants or just suspenders to hold up current pants.
  4. Yotoma

    lc4 rear rack? need to find one.

    can't help with attachments, but would love to see pics.
  5. Yotoma

    lc4 rear rack? need to find one.

    Would be great to hear (and see pics) of new rack, installation steps/problems, weight, cost, quality, and fitment. Are you going with standard 45L bag? What about the passenger handle thing? Appreciate your follow up.
  6. Yotoma

    lc4 rear rack? need to find one.

    There is a rack and top case available to fit the newer SMC bikes with dual exhaust. However, the rack weights 6 lbs!!! However, it does not seem to hurt the bikes handling. The KTM PN for the rack is 58612027050. The top case is actually from a 950 Adventure. There are two sizes. You can mount either 950 top case (large or small) on the KTM SMC rack. All of this stuff and more was clearly listed on the KTM web site this summer. The base plate for mounting the top case is sold separately from top case and its base plate. The base plate is molded plastic. It comes with the top case. The picture shows the rack before the base plate is attached. http://www.ktm.com/fileadmin/systemdata/hardequipment/58612027050_MR_640LC4_2005.jpg http://www.ktm.com/41.0.html?detailview=3&cHash=7890c20986# http://motocykle.ktm.sk/katalog/mounting-kit-for-topcases Try www.ktmhutt.com. Phone toll free: 877-RACEKTM.
  7. Can anyone positively confirm (with photographic evidence) whether the KTM axle sliders (part numbers noted below) are compatible with and will work/fit on a '06 625 SMC? Note: looking for answer that is specific to this particular application, as it is not all that clear because not all axles, cap nuts, chain adjusters are the same. I've recieved conflicting information, so wanted to see if anyone has a clear answer on this or, even better, has installed these exact same sliders on this exact same bike. Quantity Item / Item Code Price AXLE SLIDERS - Front 548.03.045.000 $35.99 AXLE SLIDERS - Rear 548.03.046.100 $35.99
  8. Yotoma

    KTM sliders on '06 625 SMC?

    Can anyone positively confirm (with photographic evidence) whether the KTM axle sliders (part numbers noted below) are compatible with and will work/fit on a '06 625 SMC? Note: looking for answer that is specific to this particular application, as it is not all that clear because not all axles, cap nuts, chain adjusters are the same. I've recieved conflicting information , so wanted to see if anyone has a clear answer on this or, even better, has installed these exact same sliders on this exact same bike. Quantity Item / Item Code Price AXLE SLIDERS - Front 548.03.045.000 $35.99 AXLE SLIDERS - Rear 548.03.046.100 $35.99
  9. One thing to do as well.... Post over at Jetting under Technical Forums. Include all info from previous posts and see if Eddie might be able to respond. Try not to adjust too many things at once. Popping isn't bad. Try sticking with 45 idle jet and adjust needle. Raise it, test, lower it test. This should be after you have a clean idle/fuel screw setting. A 182.5 sounds big. 45 idle sounds okay. Don't test with choke on - that's not the way you plan on running normally so eliminate that variable. Does it change when hot? Eddie is expert. So unless you going to make the shop fix the problem that they didn't fix when putting on the pipes, etc., check jetting forum.
  10. Sounds like a jetting issue. Your local KTM service mechanics that performed the work should be responsible for dialing the carb in so the bike achieves its maximum given your set up. After all, you did spend over $1,200 for Akro, airbox, carb jetting, right? Tell them it just ain't right. Get them to move needle. Don't think 45 idle is too big. Don't think it is the float level either before they try needle & fuel screw adjustments. How does it perform running at other throttle positions?
  11. Yotoma

    625 SMC-How is it?

    My '06 625 SMC initially shocked me with its vibration. But now with 700 mi. on it either I'm getting used to it and/or it has settled down a bit. Did the carb derestriction, JD re-jet, open air box, change out to 15T sprocket, and modified end caps. Loads of low end power and BRRRRRRR! Probably go to 16T cuz it is working hard to keep 65 mph on the freeway. Will go to a Renzaco seat cuz that board is killing my ass. Thinking of Scott steering damper and Stenhouse lift to make it easier to steer. Besides that the bike just rips. Tried my friend's stock Suzuki DRZ - - even he says the Suzuki is like a wet noodle and such a narrow power band. The LC4 rips.
  12. Did more testing. Switched in blue 3rd notch. Became very hard to start with fuel screw in or out, choked, and idle setting up. On wicking throttle, cuts out. The bog/stumble when wacking open, that has been problem trying to fix, is still there- - hot or not. Went to 4th notch blue and easier start, but still stumbled. Blue needle felt less full on power generally, a more hollower feel. Went back to Red at 3rd. This feels better throughout range, but that stumble is still there. I think I've done all I can with needle and clip settings. Is there an accelerator pump setting/adjustment that should be checked? Could this be a squirt duration/amount related issue? I haven't touched settings as came new from shop, but I don't know if the shop adjusted during their prep. Could float height be an issue. Again, I haven't touched this (and I really don't want to!) yet. Thanks!
  13. Thanks for input. What exactly is "realign the wheel"? Is that the same as balancing the wheel (with rim weights)? Is it to align the chair tensioners? Or have someone check the disc itself for alignment (warp)? Is the disc adjustable? I cant see anyway that is adjustable to "align" it, as it just bolts to the hub. The calipers and brake housing are in a fixed alignment with the wheel in the vertical and lateral axis, I think. It only adjusts by sliding back and forth horizonally to account for chain tightening/adjustment. The pads are not adjustable, they just slide in. Do you have any information on the computer alignment specifications that you refer to? How does the shop use the computer to align the wheel? Does your local KTM dealer do computer alignments? How much? The bike is brand new. The wheel and disc have not been dropped, dinged, bent, hit, or nicked.
  14. I'd not be surprised by this squeaking happening later on when the bike is a little older, but this is a new SMC with less than 500 miles on it. And the noise started soon after doing the sprocket change out. So I hope it will be fixed with sandpaper and brake cleaner fluid. Could it in anyway be caused by a too tight chain? I think I got the tension/freeplay right, but.... I am a novice.
  15. This has got me sweating bullets. Did I screw up my rear disc brake or is this something with a straight forward fix? Problem: Brand New '06 KTM 625 SMC. Stock counter sprocket was a 17T, so changed out to a 15T. In process had to readjust chain tension. Used chain adjusters as best I could to match left and right side equally. While there, changed basic position of foot brake pedal by adjusting push rod and stop roller. There is the recommended 3-5 mm free play on the foot pedal before piston in the brake cylinder moves. With bike on the lift, the rear wheel spins freely, but with a very slight brake pad rubbing for about 1/4 of the rotation. Is this okay? Don't see why only a 1/4 rotation. Should it not be rubbing at all? Now out on the road using the brake I get a SQUEAK!!!!. Not all the time. Not under hard braking, but seems like under easy braking as the pads start to grab. Very scary metal rubbing sound. I've got a picture to post, but don't know how. Question: Could this be because of mis-aligned chain adjusters? What is tolerance on getting left and right side equal? Could this be because of me accidently getting grease/oil/dirt/whatever on the disc or pads while working down there? If so, how to clean? Could this be because of imsaligned brake pads? I did pull them out of the caliper to see what they looked like. I put them back same way cause it is so easy, I think. HELP!! It is driving me nuts worry about screwing up the disc or other components. It should not squeak at all.
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