RRmike

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About RRmike

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    Pennsylvania
  1. You ever figure this out? I got one doing the same thing, thinking of trying a different oil. Its running silkolene 10w-30
  2. Thanks, that was definitely it and its now fixed.. I reposted in the thread I started about the bike. Its a replacement motor and was very pissed when I heard what sounded like a *****ed cam chain - which is what happened to the original 2001 motor.
  3. It was the straight key on the primary drive gear (crank). I was a little shocked when I opened the side cover and found splines on the crank. They are apparently only for the clutch drive gear, the balancer gear (at the crank) was moving atleast 1/4 inch back and forth, I turned the key over and it fits snug now, tightened the crank nut (which was loose) and used all 3 sides on the lock washer to reinforce. I found the inner clutch hub severally beat too, its inner slug which is cast into the aluminum part allowed it movement as well. Luckily this is a 2001 bike, the original motor has a good part to swap in. Too bad the crank was toast or I would swap that in too. Now to button it up and get the idle circuit jetted a little richer.
  4. I heard the state police can forensically get the vin even after its ground off by acid etching or x-rays. Grinding off the vin is a crime in itself
  5. It definitely sounds like cam chain noise but the cam chain is primo, the wear strip at the top of the valve cover is not even touched and the cam chain is tight with no slop. I did find a couple posts that on the 4th page or so found the primary drive gear was slapping on the keyway. I will have to check on this. Im familiar with glowing headpipes, this is a little extreme.
  6. Did you ever figure this out? I am having the same problem to a TEE
  7. Im working on a YFZ426 and got a new motor for it, since the crank, head and valves were wasted on the old one from a skipping timing chain. The engine I got used is out of an ATV conversion, put it back into the bike. It had a wetsump conversion so I converted that back by putting the oil pump from the original in the new motor and putting the lines back where they should be including the Y line from the side cover, case and head. The motor starts, runs relatively good but makes alot of racket, almost rattling like a cam chain hitting a cover on down revs mostly but is usually present most of the time. The header pipe is scary hot, to the point its sparking (there is a little rust on the header pipe right outside the cylinder) and the rust is sparking off. I have to check the fuel/air screw but I am worried there is something else going on, do these engines make a fair amount of noise is it common for a rattle hear and there?
  8. The timing gear is chewed up, it keeps dropping valves into the piston from what the customer says it happened twice.
  9. I have a 426 in my shop thats been through hell. It dropped a valve and the previous owner had it rebuilt. The original shop never looked at the engine to determine why it failed, just replaced the parts and sent him on his way. Well the engine did the same exact thing a few hours later and the owner took it apart himself. He found the valve stuck in the piston and set it aside, sold it a year later to someone who brought it to my shop. It has been sitting here for months since I cant find cheap parts for it readily (was trying to not kill the guy on parts) Now I am trying to find a new used motor for it, or in the least a crank that is half cheap but I cant find anything 426 other than brand new. Anyone know if the cranks are the same or compatible in any of the other years?? Anyone have one they want to part with? otherwise I need a whole motor. I can get a new hotrods crank complete in budget, but need to know if it will work.