Jump to content

nickyd

Members
  • Content count

    33
  • Joined

  • Last visited

Community Reputation

10 Neutral

About nickyd

  • Rank
    TT Member

Profile Information

  • Location
    Delaware
  1. What exactly causes the seizure at high rpms? I'm looking at a big end seizure as well and can't find the culprit - I thought too high RPM's could be the problem but I'm not yet sold b/c the rider is not a rev limiter racer - I'd expect to see a mechanical failure from the high R's - like the bearing ripping apart and having the motor eat itself, but why the seizure? Does the big end lose lubrication at higher R's? Does it heat up excessively? Any thoughts would be helpful - thanks
  2. nickyd

    Oil Change Question

    Fill to the sight glass with the bike centered upright (ie not on the sidestand) - I use just a smidge over 2 qts with and oil and filter change and that usually gets it right in the middle.
  3. nickyd

    oil on the top of the engine 2009 dr650se

    Push for the dealer to check the head cover to see if its warped (they lay it on a flat stone and check for clearance with feeler gauges). If its out of tolerance and under warranty you should get a whole new head (the head and head cover are machined and matched together). We had to do this for a handful of DR's that came out of the dealership that I worked at over the years....
  4. nickyd

    Which year LTZ 400 should I get?

    Is there a specific gusset kit available from someone??
  5. nickyd

    How off is my speedo??

    I'll throw my 2 cents in here - I get somewhere between 80 - 100 before switching to reserve depending upon what type and how I am riding....my DR has a ported/polished head, Dynojet kit, stock air filter with no snorkel and no cover, as well as an IDS2 silencer....prior to the work I did get upwards of 115 before switching to reserve. I am considering a larger tank - it would be nice to get more mileage before having to gas up!
  6. nickyd

    DR 650 blowing smoke

    I have to chime in here....I've been both a tech and a service manager and will offer what advice I can - I also happen to own a DR with about 8k miles....so far I have to agree with what's been said thusfar. I'm guessing that the bike has been fixed by now, so my only suggestion to you is to find another dealer....if your bike was overfilled with oil, it can smoke - the crankcase vent is usually routed back into the airbox for safety reasons (ie, rather than have oil spew on the back tire, it goes to airbox) - from there, it makes it way back into the carb and voila, smoke....your dealer and at this point, you, should make sure the airbox, intake, crankcase vent and the airbox drain are clean, otherwise, the residual oil will make its way back into the intake and you'll have the smoking problem. As for the repairs and the excuses that they gave you, i think the explanation has already been given.....
  7. nickyd

    oil leak from head bolt

    That's what I did first as i thought that's where my leak was too - I would suggest that you spray the head clean with contact cleaner, blow it dry with compressed air - warm the bike up, take it for a short trip and then spray foot powder on the head to see EXACTLY where the leak shows up...its so hard to pinpoint since when you are riding air is swirling any leaking oil around all over. Good luck.
  8. nickyd

    oil leak from head bolt

    I'm not sure if me chiming in will help or scare you...I have an 03 DR 650 that has been plagued with leaks - at 600 miles, the paper base gasket failed (when I pulled the head - yes not under warranty as I bought it used in late 05) I found it had torn by the cam chain tensioner...after I fixed that (with the updated metal base gasket), I was trouble free until about 2000 miles when I developed the EXACT same leak that your picture showed. I traced it to the head cover right by the plugs - there is only a small sealing surface and I surmised it failed - so off came the head cover for take #2 - this time I used Hondabond as the sealer (the first time I used threebond) - that fix lasted another 500 miles and voila, back came the same leak.....I ignored it and rode it until about 7000 miles - at that point off came the head and I checked it for warpage - it showed way past the .002 that is allowed right at the spot that failed - so I surfaced the head and buttered it up this time with Black RTV - I rode it today for the first time and to my delight, no leak at the head...NOW its leaking at the cam chain tensioner - so tonight, i pulled the tensioner and found the gasket had torn - I just finished putting a new gasket WITH sealer.....wish me luck....My advice, take it to the dealer and let them do fix #1 and then any subsequent repairs will be on them (trust me, I'm a mechanic at a dealership and know how it works). On a side note, we've had one DR 650 leak at the crush washer that holds the head and cylinder on (right where your leak is in the picture) but its leaking was way way worse - oil spewed out....the repair was a new head as the surface under the copper washer was gouged beyond repair from assy at the factory. Good luck
  9. nickyd

    Gutting stock muffler

    spend your money on an IDS2 - I think you'll be so happy you'll smack yourself for ever thinking of cutting the stock 'wet fart' heavy muffler
  10. nickyd

    Anyone have a stock exhaust they want to sell me?

    I have one from an 03 - shoot me a message
  11. nickyd

    Help! slipping in 2nd gear

    if the bike revvs a bit when you accelerate and then clunks and catches, the dogs on 2nd gear are worn - what is happening is the dogs (there are 4 on each gear) are momentarily slipping and the gears separate enough to cause them to jump over one another before recatching - its common for 2nd gear to go - left untouched, you will find the bike jumping back into neutral. clutch plate wears across all RPMS and the clutch does not care what gear you are in - ditto for the worn chain and sprockets. if you don't mind taking it easy when accelerating, go for it, you won't cause any more damage. as for the posts citing finding chunks of metal - you won't - the dogs only need to round a small amount to cause slipping. the dogs don't usually "break off" persay, they simply round off - over time, you'd never see the worn off particles in your oil - they are simply too small.
  12. nickyd

    Clutch Plates & oil change question

    there are steel plates and fiber plates in your clutch - the steels are connected to the inner clutch hub, the fibers to the clutch basket - the fibers usually wear out first - but excessive heat and other factors can warp or glaze the steel plates (they are stacked alternating - one fiber, one steel, one fiber, one steel, etc). if you are having slipping issues (slipping meaning you give the bike gas, it revs but won't deliver power), then you should check your clutch - pull the cover, the springs, and plates and measure them with a caliper - get a manual if you are unfamiliar - its well worth the cost.
  13. nickyd

    overheating

    how so - look at a honda generator - the motor is FULLY encased in plastic - with no cooling fan - at the "right" RPM, the motion of the motor actually cools itself...or so they say. and I have not seen many generators fail.
  14. nickyd

    Clutch Plates & oil change question

    you shouldn't need any special tools - new fibers (steels if you so desire), new springs (if they are worn), a new gasket, oil and a torque wrench if you feel the need. you can get everything at your local dealer or at one of those fancy web retailers.
  15. nickyd

    What is high milage for a DR 650?

    I agree with this statement - they never come into the dealership for engine work - we've seen worn brake rotors, chain and sprockets, etc.....but not for engine probs.....and then there is mine - which leaked oil at 1200 miles - no worries though, replaced the gasket with the new updated base gasket and ported the head while it was apart. I hope to run it until it dies - and then rebuild it cheaply....and run it to death again
×