TroyKrum

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About TroyKrum

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    California
  1. Yamaha

    Can the front engine mount be polished or would a guy have to buy a new set, like the ones from ESR?
  2. Yamaha

    I raced several times and won every time... My yfz450, piped, jetted, no lid, K&N against a Raptor 660 stock, a Banshee with toomey 5s, jetted, boost bottle, cool head, and carbon fiber reeds, another Banshee with toomey 6s, jetted, boost bottle, and a KFX 400. Won evertime... the closest the more modified Banshee got was about 4 bike lengths. To give them credit they were barely getting into 6th gear... so maybe the quarter to half mile wasn't long enough. There was a Raptor 700 out there but didn't race. We never switched riders to see if it was the bike or rider but I never have been a two stroke guy anyway.
  3. Yamaha

    I think I might try that method... LOL! Good luck!
  4. Yamaha

    I think you will be happy with both... I am assuming you are looking at these two bikes as new. The new raptors are very nice machines... a bit heavy compared to the YFZ and are easier on the trail. If it is racing you plan to do, the 450 is a better choice. I use my 450 as a rec bike... no racing and i love it. However, the next bike we buy will be for my wife and I am trying to convince her she needs a new Raptor 700R. In short... my opinion would be... they both would work just great for you. Sooner you get one the sooner you can ride. Getter Done!
  5. Yamaha

    NEVER BUY A 400EX - if you want a good bike, cheap cost, and managable - get the Suzuki Z400 or Kawasaki KFX400 depending on the color that you want. Both the same bikes but built well. It is a good starter quad and can be built up for performance. These quads has good suspension and is water cooled. Those two areas alone make it better than the 400EX. Honda makes good toys, but the 400EX is behind the technology. And I would wait for the Suzuki 450 to be out a year or so to test the motor and components. If you have to have the Raptor 350 or the YFZ 450... I would pay the extra 3 grand and get the 450. You can always go slow on your 450 but you will need to put more money (exceeding $3000) into that Raptor 350 to make it go as fast. Remember, you can always ride a fast quad slow, but you can't ride a slow quad fast (unless you like slow quads).
  6. Yamaha

    The Test: It is common sense - more air into, and out of, the engine with more gas by jetting = more power. Bogus test - I noticed a difference in truck and bike engine both when I added a K&N. I can hear the engine sucking the air as fast it can... even causing a small whistle. My truck, 450, and 50 all run better with more air... expecially on a restricted california model. The Lid: I can see the benifit of the outerwear lid addition if you rode often in wet or muddy conditions... but if you clean your K&N like you are suppose to, run an outerwear over the filter, then you should have a problem taking the lid off. Again, just common sense.
  7. I believe the kill switch came with my kit... along with grips, which weren't listed either. They are standard 7/8" mx stlye grips. The ProTaper kit came with everything needed except grip glue, which i used spray paint. I would think the bending of the bars back and forth would cause them to weaken and brake... that wouldn't be good. Your kid coming over a hill hits a bump breaks his handle bars off at the throttle exposing a jagged sharp pipe to be impelled into his neck. Don't be cheap... be safe!!!!
  8. I bought my '05 for $1000 out the door. I was seeing them for a while right around the $850 mark... BRAND NEW!!!!
  9. I really enjoy the craftsmanship of my ProTapers. The mount is strong and adjustable... and you can run the bmx bars that come with it when he gets bigger and then get the sx bars for him to use while small. Chaparral has the kit that comes with everything you need for about $206.
  10. One of the first things I did was replace the old airbox with a pod filter. I like K&N becuase they let a lot of air in... all personal preference, but I have had great luck with K&N - but make sure you keep it clean. I noticed better throttle response... I had to play with the jetting a bit, but once you get that done and hear that engine sucking air it is all worth it. I run stock exhaust and don't plan to change it... I like to ride in the neighborhood and want it as quiet as possible. Even if I go with a bore kit I will still want to run the stock exhaust because doing wheelies up and down the street is why I got it!!!! Bottom line: Do something about that restrictive air box! Either modify it or get rid of it and add a pod filter.
  11. I used multipurpose grease I got at kragen or autozone. You want to make sure you load those springs up with that grease! The springs help out a lot. Have fun.
  12. If you take your right side (clutch) case off there is a screen the oil goes through before getting to the drain plug... so I am not really sure how a magnetic drain plug would be handy unless you removed that screen... or perhaps oil comes in from the bottom then through the screen and metal shavings are trapped in between the drain and the screen keeping them out of the engine area. What is the purpose of the screen? (I guess would be the question) And I don't see how a magnetic drain plug could hurt anything, only help.
  13. Depends on how bad of condition the inside of your cases are. Shouldn't be too bad. Here are some sites that help with the process... check them out and see if it is something you can do. For Adjusting your clutch... http://www.danosbikeshop.com/technical.php?OID=t0012 Two Bros. installation instructions... http://www.twobros.com/Cust_Service/Install_Inst/ - Go down to the XR50 and there are a bunch of instructions to help you out with a lot of different tasks. The clutch plates should be too difficult but take your time and do it right. You also might want to consider buying a Heavy Duty Clutch that comes pre assembled... you just toss it in and go. Something to look into. If you don't go that way, be sure to add the Heavy Duty clutch springs when you rebuild your old clutch. They will help the clutch grab when you are riding it and with stand an 88cc kit.
  14. If the adjustments don't work, sounds like your clutch is shot.
  15. I was running out of options... I will take the handlebar kit off and check the headset nut. Doesn't feel to be any slop in the head set... it is a new bike. But I have checked everything else and still have a rattle and clunking noise. The clunking noise is only on quick extensions of the forks like jumping and/or bumps. When getting in to the bearings, should I swap the original ones out for the nice after market tapered roller bearings? Has anyone tried these and were they worth it?