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About tmauto69

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  1. you may not have to drill them out, I have had this happen before on Kawi's and Honda's. I just took a pick and backed the broken part out of the hub with little to no effort. I don't think those bolts break due to the end of the bolt bottoming out, I think they break due to a combination of fatigued bolts/coils binding/too much torque.
  2. And that is why I preferred the seperate oil chambers in the older bikes
  3. Don't to me either. I didn't think that any of the cells were in the red with any of the factory based maps. Also I would be suprised if that thing isn't puffing black smoke. That seems like it is really rich.
  4. Let us know how they work out. I have 15hrs on mine with all the stock stuff, and I thought I felt it slip the last time I rode it.
  5. I did bump up to a 50t when it was stock and didn't really care for it. It seemed to magnify the jerkiness. After I remapped it and installed the slip ons, it pulls the stock gearing off the bottom end just fine. I did install ride engineering pull rods on it and rode last weekend with those. I do like those, as it seems to stay down in ruts a lot better.
  6. if you think the stockers are loud, you will hate the fmf duals. I am about to order the quiet inserts for them. Sorry I don't have sound meter results, but they are loud enough to make me just about start wearing ear plugs.
  7. This won't help you at this point, but I put anti-sieze on mine when I first got it and it has been fine.
  8. same cable but I think they updated the software so you may need a new disc.
  9. everything will work with the exception of the shifter, and that MAY work I haven't tried it because it is a different part number. Everything else I can confirm works as I have transferred all that to my 17
  10. Really the only way you are going to get the 18 mapping is to buy an 18 ecu. The base maps are different which you can only add or take away fuel or ignition advance. You might be able to get it close but it is really a shot in the dark doing it that way. Honda hides this info so it is really hard to know what each bike has. ie.. just as an example the 17 might have +8* advance at 6500rpm where the 18 may only have 4* advance at 6500, and the app shows this as zero's in the cells. So even if you modify both bikes with 4* more/less advance at 6500 rpm you still have that 4* spread between the two. I wouldn't get to wrapped up in having to have the 18's mapping, just map yours where you want it, or send it off to somebody if you don't know how or like I said above if you really really have to have the 18 mapping buy the 18 ECU.
  11. Thats kind of like asking which is the best steak, you will get 10 different answers. JASO MA is what is recommended in a wet clutch system. Also on the back in a little circle make sure it does NOT say "energy conserving". My choice is Honda GN4 or Lucas, not because I think they are any better or worse than most, they are easy to come by, they work as they should for their intended purpose and they are not ridiculously priced. Cue the Rotella argument in 3....2...... Doh! weight either 10w40 or 10w50 is what I think my manual recommends, I am not near it right now. This is the dumbed down version, click this to get more info if you need it. https://passenger.lubrizoladditives360.com/understanding-jaso-ma-and-mb/
  12. yeah, that was kind of the conclusion I came to as well when I tried some years ago. I really didn't notice a whole lot of difference except my wallet felt a lot lighter.
  13. IMO this bike responds well to being ridden aggresive, where as the older models were fine with just poking around on. This one not so much, I have noticed if I am not really into riding that day and just go anyway, it makes for a bad day lol. But when I get pissed off at it and twist it, and throw it into corners the thing works really well. The mid range and up power of this motor is pretty incredible. I guess if I had a complaint about the power delivery it is that transition from the bottom to mid range could be a little more smooth. That was helped some with the mapping changes but it could be better. \ I think my next change is going to be opposite to what I have been doing, and advance the timing right off the initial throttle opening then taper it off into the mid range to see if that makes it better. Kind of like the map that clutch killer posted up, but maybe no advance in the upper mid range and up.
  14. A little less than 10% but yeah, close enough I guess.
  15. what is the offset stock? what is yours doing that it isn't cornering well? I am getting ready to order stiffer fork springs for mine as it seems to dive a bit too much in corners imo
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