rkuckkahn

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About rkuckkahn

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    Nebraska
  1. Check the classifieds I just posted passenger pegs and uni filters. The pegs are like new never carried a passenger because the sag is so hard to adjust for the added weight (wife is too big.......I mean tall.......to fit the rear seat)
  2. Very interesting, I always thought foam was the most efficient????????????????
  3. I have all the carb mods and use a UNI (foam/oil) it's worked great. Have two of them, one is always "drip drying" oil. I clean the spare filter, saturated it with filter oil, put it in a plastic bag and let it drip excess oil. The when I'm ready to change filters no problems with excess oil dripping on the bike.
  4. My list for remote areas: There's nothing worse than being out there, knowing the problem and no way to repair. I've never used any of this, the bike is bullet proof but adding 8 lbs of insurance is a no brainer for me. Tire irons, tube repair patches Fuses Valve and tool to remove/replace tiny flashlight small hose clamp first aide kit (for me) include needle and thread, pills (alergy, achs pains), antibiotic use as a lubricant too (tire changes) air pump, and small inflator can with sealant crescent wrench 8" the only real full size tool I carry Rear axle nut wrench (comes in the factory kit with extender handle) allen wrenches socket set 4,6,8,10,12mm 3/8" drive, 4" drive extender multi tool (leatherman for me) vice grip mult tip screw driver spark plug and wrench (comes in factory kit) zip ties, duct tape, electric tape (not whole roles obviously, just 3-4 foot pieces) epoxy puddy, the metal repair stuff that you kneed together (1/2 container) a 2 foot piece of wire, a couple of wire crimp connectors adjustable slot pliers Think that's about it. Water in camel pack (or beer/wine/cooler better yet leave that behind) , Optional but nice in a pinch energy bars, lighter, magnifying glass, compass, whistle, thermometer. Excluding water you should be able to carry it all in a rear fender pack (not including the water) and add 8-10 pounds. I removed more than 10 pounds through fender mods, remove the wings, removing rear foot pegs, removing smog, after market pipe and plastic tank. Anyway the only time I ever used any of this was to work on a buddies Kawa 650 and had everything I needed. Also had to straighten out a shift lever for a son and had to adjust a brush guard after a fairly serious fall. Like I said it's more insurance and not much added weight. I've never been close to any bike induced problems but hate to think about not having the right (or any) tool for a minor repair that would otherwise force you to walk. Bending my sons shift lever without tools.......impossible and the bike would have been a no go without getting it straight.
  5. Since there is no real pattern, other than at idle, for it quitting. My experience suggests the CDI or the carb float/needle "sticking".
  6. With all the mods I run around 200 to 220. 300 is hot IMO. The oil dipstick is an indicator only again IMO. I've been watching it for some time now and 250 is high for me, hard running trails, but again if your not in the 300 range all the time I'd be happy with 250. Changing the oil is the key. High temps change it more often. I change the filter everyother oil change though. Just don't think it necessary to change the filter cause it's a pain. I'll change oil every 1000 miles or so. You can also take a little on your finger from the dipstick and get a "feel" (no pun intended) if it's super thin or dark change it more often. Every bike and rider is different I just got to know it and base my 1000 mile interval on by own riding.
  7. I'd say for 0 ft your main isn't rich enough, I'm at 3800 and run a 160, but it's true every bike is different, just check your plug to get an indication of proper mix. Heck if it's hauling you've got to be in the ballpark.
  8. My 04 L doesn't consume much at all. I don't have to add anything between 1500 mile changes. With only 10,000 mi I wouldn't want to be consuming much oil. I'd say something's up if you are. How much do you consume? I've seen some posts where guys are using a quart every 200 miles which seems way high to me.
  9. My vote Pirelli MT 21's. I use 130's without mods to the chain protectors. My opinion is that they are pleanty aggressive, stable on the road and mine have worn really well. I'll buy them again to replace. Front will last through two rears.
  10. I start with a new plug. Drive around until the engine is warmed up. Then I start a run far enough from my garage to run about 1/2 throttle for a minute (in a lower gear to match the local street speed limit) pull the clutch, kill the engine and glide to the driveway. Let it cool and check the plug for a nice warm brown color. You probably know that white is lean and black is rich (normally). An older plug can also be a great indicator of engine ignition conditions. The condition of the electrode (the little thingy attached to the plug bottom) is helpful for longer term conditions like preignition, too hot/cool plug type, etc. There are threads with pictures of plugs to help define what these are as well.
  11. You shouldn't be consuming that much oil, or should I say mine never consumed that much. Something is wrong either with the bike or the way you are checking it.
  12. I cut the stock fender: front 5" cut, rear I cut in "holes", rejetting(55/158, needle shimed, slide holes drilled, 2 1/2 turns on screw), smog off, snorkel off, aftermarket pipe(White Bros E with 6 disks), UNI air filter, took off the wings and run at 200-220 degrees (dipstick). At 3800 elevation. Once this engine is properly jetted and given the right amount of air it runs like it should. Lots of other mods but those are not related to heat.
  13. Clean air is key to engine life. I only use what the manufacture of the filter recommends. On my UNI I only use UNI oil.
  14. Yep K&N is good.....I just like UNI. The UNI had a mesh cage that fits inside the foam. The stock clamp fits it perfect. Not sure about your $35 thingy. Maybe spend another $35 for something that is "tight" It's a pretty important item and worth $35 of "education". Don't forget some grease to seal the filters contact line with the enclosure. It's often a place where "dirt" enters. On damaged bikes you can see trails of dirt on the carb side of the filter where a gap was not blocked.
  15. I think removing the snorkel is important as well as opening some holes in the seat supports. The snorkel is pretty restrictive and I think it is an added noise suppressor. Actually I didn't run the bike with the snorkel on, it was part of the mods I did with the filter, carb and exhaust. It did run really lean before the mods. And yes there is a very noticable difference in power with all the mods. From what I've read you need to do all the mods to make it all work. the fuel to air ratio is key to success and the only way to get in enough air to match the gas you add with the carb mods is to open 'er up.