ForrestF

Members
  • Content count

    88
  • Joined

  • Last visited

Community Reputation

11 Good

About ForrestF

  • Rank
    TT Member

Profile Information

  • Location
    Washington
  1. Did you drain the carb? Also check the little filter in the inlet tube on the carb. It may have gotten some goo in it.
  2. Too rich on the mix screw could cause a flat spot off idle. One thing that nobody has mentioned here is problems with the extended mixture screw. I tried the extended screw on my bike and it wouldn't screw in far enough to change the idle. I went back to the stock screw and had it dialed in within minutes. As mentioned above, the easy way to adjust the mix screw is to screw it in until is misses and back out 1/8 turn. I turned it in until it felt seated and the idle didn't change. Went back to the stock screw and worked like a charm. There are other posts from folks having troubles with the extended screws around also. I don't know if it's a machining problem or debris in the carb body threads as some suggested. I have a stubby screw driver in my tool roll but haven't needed to use it yet.
  3. It doesn't need to be a big heavy duty switch since it's only activating a relay. The relay handles the full power to the starter. You probably want something that is water resistant to some degree but you don't need anything too fancy.
  4. Note that proper carb setup is critical for smooth power delivery at any rpm. When I got my '02 DR650 it was really rough in the low end. It took a bit of experimenting to get the jets right. When I did, it smoothed out considerably at lower revs. Also note that tuning the carb for better high end can often sacrifice low end grunt. Things like drilling the slide can help more up top than down low. Intake velocity and vacuum are key for low end performance. When you drill the slide, it lets the slide ride higher at lower revs which actually slows down the air as it moves through the carb. Slower moving air has less inertia and is less effective at filling the combustion chamber. If the air moves too slow, it can stall in the carb when you open the throttle, leading to engine stutter or stalling. Higher velocity in a gas also means higher vacuum (or lower pressure) which makes fuel atomize or mix with air better. If you've ever ridden a big single or twin, like an older Guzzi or Ducati, with traditional slide carbs like the 36 or 40mm DelLortos, you know that it's actually possible to kill the engine by whacking open the throttle too fast from idle. That type of carb can offer great power and response but you do have to learn to modulate the throttle for best results. Pumps were added (pumper carbs) along the way to help combat poor atomization under acceleration but this is a rather inefficient way to deal with the real problem. This type of carb tends to run rich and waste a fair amount of fuel to get the best power. Think of the way big carbs are handled in car engines. 4-barrel carbs for street use have vacuum operated secondaries. This keeps velocity and vacuum high through the carb over all rpm ranges so fuel mixes properly, etc. One of the biggest advantages of the CV (for Constant Velocity - note the key word: velocity.) is the fact that you can't open the slide faster than the engine can take it. The slide only opens as vacuum increases from the intake. When properly tuned, they can be very effective at giving smooth throttle response from any rpm. When you try to trick the carb into opening faster with mods like drilling slides and cutting springs, it's easy to go too far and hurt performance instead of help. I see from your other posts that you've been modding your carb recently...
  5. There is most likely nothing wrong with the motor. Below 3,000rpm the motor doesn't make enough power to pull the bike in higher gears. This is called lugging and can damage the motor. The correct thing to do is not give it full throttle below 3k in higher gears. Downshift, this is why you have a transmission.
  6. The IMS tank vents through the cap, locking or not. The stock petcock does not have a vent hose. The second, smaller fitting on the stock petcock is for a vacuum line from the carb and is what opens the fuel valve. No vacuum to the fitting, no fuel will flow.
  7. If you want to eliminate the extra down time, find a used shock here in the classifieds, on the advrider.com classifieds, or on ebay for about $50 and send that off for rebuild. When you're done, sell the extra stocker to the next guy for $50. I have had Progressive, Works, and others over the years. I wouldn't bother with Progressive for any kind of spirited riding on or off road. Works performed better than Progressive but you pay extra for any kind of adjustability - even spring pre-load. My Works shocks didn't last very long either, they leaked in very short order on my Ducati. That was over ten years ago so quality may be different now. I recently got my DR shock rebuilt by Cogent. It was worth the wait, especially so for what you got for your dollar spent. I haven't put many miles on it yet but it really did transform the bike even for commuter duty. The bike feels planted and balanced now. Rick and his wife are great people to deal with. The price you quoted must include a new spring. Jesse and his wife at Kientech are also great people to deal with. I believe Rick at Cogent is a bit more of a suspension specialist and you get a bit more from his work like the hard-coating on the shock body and the adjustable rebound damping.
  8. You don't need to change any of the jets or the needle to get it to run better and get rid of the surging. The stock needle will work fine as long as you don't give in to the urge to do anything to the airbox besides pull the snorkle. Remove the rubber snorkle from the airbox, just yank it out. Shim up the needle ~.030" by inserting washers between the circlip and the thick plastic spacer on the needle. Remove the plug over the pilot screw and adjust for best idle. This typically means the screw ends up about 2 full turns out. That's all you really need to do. Of course, the urge to buy terrorizes all of us so it's very likely you'll give in before too long and buy the Dynojet kit, cut a big hole in the airbox, etc. But, you don't need to. All you need to spend is a few cents for a couple tiny washers and you'll see smoother throttle response and a tad more power.
  9. Just in case anyone is still wondering... I took a closer look at the sprocket as it sits on the shaft. It is actually not possible for the sprocket to slide far enough onto the shaft to contact the seal or anything else. While the sprocket does have a bit of play on the shaft, the chain guide on the swing arm keeps the chain in line. (Just like Lucas says above.) When the chain is mounted, the sprocket doesn't move back and forth much at all.
  10. Thanks Lucas. I have read through several threads/posts here and on advrider but wanted to see if I could get anyone new to come forward with any bad experiences. This is actually what I wanted to see. I'll grind down the retainer clip anyway just in case but I'll run it with the clip for now. I will check it periodically though the see if it rubs at all. I would hate to damage that seal prematurely.
  11. I'm getting ready to install an AFAM 14t sprocket and have both the stock retainer plate and circlip to choose from. I notice that the circlip allows the sprocket to float on the shaft splines to the point of being able to rub on the CS seal. Has anyone using the circlip seen any wear or rub marks on the seal or anywhere else?
  12. He's talking about the cam cover, not the head gasket or base gasket. Mine also weeps a bit there since I did my base gasket, but only a tiny bit so I'm waiting for something else to need work before I take mine apart again. There is no gasket there and it requires a good quality sealant to keep it from weeping. Has the cam cover been off before? If so, I would suspect that the wrong type of sealant was used, it was not cleaned well enough before the sealant was applied or sealant was not properly applied. It's not a major operation to take the cam cover off. The hardest part of the whole thing is cleaning the old sealant and all oil off without leaving gunk inside the engine. Get a good non-hardening, high temp sealant. Follow the manual's instructions and, on the plug side of the engine, apply a thin bead to both halves of the joint when reassembling. Pay close attention to where each bolt came out. The manual is wrong on a couple of bolt lengths. Replace the seals and crush washers on the oil lines that must be removed to get the cover off. Use a torque wrench and do not over-tighten the bolts. They only require about 5 lbs/ft of torque and, like any skinny bolt threading into aluminum, are easy to strip if you overdo it.
  13. Drilling jets can be a real crap-shoot. Besides the diameter of the hole, how smooth the hole is and the chamfer or bevel at the edge of the hole can make a big difference in flow for such a small hole. If you do drill jets, mark them some how so you know that jet has been drilled. It really sucks later when you grab a jet that says 145 out of your jet box and it turns out to be more like 170. When drilling soft material like brass, a slip or wiggle when drilling can turn your target of a 155 jet pretty easily into a jet that's effectively 160 or much more. Now if you don't have extra jets handy, you may not be riding this weekend. Unless you happen to have precision drills and a way to use them accurately, it's most often cheaper to buy a pile of jets for a couple bucks apiece. Buying a pile of extra jets: a few bucks, Having a bike that's ready to ride this weekend instead of one with a disabled carb: priceless!
  14. Does what, have a 747 land on it??
  15. Read through the whole thread. Can't say whether it's the same deal in NZ but here in the US we have two different versions of the bike. The F800gs and the F650gs, which is still an 800 but with some differences. Check the NZ version of the BMW web site for more info.